Saturday, December 20, 2008
Happy Holidays!
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Holiday rush made easy
Everyone seems to be rushing around more these days, and the pressure to meet holiday deadlines is on. The weather is not helping much since the days are so short and gloomy from the lack of sunshine, at least here in New York.
But, thanks to online facilities the chores of making contributions, exchanging news with, and greeting friends and family at this extremely busy time of the year is a breeze. Bless Internet!
The writing of holidays cards, especially when one had to address a long lists of names, used to be a time consuming task, but no more. Personally, in the past couple of years, I've reduced the handwriting to a dozen cards, only to the people that still depends on snail mail. The rest of the exchanges flies in seconds to all sorts of destinations thanks to a paid subscription that keeps track of all the contacts I maintain not only for the holidays, but also for birthdays, anniversaries, and all sorts of special occasions.
The same concept applies to my contributions, which can be scheduled and prompt me in due time to take care of them wherever I may be, and also to gifts ordering that cuts down trooping around in bad weather or traffic conditions.
I prefer to be on the giving, rather than the receiving end of these exchanges, since personally I've reached the age when there is no need for special gifts. A simple greeting would do, or a donation to the causes dear to my heart would make me happy. My close friends know what these are, but some still continue to remember me with flowers or plants, such as the one delivered by hand today, which will bloom throughout this season, but eventually will die out. Meantime, it'll keep me company right on my desk - thank you my friend!
But, thanks to online facilities the chores of making contributions, exchanging news with, and greeting friends and family at this extremely busy time of the year is a breeze. Bless Internet!
The writing of holidays cards, especially when one had to address a long lists of names, used to be a time consuming task, but no more. Personally, in the past couple of years, I've reduced the handwriting to a dozen cards, only to the people that still depends on snail mail. The rest of the exchanges flies in seconds to all sorts of destinations thanks to a paid subscription that keeps track of all the contacts I maintain not only for the holidays, but also for birthdays, anniversaries, and all sorts of special occasions.
The same concept applies to my contributions, which can be scheduled and prompt me in due time to take care of them wherever I may be, and also to gifts ordering that cuts down trooping around in bad weather or traffic conditions.
I prefer to be on the giving, rather than the receiving end of these exchanges, since personally I've reached the age when there is no need for special gifts. A simple greeting would do, or a donation to the causes dear to my heart would make me happy. My close friends know what these are, but some still continue to remember me with flowers or plants, such as the one delivered by hand today, which will bloom throughout this season, but eventually will die out. Meantime, it'll keep me company right on my desk - thank you my friend!
Sunday, December 07, 2008
On a lighter side......
some Albanians are also struggling for recognition in artistic fields.
I'm glad to see a young cousin of mine among the chosen participants to the Festival of Songs taking place in Tirana this month, and leading the winner to represent Albania at the next Eurovision Song Contest. He is a gainfully employed, handsome, soft spoken individual, and a thoughtful singer and composer. Good luck to him!!
I'm glad to see a young cousin of mine among the chosen participants to the Festival of Songs taking place in Tirana this month, and leading the winner to represent Albania at the next Eurovision Song Contest. He is a gainfully employed, handsome, soft spoken individual, and a thoughtful singer and composer. Good luck to him!!
A predictable and just reaction
on the part of Albanians familiar with their country's political antics and historical background experiences
http://www.albanianeconomy.com/news/2008/12/05/opposition-grows-to-albania-wind-project/
http://www.albanianeconomy.com/news/2008/12/05/opposition-grows-to-albania-wind-project/
Thursday, December 04, 2008
New travel experiences
Unexpected sunshine in Tirana and also a quick and smooth ride to the airport, notwithstanding the announced visit in the morning of Italy's Prime Minister Berlusconi for a round of official ceremonies and signatures that are sealing some grandiose schemes between the 2 countries. I obviously escaped the traffic snarl later on in the city center. Everything seemed to be running smoothly at Rinas airport, where loads of planes were on the ground, from a huge Austrian airbus to a variety of smaller crafts.
