Saturday, December 16, 2006

Italian dining

Amidst the many appointments that I had planned, and maintained, as per daily schedule in Italy, I attended some leisurely meals at places well known for their delectable food. They were all outside of the big cities, within the general area of Piedmont, where I spent my youth, around the hills that are at the bottom of the Italian side of the Swiss Alps, which produce some of the best wines of Italy, dating back to the 13th century.  

Varied were the reasons for the dinners.  I owed one since two years ago to a local business man, who was very helpful in settling a real estate matter back then, and never charged me a fee for his service.   Another took place unexpectedly, because of the opening of a newly renovated bar, now owned by an acquaintance, who insisted that I participate while in town.   The largest dining experience, however, took place on the first Sunday of this month.  I feel honored that it was specifically planned by the local participants to coincide with my presence in town.  

The event represents an old tradition, called “Pranzo dei Coscritti”, which means “dinner for people whose birth is registered in the same year”.   The practice started almost a century ago (probably around WWI) and was restricted then only to the male population that reached the age of 18, and was then drafted into the military.  I had no idea, until a couple years ago, that this annual custom eventually extended to include women. Although it eventually departed from the military concept, it was preserved for all town people of the same age, regardless of their civil status, background or education, to enjoy a big annual luncheon affair together. The town has an organizing committee that keeps track of this population, and the day of the planned gathering initiates with attending mass, followed by a brief visit to the local cemetery, in memory of the departed ones.  


The dining usually takes place within the town, or surrounding areas, where all local specialties can be enjoyed.   These places, which may have been former farms, are now known as “agritourismo”, which, by law, are supposed to serve only home grown foods, staples, and products typical of the region.  




The affair that I have attended twice in the past couple of years starts around 1pm and lasts several hours. The rule is that if the participants are not single, the respective partners or spouses, cannot partake the luncheon, but join the group afterwards, when we usually end up at someone’s house for the rest of the day with more food, drink, and songs that stretch into the night!  

To complete the picture I should add that some of the foods served have become quite sophisticated these days, as compared to the past. The portions still are no where near what we serve in the U.S.; on the contrary, each course usually consists of a ‘taste’ of many variety of dishes for a more pleasurable dining experience, accompanied by different wines.  

It’s also interesting to notice that it’s rare to see anyone really get drunk or out of order, if when a bit tipsy.   The sipping and nibbling that spans over the entire day must have a beneficial effect, and these events turn out to be a real joy!

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