Friday, October 28, 2005

A small world

Today I met a reporter, now retired, who had interviewed me during one of my very first trips to Albania, back in 1993. She is now a writer, and still a very active woman with lots of connections everywhere. The pleasure of rediscovering each other was mutual and we wowed to spend more time together as we go along.

She came to visit me right after a session at the hospital due a problem in one of her eyes. Interestingly, when she mentioned her appointment with me to the doctor treating her, he, in amazement, declared that his father was a very good friend of mine a generation ago. Intrigued by this coincidence, I asked her his name, and to my great delight not only I recognized it, but I told her that I have an old photograph of him as a child sitting on his father’s lap.

This is surely a small world….and now we are planning a new reunion in it!

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

Tirana's newest and colorful highraisers

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Life in Tirana

During this stay in Tirana, luckily and contrary to previous visits, there has not been, so far, any interruption in water and/or electrical supply, which is part of living here. The days are wonderfully sunny and hot in the mornings, but sometimes in late afternoon the clouds appear and it may even rain throughout the night.

The streets in this capital are currently in a real shamble. Diggings are ongoing everywhere, along the main boulevards and in the new part of town, to lay down water pipes and conduits for modern communications. Some squares and older streets are full of potholes, while the construction of tall buildings, started over a decade ago, continues to grow and it seems never ending. The smog produced by the enormous and intense vehicular traffic, in addition to the dust created by the above activities, makes breathing a challenge. When, on top of all this, it rains, the end result is a real mess, with mud and water all over! But this city’s dwellers nonchalantly, but assertively, proceed in their walks, hopping from unusable sidewalks to the middle of the street, or across the stagnant water holes, or in between cars that are continuously maneuvering to avoid hitting the bad spots. They are used to being great walkers (no private cars were allowed during the 50 plus years of communist regime) and they are survivors in all sorts of situations!

Today, while conducting some business at a local, but modern, bank, I was noticing how different these services are from the US or even from other countries such as Italy, for instance. The general public is served by well trained tellers-cashiers that will take care of any need one may have, by filling up withdrawal, deposit, or transfer forms, while other customer service personnel is available for special requests, such as the printing of the latest statement, or the issuance of checkbooks. The customer has only to specify what he wants and the teller will take care of it. This bank provides, in the same fashion, services for business accounts, but in a totally different area of the bank and with a different group of customer reps. Interestingly enough, in this day and age, there are no special barriers between staff and customers, or even security entrances, such as in Italy, for example; just some guards are patrolling the floors.

For the daily needs of food in Tirana, shopping is easy and readily available everywhere. In addition to a large outdoor market that is open even into the night, there are modern indoor supermarkets, strategically located, and, here and there, throughout the city there are also small vendors of produce that line up along some smaller streets, rain or shine, and compete among themselves for price and quality of product. What they offer is cheap, and extremely fresh, and that’s why and where the locals shop daily for their meals. Today, I bought some zucchini, a bunch of carrots, a whole head of cauliflower, four golden apples, two tomatoes, two cucumbers, and 3 beutiful large clementines, all for $3.75.

Tirana today has also a wide array of fast food places, which are opened at all hours, just like some bakeries, where freshly baked bread can be found late into the evening, but there is no MacDonald or Burger King chain here. The sandwiches, just like the pizza (light and delicious), are served hot and filled in front of your eyes with the ingredients that you want. Their price may vary from one to two dollars. maximum. Some restaurants also do deliver at home, via motorcycles.

Most of the life of this city though is displayed by the cafés, which are mostly outdoors, used all year around, and always filled with customers from morning until night. The newest part of Tirana is now bustling with nightly activities, especially for the younger generations, with a wide variety of spots that usually bear foreign names, mostly American. Such is life in Tirana these days!

Sunday, October 23, 2005

Among old friends

Sometimes I don't realize how many friends I have here in Tirana. A few phone calls, and everyone is happy to hear I'm back in town, and eager to meet again.

I have to remind myself that timing here is different than in the States, or even Italy. People get up early and offices are open, non stop, from 8am to 3pm. Lunch is at home afterwards, and, after some rest, they go out again in the evening for a stroll, shopping, or to visit. Thus, dinners are usually late and even phone calls are made well into the evening.

Yesterday, I was a guest of a couple, friends of mine since childhood, at a large and pretty restaurant in the newest part of the capital. The ambience was rustic, but the place was furnished in good taste. The food at this "Tavernetta" was excellent. Most restaurants nowdays have, as a first course, a self service, 'salad buffet' with a variety of dishes that includes all sorts of grilled vegetables, burek (stuffed phyllo), fish antipasto, and yogurt (largely used here).

The meat is also very good. When I ordered a grilled steak the waiter warned me not to expect a thick American piece....and I smiled, knowing that it was quite different. The meat is very thinly cut and large, and very tasty. The portions are very satisfying, and the bread is deliciously fresh every time!

There is not a great variety of desserts, but the creme caramel is forever present, and extremely light and yummy.

Monday, October 17, 2005

Further travel

The pre-announced general strike in Italy was postponed and I was happy to be able to continue my travel without major interruptions.