As the time of my departure approached there was, however, no Lufthansa plane in sight. Then the surprise posting at the gate: one hour expected delay. Lufthansa's aircraft mechanical problems on the incoming flight forced us to wait. Everyone seems resigned to have to miss the planned connections in Germany for further transport. But Lufthansa efficiency was evident in the turnaround departure, and during the flight to Munich. The crew got to work on re-routing everyone's itinerary without even being prompted by a single question!
The Munich hub was also a beehive of activities and at the gate we were received by special attendants that divide us in groups and trouped us through the security points, to other connecting flights. I, with about another two dozens (mostly) Albanians, were taken to British Airlines and flown to London, where we were switched to a Virgin Atlantic flight to Newark. Announcements were made all along, and everyone was accommodated. People destined to reach Michigan and Illinois were informed that they would spend the night in a hotel at Newark's airport before reaching their destination in the U.S. the following morning.
Newark airport functions all night, but there is an evident curtailment of services. Only 4 passport control agents on duty, handling both US citizens and foreigners together, rather then separately (with obvious delay for everyone), and not many choices of transport out of the airport during the night, except for a few offered rides by independent limo drivers. I took a chance with one (Egyptian lawyer in the State for 11 years) who whisked me home at a fair price, while telling me his entire life story, probably thinking that he was reassuring me of the seriousness of his service. Finally made it home at 2AM.
The above route changes that made me go through 6 different security points and additional airport, also provided me the opportunity to fly for the first time on Virgin Atlantic's huge new Airbus from London to the U.S.
Very attentive, young, and cheerful cabin crews that went about their chores quickly and always smiling, attended more than 310 passenger,and made sure that the night flight was as comfortable as possible for everyone on board. Even in economy they distributed individual pouches with some niceties such as they are usually offered in business class and they performed tasks never observed by me previously. Before departure, one crew member would always be around one of the 6 exit points in case of emergency, then they stashed away all blankets in pouches (to avoid tripping on cellophane) both at take off and landing, and the announcements were kept at a minimum to give the passengers the chance to relax throughout the night. On this type of craft the seats were a bit tight, but there was more leg room. This time I was lucky to have 4 seats to myself, although I could not completely lie down on them.
This return to the U.S. was a bit tiresome, and a time consuming adventure for me, but as pleasant as it could me under the circumstances. Now I must switch gears and re-adapt to life on the ground at home.
As the time of my departure approached there was, however, no Lufthansa plane in sight. Then the surprise posting at the gate: one hour expected delay. Lufthansa's aircraft mechanical problems on the incoming flight forced us to wait. Everyone seems resigned to have to miss the planned connections in Germany for further transport. But Lufthansa efficiency was evident in the turnaround departure, and during the flight to Munich. The crew got to work on re-routing everyone's itinerary without even being prompted by a single question!
The Munich hub was also a beehive of activities and at the gate we were received by special attendants that divide us in groups and trouped us through the security points, to other connecting flights. I, with about another two dozens (mostly) Albanians, were taken to British Airlines and flown to London, where we were switched to a Virgin Atlantic flight to Newark. Announcements were made all along, and everyone was accommodated. People destined to reach Michigan and Illinois were informed that they would spend the night in a hotel at Newark's airport before reaching their destination in the U.S. the following morning.
Newark airport functions all night, but there is an evident curtailment of services. Only 4 passport control agents on duty, handling both US citizens and foreigners together, rather then separately (with obvious delay for everyone), and not many choices of transport out of the airport during the night, except for a few offered rides by independent limo drivers. I took a chance with one (Egyptian lawyer in the State for 11 years) who whisked me home at a fair price, while telling me his entire life story, probably thinking that he was reassuring me of the seriousness of his service. Finally made it home at 2AM.
The above route changes that made me go through 6 different security points and additional airport, also provided me the opportunity to fly for the first time on Virgin Atlantic's huge new Airbus from London to the U.S.
