Friday, November 25, 2005

Home for the holidays

The last few days in Tirana were very hectic. As usual, the meetings I wish could take place soon after my arrival always get postponed (procrastination is exercised a lot in Europe!), and I invariably find myself scrambling to squeeze in a lot at the end of every trip.

I experienced the same situation in Italy, also last month, during my brief stay there. Contacts do not promptly return calls for appointments, and they are surprised when I inform them that I may not have extra time for our meetings, which I try to book as much as possible way ahead of my departure from the States.

The first flight out of Tirana for Milan, Italy, is at 5:45am. I was able to just rest 2 hours before heading for the airport at 3:45am. I knew it was going to be a long, long day to get home, due to Delta airline changes for the transatlantic crossing. The direct flight from Milan to JFK that usually takes 8 ½ hours was suppressed on the day of my return and I was rerouted through Atlanta, where I had to spend another 5 hours for the flight to New York, also delayed because of the Thanksgiving weekend heavy traffic. Bottom line: with the time difference from Europe, I was on the go for a full 24 hours!

Due to the above changes, my luggage was also affected. It could not be checked all the way to destination, and I had to recheck it also in Atlanta, which became the entry point in the U.S. and where I had to go through passport control. Thank goodness for the comfort of the business lounges during my lay over in Milan and Atlanta, where I could grab some food and drinks, and make some phone calls, although I felt quite sleepy!

Found New York extremely chilly and windy, but the ride into the city was swift due to the light traffic – it was midnight after all! A few good hours of sleep were finally a blessing, and by 1pm I was able to join some friends, who were expecting me for the traditional holiday dinner on Thanksgiving day.

Thursday, November 17, 2005

Work practices

I needed some electrical work done in the apartment I use and decided to call on the owner of a company that served me well a couple of years ago. He not only remembered me well (Albanians have a phenomenal memory!), but responded promptly to my call, although he is a very busy guy. Notwithstanding the ongoing energy crisis, his men are working all over the city and at all hours.

He gave a quick look at my needs and without taking any measurements or making any notes, he promised to send an electrician as soon as possible. The young guy that was dispatched, also multilingual, is a conscientious worker , ready to please me . All this implies that no real planning was done ahead for the entire job; decisions are made, by consulting the client, on the spot on “how” the job should be done, but, unfortunately, this may lead to some lack of supplies during the course of the job, as I forecasted, and ....indeed it happened!

However, this way of working seems to be a local habit: both boss and workers take what it comes with it in stride. It’s not an efficient use of time, which may create also some chaotic situations affecting the clients, but these service providers feel very busy, and they get around doing what needs to be done, very politely and usually with a smile on their faces.

I had a similar experience a week ago when I arranged for two men to come and install some heavy furniture, which I had shipped from Italy earlier in the month.

They both came, armed with electric drill and other tools, and they asked me for a picture of what the piece should look like when mounted. I tried to point them to the various pieces and the hardware that was part of it, but they were fumbling around and were not paying much attention to what I was saying, trying to figure out where to start.

After all, I was present at the dismantling, and a few minutes of attention would have avoided having to redo some installation steps that they eagerly took when they disregarded my suggestions on the matter. When they finally realized their mistake, they smiled graciously and humbly acknowledged that my input was correct. It not possible to get angry at such behavior!

Wednesday, November 09, 2005

Problem solving

The energy crisis in Albania has gotten worst in the past week. The hours of blackout have increased on a daily basis, and the times when there is lack of service have also changed. More than 6 straights hours without electricity (from early morning to early afternoon) seems now to be the norm, followed by one hour when one could cook something for a late lunch, and then everything is off again for another 2 hours, at least. Sometimes, in the evenings electricity may also go off again, unexpectedly, for shorter periods of time. The newly elected government is scrambling for solutions, but even buying extra power from neighboring countries is not easily accomplished all of a sudden. Planning, planning, planning is the key….!

After about one or two hours at the most that electricity is off, a water shortage comes into play. The pumps pushing the water up to the tanks on the roofs cannot work and everyone turns to the supply that, individually gathered in large bottles and containers, is forever present in every Albanian bathroom and kitchen.

People have to adapt somehow to all of the above, and they do. They are so used to these situations for years now, although they are slightly improving, that they shrug their heads and mumble sadly …”this is Albania”! The visitors that lodge at hotels or the casual guest that stays only briefly here, are not really affected by these predicaments because the business community, as I previously explained, have their own generators that take over and cover the needs.

I, living in a rented apartment, although in a new modern building in the city center, have to cope like everyone else. I switched to showering late at night, and I know housewives are doing the same with their laundry too. By morning one can see, on a lot of balconies, their wash, breezing in the wind that is barely perceptible in this city (see picture below). By noon the sun usually comes out from under the clouds and it shines beautifully, but, as it goes down, the warmth of midday disappears very quickly, and, being almost winter time with short days, it’s dark and quite cool by 4pm.

Yesterday, I had an additional problem that required a quick, but no easy solution here. All l of a sudden in the middle of the afternoon my house phone was unusable. I felt lost without my lifeline to the outside world!! Thanks to my cell unit I was able to contact some friends for help. Although they tried to report the problem by calling, we all agreed that, due to the late hour, nothing would be accomplished until the morning.