In less than two hour, I flew from Milan to Tirana, Albania. It took longer to get from the city to the airport, due to the incredible traffic. Long lines of cars for miles going at a snail pace! The plane (an airbus M-80), was, as usual, always filled up. Most of the passengers are Albanians that hop over to Italy for visits, or special shopping, but there are also always many business people, speaking Italian, German, and English.

A visa to enter Albania is not required, but, upon arrival, foreigners must pay an entry fee ($12.00), after passport control. Thanks to my last name, typical Albanian, the passport officer reminds me every time that I am exonerated from this payment. In less than ½ hour I am out and, met by my usual driver, am on my way to the unfortunately dusty, and smoggy capital: Tirana.

I was here just a few months ago, still I don’t recognize some new tall buildings here and there, along the way and inside the city. The traffic is even worse than I remember, and a lot of the large boulevards are now a real mess. Large excavations are ongoing for the laying down of water pipes, telecom fiber optics, etc. and the many potholes are also a real hazard for pedestrians and vehicular drivers. Nevertheless everyone is on the move!

I notice a larger number of modern buses for public transport, and they are filled to capacity. There seems to be a better observance of traffic lights than in the earlier days, but once in a while some drivers, for expediency, are going the wrong way in one way streets that they know are not patrolled by traffic police.

I am lucky to have good facilities in a modern apartment that I rent in the city center, near the large main (Skanderbeg) square, with shops, cafés, restaurants, taxi stand, travel agencies, nearby. Large supermarkets are not so close by, but immediate needs upon arrival can be taken care of very quickly.

Friday, October 14, 2005

A different evening

Among the programmed activities during my visit in the area of Milan, one, in particular, turned out to be quite an enjoyable evening.

I was invited to be a guest at a dinner meeting at a student community about one hour ride outside of the city, where I was expected to talk about me, my family, and my current plans, which involve the small, but unfamiliar (to many) country of Albania.

The thought intrigued me because of the setup. The place was created almost 30 years ago to provide an unusual environment where young people, attending schools in the area, could learn, away from home, to be independent, manage themselves, their lives, and their studies, and cope with life in general with the support and counsel of some professionals, who had preceded them in this experience.

The comfortably modern, well equipped, building was donated by a local family to this, self created, institution, which houses co-ed students, from 13 to 20 years of age. They share the same central facilities, which include bedrooms, kitchen, lounges, a library, study and play rooms, and a large basement for extra curriculum activities. This property overlooks a beautiful lake, has a parking lot, and lots of land around, which includes a vegetable and fruit garden, maintained by the students.

The daily schedule is planned by the student community, under the guidance of some, living in, instructors. The same goes for food shopping, meals preparations, house cleaning, extra and leisure activities. Among the latter ones are field trips, cultural visits at museums, fencing and painting classes, chorus practice, and evenings, like the one I participated in, with guests from a variety of fields, from anthropologists, to artists, reporters, poets, etc.

The students’ day are long and busy ones. They arise at 6:45am and retire after a late dinner. Depending on their age, they may not participate into the night activities.

The dinner I ate, simply served family style, was healthy and delicious, including an elaborate dessert. Afterwards, we moved into a large, comfortable living room area, where the burning wood was crackling in the fireplace. There I was able to make a couple of presentations, by projecting onto a large screen, slides from a CD I prepared, and I talked for over an hour, responding also to questions raised.

It was a wonderfully behaved group, which took pictures of the event, and made me sign their guest book. During the car ride back to Milan I continued to furnish additional answers to the couple that invited me. They had attended that institution a few years ago; there they met, eventually graduated (he is a well known architect and she is the board chair of her family’s 200 year old company), and their 3 children now are going through that same experience by being part of this institution.

Finally back at my hotel by 1am, I was rethinking the event and wishing that such an interesting, and obviously successful, setup could be duplicated also elsewhere. These students are indeed lucky to get such broad learning opportunities!

Sharing experiences

 
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Tuesday, October 11, 2005

Milan

I spent a few days in Milan and, for the first time, I lodged at a hotel near the main railroad station to facilitate my daily movements out of town.

I've rediscovered this city a bit since I haven't been in it for a long time. The station is forever busy and quite chaotic. A new practical addition is a huge supermarket inside the station, which is quite convenient because it's open about 15 hrs a day. The many ticket windows, however, are all shut in the evening and one has to use automatic machines, which are not very "user friendly" since their programs are not very intuitive.

The huge arcades for which this station is known protect all sorts of beings: from humans to.... loads of pidgeons that are very assertive in search of food. Some of them fly low over people's heads (there is really no space on platforms and floors due to the huge crowds), and it's interesting to see how they perch themselves over the food counters to watch for crumbs and wasted food.

Some of the new long distance trains have a slick, modern look, but, once on board what has not changed is the stuffy air that permeates every car, although most of them are no longer permitting smoking. Italians are usually afraid of drafts and rarely want to open windows whether on cars, train or buses. Once off the trains the smokers lite their cigarette and the air in the entire station (which is huge) is unbreathable!