Very attentive, young, and cheerful cabin crews that went about their chores quickly and always smiling, attended more than 310 passenger,and made sure that the night flight was as comfortable as possible for everyone on board. Even in economy they distributed individual pouches with some niceties such as they are usually offered in business class and they performed tasks never observed by me previously. Before departure, one crew member would always be around one of the 6 exit points in case of emergency, then they stashed away all blankets in pouches (to avoid tripping on cellophane) both at take off and landing, and the announcements were kept at a minimum to give the passengers the chance to relax throughout the night. On this type of craft the seats were a bit tight, but there was more leg room. This time I was lucky to have 4 seats to myself, although I could not completely lie down on them.
This return to the U.S. was a bit tiresome, and a time consuming adventure for me, but as pleasant as it could me under the circumstances. Now I must switch gears and re-adapt to life on the ground at home.
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Rainy days..........and unsightly lots!
Like many other capitals, Tirana is also a city of great contrasts.
When it rains here it's an awful mess, especially when you have to navigate narrow alleys!!
Noticed these (electrical or phone)lines on the ground for several days, but no one seems concerned about them - pedestrians and cars just walk over them!
Some seemingly abandoned small lots (but probably waiting for confirmation of someone's ownership), unfortunately become incredibly bad dumping grounds....!
Recycling in Tirana is still a non-practice....and the result in certain areas is horrific!
Meanwhile, the city center was re-built, the main thoroughfares were repaved, the streetlights are finally working, the number of pubs, discos, restaurants, cafes', and travel agencies are growing like mushrooms, and tonight, 96th Independence Day for Albanian is being celebrated with an Italian style "White Night". This means an all night of music around town, in the larges squares and along the grand boulevard where Tirana's 'Twin Towers' are located.
When it rains here it's an awful mess, especially when you have to navigate narrow alleys!!
Noticed these (electrical or phone)lines on the ground for several days, but no one seems concerned about them - pedestrians and cars just walk over them!
Some seemingly abandoned small lots (but probably waiting for confirmation of someone's ownership), unfortunately become incredibly bad dumping grounds....
Recycling in Tirana is still a non-practice....and the result in certain areas is horrific!
Meanwhile, the city center was re-built, the main thoroughfares were repaved, the streetlights are finally working, the number of pubs, discos, restaurants, cafes', and travel agencies are growing like mushrooms, and tonight, 96th Independence Day for Albanian is being celebrated with an Italian style "White Night". This means an all night of music around town, in the larges squares and along the grand boulevard where Tirana's 'Twin Towers' are located.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Greetings - Urime
From Tirana I send best wishes for the upcoming holiday weekend to one and all:
HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY to my American friends and family members, and
GEZUAR FESTEN E FLAMURIT / ALBANIA's INDEPENDENCE DAY to my Albanian relatives and friends wherever they are!
Drita
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Monday, November 17, 2008
Local products
Today I'm enjoying the 2 local products purchased by my friends along the road yesterday while visiting the National Park of Llogora.
The tangerines are very sweet and completely seedless. Some of them are so small, still fully developed as a fruit, the size of which is equal to a walnut that can be popped into the mouth in one scoop! Although I don't know the costs of this purchase, I do know that it's pennies compared to the famous 'clementines' that we buy in the U.S. at a very high price especially during this season.
This afternoon I tried for the first time the wild tea that grows naturally in these mountains, and my entire apartment was refreshed by the aroma emanated from its very simple preparation of placing the flowers in cold water, and then boiling them for about 5 to 7 minutes. With a bit of sugar, the result was very pleasing!
wild look....but great taste!
Today, on the way home after treating myself to a soothing pedicure, I also did some shopping at a small local supermarket, where I bought other local produce, such a crunchy cucumber (labeled "persian" in NY and costing $2.99/lb there) for which I paid only 25 cents, and my usual quantity of 'zucchini' that here was quoted a mere 70 cents. A full (1/2 kg = a bit more than 1 lb.) bag of extra fine, iodized sea salt was only 20 cents!
Another observation about food that comes to my mind while in Europe is that the quality of some processed goods, by the same well known companies also present in the U.S., is much better than in the States. I do believe that the processing of fresher local base products provides a much better taste, as proven when these staples are eaten fresh here.
Now it's time to prepare dinner....so I bid you "Bon Appetit!", or "te bufe'mire!".