And so it was. We met at 9am and personally went to the main office of AlbTelecom. I know, from a previous similar experience a couple of years ago, that it may take a week to get a phone restored here. Sure enough, the ladies at the front desk, were not very helpful. First they vented that the line may have been cut for lack of payment, then, without checking anything or speaking to anyone in service, they told us that I would have to wait (as per procedure!) until Monday.

When they understood that the answer was totally unacceptable to me, they directed us to the payment office in another building. There, finally, we found a lady, who took at heart the case, confirmed that the bills were regularly paid, and personally accompanied us to a third building, at the servicemen’s office. The scene there was no better that the first one we encountered: a lady customer was being yelled at by a supervisor, while she was complaining that her phone line was not working for a week!

Fortunately for me, and the judicious presentation of my case on the part of my friend, I got the attention of an employee, who confirmed that the problem may have been caused by work performed in the area the day before, which I had suspected anyway. He called the serviceman in the field, and asked me to go back home and deal with him directly. He assured me he would be there, and he was. I was pleased that I could talk to him directly since he spoke also Italian. He excused himself for not being able to stay and deal with the problem personally since he had to attend a funeral, but he made sure that another technician came soon after and promptly brought my problem to a satisfactory solution. Lucky me!

Saturday, November 05, 2005

Book fair

Annually there is a book fair in Tirana and it’s held at the “pyramid” (see picture below). This modern structure in the newest part of the city was built as a museum dedicated to the ex dictator, Henver Hoxha, during his life time. Since then, it’s used for large exhibits, or gatherings due its enormous size, and it also has been abusively used by children, who slide down its outside walls that lend themselves to this kind of fun. After all, it’s located in the middle of one of the many city parks!

I remember being quite impressed by the shape and magnitude of this construction when, in 1996, I was a guest at a huge public Mother’s Day celebration organized in it. A beautiful show was offered by performing children of all ages, followed by some speakers. I also remember the long walk I had to take to go center stage when, unexpectedly, I was asked to be an active participant by giving my comments about the whole affair. Unbeknown to me though was the fact that the show was televised, thus I was surprised to see myself on the tube that evening while having dinner with friends.

Today, after lunching with a well known Albanian historian at an Italian restaurant, we strolled to the park and entered the pyramid to see the book fair. I was impressed by the massive amount of exhibits and stands, displaying, on three floors, an enormity of published material of all sorts and for every taste. This affair lasts a few days and it attracts people also from neighboring countries. Entire school groups were also being ushered in, while I was there, and attended a special presentation of a modern version of a republished dictionary of a famous late author, which now includes additional entries taken from ancient languages. Interesting was the debate over the pro and con of the “orientalization” of the added material.

Many were the publishing houses represented in the fair, and there were loads of people roaming around, but I did not see a lot of sales taking place. The prices are still too high here for the general Albanian public, who is, however, a very keen reader and always ready to search for new and interesting material. That’s probably why dozens of daily newspapers do a booming business instead in this city.

Thursday, November 03, 2005

A feast and a crisis

Today it’s a public holiday in Albania. It’s the day of Big Bajram that ends the month long period of Ramadan, during which time Muslims abstain from eating during the day time hours. Here, in the capital of Tirana, this feast is announced by the sound of drums that are played by a couple of men parading throughout the city, while the children, off from school, are having fun igniting fireworks here and there. Interestingly, during this stay and contrary to previous experiences of mine while in town, I no longer hear the call to prayer broadcast from the local mosque’s minaret five times daily. I’ll have to investigate why this change has taken place. In the past, the sound of these calls were a point of reference: there was no need to look at the clock to find out the time of day!

All government offices, banks, large stores, and even foreign embassies are closed in observance of today’s holiday. However, small, family type businesses, mama and papa stores are always opened every day of the year until the wee hours of the night. Even the main post office in the center of the city is always functioning until late in the evenings, Sundays included.

In the past few days, the energy crisis in this country has become more acute! The lack of rain has decreased the water supply in the dams, and thus the hydropower. Electricity has been shut off 4 to 5 hours a day, usually from 9am to 2pm. Life and work, therefore, have to be re-arranged accordingly to offset this deficiency. Today, exceptionally, the lights did not go off in the morning, probably to allow cooking for the holiday (in Albania the main meal of the day is usually at lunch, although consumed late), but, it was then cut at 2pm and did not resume until 5pm.

At home, it’s not easy to cope with lack of light when the days are shorter after the change back to standard time, but the myriad of café’s, bars, fast food places, and restaurants continue to do business with the help of large generators, usually placed outside of the premises, nearby on the street. They are automatically switched on when electricity fails, and they produce a humming noise so familiar to all that no one pays any attention to it anymore. What amazes me is how the people sitting at the tables (mostly outdoors) can cope with this nearby clatter and the polluted air that this equipment churns out. They totally ignore the circumstances, which, unfortunately, include their heavy smoking habits!

The news today is that the government is opening negotiations with neighboring countries for the purchase of additional power, which is critical especially in view of the upcoming winter, but there seems to be shortage everywhere else. This capital does not yet have an alternative solution to this shortage, such as gas production and distribution system. Only small, portable tanks can be purchased for home consumption, and a lot of people do use this facility for cooking nowadays, so that a hot meal is always assured. I am sure they had a special one today!