The local regional trains and the ones that travel northward in Europe are usually on time, while the ones that comes from Sicily or the southern tip of Italy are always late, sometimes by 2 hours!

On the side of this station, which is a mastodontic building, several blocks long, there is also the airlines bus terminal, where many coaches (belonging to competing companies) provide good and cheap service to the airports.

The 3-star hotel I stayed in was very confortable and included a buffet breakfast for all sorts of taste. The rest of my days very quite busy since I planned both activities and leisure time before I left home. I was a guest for lunch and/or dinner, practically every day either at a local restaurant or at friends' homes, and, in Italy, the food is always good no matter where.

Sunday, October 09, 2005

Paris

The CGD airport is not only huge, but immensely long, and hard to navigate!

There is no motorized transport for people that need assistance. One could order a wheel chair, as I did (since I'm temporarily suffering from tendenitis in my left ankle), but it was nowhere in site at arrival. The plane parked in the middle of the field, thus the passengers had to disembank by walking down stairs, and then hop on a bus that took almost 1/2 hour to reach the arrival terminal.

The traffic was incredible not only on the field, but all the way around the entire airport. I had to climb 2 floors to reach someone to talk to and when they took their sweet time to serve the long line of waiting customers, I decided to walk, otherwise I was risking loosing my connection for Italy. Needless to say the European flight were departing from the opposite end of the airport. So........hopping along, I finally got to the gate, and.....to my surprise, the flight number was not even posted, although it should have been time to board it!

Another flight of stairs brought me to a lounge, where finally I was able to find out that not only the flight was delayed by about 3/4 hr, but that I'd better wait at the gate, otherwise, I could not hear any broadcasted announcement.

The crowds were incredible and, of course, the few seats at every gate were all taken, while the unlucky passengers parked themselves on the floor. It was fascinating to watch the comings and goings, and the wondering looks of such a variety of passengers. The Italians were fretting all over the place, nervously asking questions, while a lot of Americans were quietly sitting down reading their pocket books and only occasionally looking up, waiting for the flight information to be displayed.

We finally boarded the Alitalia flight for Milan 1 hr later, but, once on board, we sat (with open doors) for another hour before departure. The
captain kept us informed, but the hostesses never even offered a drink during all this time. I always knew that there is a difference in service among airlines, but this trip really revealed a striking one!

Saturday, October 08, 2005

First class.....

I knew all along that traveling first class was going to be an experience, but what I din't know is that they even furnish you with a pajamas to change into for a totally confortable night on a long transatlantic haul!

First, I had a relaxing time at Air France private lounge at JFK, which is an oasis of serenity and peacefulness. A variety of seats and accomodations serve a variety of lucky passengers that use this facility. A fully stocked self service bar offers all sorts of small sandwiches and drinks, including (of course!) champagne. There is absolutely no noise of any kind in this environment and even the service personnel appears and disappears unoticeably. Never even heard a flight announcement,... "not to disturb" the present users, the sign displays.

Once on board, the fun began. I had seat no. 1 and was flanked by an American businessman who spent part of the night preparing himself for the meetings he had planned in Paris the next morning. All others, mostly French (all seats were taken!), just relaxed, drank, ate, and, soon after, changed into their PJs for an "heavenly" night, tucked under sparkling white, warm, light quilts. The setup was complete with full size white pillow and fully reclinable chair, from head to toe. In this pleasant situation, it's no wonder no one bothered to look at a movie or the news...

Another surprise was the totally individualized service for each passenger. The reserved, and quietly moving, stewards served the meals (on lovely white table cloths), produced quilts and pillows for the people ready to retire, and in the morning served breakfast only based on the behavior of each passenger, never disturbing the ones that preferred to sleep all the way to destination.

I have traveled business class before, but this was the ultimate experience! At arrival in Paris CDG airport was another story (for another time to tell)!

Monday, October 03, 2005

Here we go!

Although officially fall, the weather in NY has turned hot again. I am on the verge of my planned trip overseas, and still don’t know what to wear. The forecast in Italy, where I’ll land first, is rain and cold, while Albania, where I’ll spend the rest of my time abroad, is still enjoying 80 degrees.

Anyway, what’s important for me is not the clothing to wear, but what data or documents to take with me, based on the projects I am involved with, which require me to travel again so far away from home. I feel ready though, and eager to accomplish a few more tasks, which I’ll report on it, as I go along.

All I know now is that, for the first time, I’ll travel first class, thanks to my frequent flyers miles and the airline industry restructuring and partnerships, which necessitated some rerouting of normal travel plans. In Italy I’ll be doing different things, but quite different from what I’ve done in the past 3 years there, and I forecast the same in Albania, where there will be changes due to a newly elected government in the country and new plans for my work accommodations there.

In Italy I may have to cope with some already announced “general strikes” for a couple of days, which seem to become the norm, but, hopefully, they will not affect my flight schedules. I really don’t mind changes, but pray for minimal disruptions, and,.... confidently, I look forward to new experiences in the air and on land!