The tangerines are very sweet and completely seedless. Some of them are so small, still fully developed as a fruit, the size of which is equal to a walnut that can be popped into the mouth in one scoop! Although I don't know the costs of this purchase, I do know that it's pennies compared to the famous 'clementines' that we buy in the U.S. at a very high price especially during this season.
This afternoon I tried for the first time the wild tea that grows naturally in these mountains, and my entire apartment was refreshed by the aroma emanated from its very simple preparation of placing the flowers in cold water, and then boiling them for about 5 to 7 minutes. With a bit of sugar, the result was very pleasing!
Today, on the way home after treating myself to a soothing pedicure, I also did some shopping at a small local supermarket, where I bought other local produce, such a crunchy cucumber (labeled "persian" in NY and costing $2.99/lb there) for which I paid only 25 cents, and my usual quantity of 'zucchini' that here was quoted a mere 70 cents. A full (1/2 kg = a bit more than 1 lb.) bag of extra fine, iodized sea salt was only 20 cents!
Another observation about food that comes to my mind while in Europe is that the quality of some processed goods, by the same well known companies also present in the U.S., is much better than in the States. I do believe that the processing of fresher local base products provides a much better taste, as proven when these staples are eaten fresh here.
Now it's time to prepare dinner....so I bid you "Bon Appetit!", or "te bufe'mire!".
Sunday, November 16, 2008
A long post...but a short weekend!
This weekend started a bit late on Saturday afternoon because both I and my friends, who offered to take me out of the city for some sightseeing, had other commitments in the morning.
Left Tirana around 1:30pm and a bit later we stopped in the suburbs of the town of Kavaja in a wonderful, warm and sunny day, and we had a relaxing, magnificent fish lunch at one of their favorite eateries. After a colorful cold green salad and a delicious variety of grilled hot vegetables with balsamic vinegar and assorted cheeses, the huge platter of spaghetti with seafood ('frutti di mare') disappeared very quickly.
As second course we had a perfectly cooked, and unboned "orata sotto sale". This is a typical Italian way of baking an entire fish completely covered by coarse salt. When the fish is done, the salt is then discarded with the bones and the skin and the fish has an heavenly taste, just the way it is with nothing else on it! Good Albanian chefs have picked up these recipes while undergoing training and getting cooking experiences in Italy, before opening up their own places back home.
We then proceeded toward the southern port of Vlora (3rd largest city in Albania), which we reached at 6:30pm, when is already dark at this time of the year. The just renovated hotel that my friends usually patronize is located right near the water, at the end of a long city boulevard, flanked by palm trees and many newly built high rises with stores, restaurants, cafes, and businesses. The hotel owner greeted us personally, speaking to me in perfect English, and ordered the clerk to give me a room with a front view.
Then we took a night ride along the coast, and finally around 9pm, back at the hotel, the owner treated all of us to dinner for free!! Another huge meal, this time with meat as a second course. Tired, but quite relaxed (after all I didn't do the driving!) I didn't feel like watching tv (notwithstanding the large choice of Albanian, English, German, Italian channels) and let myself go to sleep in the very spacious and comfortable double bed!
In the morning when I opened the curtains, I realized that the hotel was facing the most famous historical house in Albania. I recognized it since I had taken a picture of it a couple of years earlier. Here on November 28th, 1912, the Albanian flag was raised for the first time in honor of the creation of the Albanian state.
From the balcony of my room, I enjoyed the view of the Karaburum peninsula, where during WWII lots of secret operations were conducted in its many underground caves, and I watched two early ferry boats unload their cargo that included dozens of trucks and trailers that then rolled into a large yard for customs inspection.
Albania is lucky to face 2 different seas along its entire length. In the north the Adriatic and from Vlora downward the Ionian.
After a buffet breakfast on the terraced, top floor of the hotel, we left Vlora and continued our trip southward toward the mountains and the area named Llogara, which is a national park.
As we rode upward, we stopped for cappuccino at an Italian business, perched, on the side of the mountain, right over the water. It's a small, modern hotel, restaurant, and cafe' that overlooks its own tiny beach.
The weather was threatening rain, but we luckily only experienced a sprinkle or two, when we reached the top that afforded a beautiful view of the pristine, well known beaches of Dhermi way below...
In the middle of this park, we made another stop at an attractive tourist village used during the summer for its coolness, and even during the winter for its pretty scenery in the snow. Here we were surprised to find a large group of deers grazing on the ground of this resort that consists of a modern hotel and a number of separate cabins, with all sorts of facilities, including indoor swimming pool and fitness center.
The deers here, obviously exposed to people for quite a while, are fed by guests and approach visitors with boldness, seeking food.
Inside the main building a fire was roaring in the middle of a large dining area, which, however, was empty since this is an off season time. We only took a drink here and then started our descend to return home.
After saying goodbye to the deers, we proceeded down the mountains, and shopped along the road for wonderful, sweet tangerines (called 'mandarins'), and the special tea with a very strong aroma that grows naturally around this area, also known for its production of honey.
Midway back to Tirana, the weather changed for the better and the sun started to shine again over the bay of Vlora, where we stopped for lunch at a new, and very elegant restaurant.
Here we were joined by another couple of friends, who drove in from Tirana, and are also partial to fish. They ordered an array of dishes that included 'bruschetta', fish 'carpaccio' with pomegranate seeds, assorted cheeses and vegetables, fish soup and a huge 'sarago' with roasted potatoes, plus dessert and freshly cut fruits.
As the day was coming to an end, we rode back to Tirana, tired, but wishing that the time off our daily chores could have lasted a bit longer.....
Left Tirana around 1:30pm and a bit later we stopped in the suburbs of the town of Kavaja in a wonderful, warm and sunny day, and we had a relaxing, magnificent fish lunch at one of their favorite eateries. After a colorful cold green salad and a delicious variety of grilled hot vegetables with balsamic vinegar and assorted cheeses, the huge platter of spaghetti with seafood ('frutti di mare') disappeared very quickly.
As second course we had a perfectly cooked, and unboned "orata sotto sale". This is a typical Italian way of baking an entire fish completely covered by coarse salt. When the fish is done, the salt is then discarded with the bones and the skin and the fish has an heavenly taste, just the way it is with nothing else on it! Good Albanian chefs have picked up these recipes while undergoing training and getting cooking experiences in Italy, before opening up their own places back home.
We then proceeded toward the southern port of Vlora (3rd largest city in Albania), which we reached at 6:30pm, when is already dark at this time of the year. The just renovated hotel that my friends usually patronize is located right near the water, at the end of a long city boulevard, flanked by palm trees and many newly built high rises with stores, restaurants, cafes, and businesses. The hotel owner greeted us personally, speaking to me in perfect English, and ordered the clerk to give me a room with a front view.
Then we took a night ride along the coast, and finally around 9pm, back at the hotel, the owner treated all of us to dinner for free!! Another huge meal, this time with meat as a second course. Tired, but quite relaxed (after all I didn't do the driving!) I didn't feel like watching tv (notwithstanding the large choice of Albanian, English, German, Italian channels) and let myself go to sleep in the very spacious and comfortable double bed!
In the morning when I opened the curtains, I realized that the hotel was facing the most famous historical house in Albania. I recognized it since I had taken a picture of it a couple of years earlier. Here on November 28th, 1912, the Albanian flag was raised for the first time in honor of the creation of the Albanian state.
From the balcony of my room, I enjoyed the view of the Karaburum peninsula, where during WWII lots of secret operations were conducted in its many underground caves, and I watched two early ferry boats unload their cargo that included dozens of trucks and trailers that then rolled into a large yard for customs inspection.
Albania is lucky to face 2 different seas along its entire length. In the north the Adriatic and from Vlora downward the Ionian.
After a buffet breakfast on the terraced, top floor of the hotel, we left Vlora and continued our trip southward toward the mountains and the area named Llogara, which is a national park.
As we rode upward, we stopped for cappuccino at an Italian business, perched, on the side of the mountain, right over the water. It's a small, modern hotel, restaurant, and cafe' that overlooks its own tiny beach.
The weather was threatening rain, but we luckily only experienced a sprinkle or two, when we reached the top that afforded a beautiful view of the pristine, well known beaches of Dhermi way below...
In the middle of this park, we made another stop at an attractive tourist village used during the summer for its coolness, and even during the winter for its pretty scenery in the snow. Here we were surprised to find a large group of deers grazing on the ground of this resort that consists of a modern hotel and a number of separate cabins, with all sorts of facilities, including indoor swimming pool and fitness center.
The deers here, obviously exposed to people for quite a while, are fed by guests and approach visitors with boldness, seeking food.
Inside the main building a fire was roaring in the middle of a large dining area, which, however, was empty since this is an off season time. We only took a drink here and then started our descend to return home.
After saying goodbye to the deers, we proceeded down the mountains, and shopped along the road for wonderful, sweet tangerines (called 'mandarins'), and the special tea with a very strong aroma that grows naturally around this area, also known for its production of honey.
Midway back to Tirana, the weather changed for the better and the sun started to shine again over the bay of Vlora, where we stopped for lunch at a new, and very elegant restaurant.
Here we were joined by another couple of friends, who drove in from Tirana, and are also partial to fish. They ordered an array of dishes that included 'bruschetta', fish 'carpaccio' with pomegranate seeds, assorted cheeses and vegetables, fish soup and a huge 'sarago' with roasted potatoes, plus dessert and freshly cut fruits.
As the day was coming to an end, we rode back to Tirana, tired, but wishing that the time off our daily chores could have lasted a bit longer.....
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Old surprise?
How can a surprise be old? The surprise I received today is about old stuff, actually about old family pictures just recently discovered!
I have been a user of Albania's National Archives since 1993 and I've had the pleasure of viewing more than once the huge amount of files and documents about my family, which were secretly preserved, with many others, throughout several decades, by the ex communist regime.
Everything that was confiscated during those dark years, when personal properties were expropriated and people were imprisoned or sent to concentration camps, was never destroyed, but actually cataloged. Archival materials were accumulated and still exist in several locations reporting to different branches of government, however. Currently lots of work is undergoing, for a variety of reasons, to re-organize these voluminous collections that not only provide an historical background of Albania, but become an important tool for current day needs by both the state and its citizens, especially involving the still thorny and debated property issues.
Anyway, the surprise that was presented to me today relates to the recent unearthing of hundreds of negatives and related prints about my early days in Tirana and about my immediate family then. This morning I was overwhelmed by the number of them, although I know that my uncle had the hobby of photography and in those days he was well equipped to perform the related development at home.
The majority of the negatives, of the old fashion type on glass, are well preserved, and so are most prints in black and white.
My mother and I
[prints on top - glass negatives below]
Today I was offered the possibility of having the pictures of my choice scanned and mounted on a CD, which should be ready in a couple of days. The surprise made my day, and provided me with quite a few ideas of how I'm going to use this newly discovered treasure of mine!
I have been a user of Albania's National Archives since 1993 and I've had the pleasure of viewing more than once the huge amount of files and documents about my family, which were secretly preserved, with many others, throughout several decades, by the ex communist regime.
Everything that was confiscated during those dark years, when personal properties were expropriated and people were imprisoned or sent to concentration camps, was never destroyed, but actually cataloged. Archival materials were accumulated and still exist in several locations reporting to different branches of government, however. Currently lots of work is undergoing, for a variety of reasons, to re-organize these voluminous collections that not only provide an historical background of Albania, but become an important tool for current day needs by both the state and its citizens, especially involving the still thorny and debated property issues.
Anyway, the surprise that was presented to me today relates to the recent unearthing of hundreds of negatives and related prints about my early days in Tirana and about my immediate family then. This morning I was overwhelmed by the number of them, although I know that my uncle had the hobby of photography and in those days he was well equipped to perform the related development at home.
The majority of the negatives, of the old fashion type on glass, are well preserved, and so are most prints in black and white.
Today I was offered the possibility of having the pictures of my choice scanned and mounted on a CD, which should be ready in a couple of days. The surprise made my day, and provided me with quite a few ideas of how I'm going to use this newly discovered treasure of mine!
Friday, November 07, 2008
Local shopping & yummy goods!
While in Tirana I do my groceries shopping in several places; some at the large supermarkets that have nothing to envy from the American ones, when I have the opportunity of riding in a car, and other locally, within a short walking distance from my apartment building.
Since my last trip here in the spring I found both places have improved in a variety of ways, from expansion of the area covered, to a more appealing display of items, to the quality of foods being sold. The only ones that remain the same are the street sellers that line up along some roads the vegetables and fruits produced daily by the local farmers. The men, usually middle aged, stand and prop up a variety of produce on temporary stands, while the women, usually older and dressed in long black clothing with white kerchiefs on their head, squat at the edge of the sidewalk, and display their fewer offerings by spreading them out on plastic sheets and/or newspapers directly on the pavement.
While the large markets that now are popping out all over the city within huge shopping malls offer an assortment of products from all over the world, the local store carry mostly local goods, but they certainly don't lack anything one may need on a daily basis, and, are obviously much cheaper.
One of the local vegetables that I love when I come to Tirana are the giant string beans that I've never seen in New York. They come in 2 varieties: yellow or green, about 20cm (or more) long (~ 3/4 foot), and almost one inch wide, thick and tender, and they can be cooked in less than 15 minutes. With a bit of tomato sauce they are really very tasty!
Today I decided to patronize a small, local, pretty store that sells only sweets and that I'd noticed before. It offers an array of candies, cookies, pastries, and cakes, and I was impressed by the use of plastic gloves on the part of the sales person, when she served me. What a variety... and only the problem of choice! I bought a small supply of a few items, and I wasn't disappointed in any! The Albanian almond cookies 'amareti" (in Italian "amaretti") are a delight. They are soft, light, and a bit chewy: but real yummy! This store has definitely gained a new customer in town.
BTW, did I ever mention that any seller here, whether a small shop owner, or a large market server, is always extremely courteous and goes out of his/her way to take care of a prospective customer, whomever he or she might be? No need for great advertising in these small enclaves: their greetings are also very enticing and a smart way to attract clientèle. Too bad that the typical European custom that pays individual attention to a shopper is a practice that can no longer be afforded in large cosmopolitan American cities.
Since my last trip here in the spring I found both places have improved in a variety of ways, from expansion of the area covered, to a more appealing display of items, to the quality of foods being sold. The only ones that remain the same are the street sellers that line up along some roads the vegetables and fruits produced daily by the local farmers. The men, usually middle aged, stand and prop up a variety of produce on temporary stands, while the women, usually older and dressed in long black clothing with white kerchiefs on their head, squat at the edge of the sidewalk, and display their fewer offerings by spreading them out on plastic sheets and/or newspapers directly on the pavement.
While the large markets that now are popping out all over the city within huge shopping malls offer an assortment of products from all over the world, the local store carry mostly local goods, but they certainly don't lack anything one may need on a daily basis, and, are obviously much cheaper.
One of the local vegetables that I love when I come to Tirana are the giant string beans that I've never seen in New York. They come in 2 varieties: yellow or green, about 20cm (or more) long (~ 3/4 foot), and almost one inch wide, thick and tender, and they can be cooked in less than 15 minutes. With a bit of tomato sauce they are really very tasty!
Today I decided to patronize a small, local, pretty store that sells only sweets and that I'd noticed before. It offers an array of candies, cookies, pastries, and cakes, and I was impressed by the use of plastic gloves on the part of the sales person, when she served me. What a variety... and only the problem of choice! I bought a small supply of a few items, and I wasn't disappointed in any! The Albanian almond cookies 'amareti" (in Italian "amaretti") are a delight. They are soft, light, and a bit chewy: but real yummy! This store has definitely gained a new customer in town.
BTW, did I ever mention that any seller here, whether a small shop owner, or a large market server, is always extremely courteous and goes out of his/her way to take care of a prospective customer, whomever he or she might be? No need for great advertising in these small enclaves: their greetings are also very enticing and a smart way to attract clientèle. Too bad that the typical European custom that pays individual attention to a shopper is a practice that can no longer be afforded in large cosmopolitan American cities.
Tuesday, November 04, 2008
November Days
The first 2 days of this month are traditional holidays in most Catholic countries worldwide. November 1, is the official All Saints Day, which honors all saints who attained Beatific Vision, followed by All Soul's Day on November 2, honoring the "Day of the Dead", dedicated to the departed.
Although the celebrations may vary from country to country depending on their customs, generally speaking. at this time, Catholics go all the way out to clean, and give a face-lift to the burial grounds belonging to their families, and all living family members make a special visit to their local cemeteries, even if they have to travel long distances.
While in Albania at this time, I was able to visit Tirana's cemetery, where two of my family members are buried. This visit occurred, however, only today due to other commitments that I had on Sunday, and, being a week day, it turned out to be a much more intimate and quiet experience. This graveyard is the property of the State since it was created in the early 1960's when the communist government decided to transfer here the remains from older grounds that were used instead to build state housing for the expanding population of this capital.
Upon my return to Albania in 1993 I learned that, while the communist dictatorship made the decision, the actual transfer of the remains was left to be accomplished by the family member or relatives, who dug up the bones of their dear ones and transported them on their bicycles to the new site. These were the days when no religious practices or private cars were allowed, and everyone was expected to volunteer work for the state. The remains were collected by hand and reburied directly into the ground or in plastic bags, if available.
When I paid my first visit in 1993 there were only very small markers to identify the lots, and no marble was available to setup tombstones. Since then the new cemetery has quadrupled in size, most of tombs have been setup with all sorts of sculptures, stones of different colors, and even railings and fences. The road that leads into the cemetery is now lined up with businesses that provide all sorts of services to the visitors, including enormous assortments of fake or fresh flowers, and even bottles of water.
During my visit today, I was thinking that I would need a whole week to visit all my family burial grounds, on both paternal and maternal sides, since they are located in 5 different countries, on 2 continents (New York, Italy, Montenegro, Albania, and Turkey).
Solicited by some relatives, about a year ago I took care of the transfer of my family plot in Montenegro from the original place, which has since been abandoned by the local church that it belonged to, to another small graveyard, up in the mountains closer to the place where my paternal grandfather lived. The original stone with the engraved names of one of my uncles and two aunts was in perfect condition, and it was mounted on top of a more modern marble structure, pictured below.
Today's visit to the cemetery in Tirana happened in full sunshine, with gorgeous blue skies, and hot weather for this time of the year (80 degrees F), while, heavy rains and floods are plaguing Italy where the the 90th anniversary of WWI is being celebrated.
Although the celebrations may vary from country to country depending on their customs, generally speaking. at this time, Catholics go all the way out to clean, and give a face-lift to the burial grounds belonging to their families, and all living family members make a special visit to their local cemeteries, even if they have to travel long distances.
While in Albania at this time, I was able to visit Tirana's cemetery, where two of my family members are buried. This visit occurred, however, only today due to other commitments that I had on Sunday, and, being a week day, it turned out to be a much more intimate and quiet experience. This graveyard is the property of the State since it was created in the early 1960's when the communist government decided to transfer here the remains from older grounds that were used instead to build state housing for the expanding population of this capital.
Upon my return to Albania in 1993 I learned that, while the communist dictatorship made the decision, the actual transfer of the remains was left to be accomplished by the family member or relatives, who dug up the bones of their dear ones and transported them on their bicycles to the new site. These were the days when no religious practices or private cars were allowed, and everyone was expected to volunteer work for the state. The remains were collected by hand and reburied directly into the ground or in plastic bags, if available.
When I paid my first visit in 1993 there were only very small markers to identify the lots, and no marble was available to setup tombstones. Since then the new cemetery has quadrupled in size, most of tombs have been setup with all sorts of sculptures, stones of different colors, and even railings and fences. The road that leads into the cemetery is now lined up with businesses that provide all sorts of services to the visitors, including enormous assortments of fake or fresh flowers, and even bottles of water.
During my visit today, I was thinking that I would need a whole week to visit all my family burial grounds, on both paternal and maternal sides, since they are located in 5 different countries, on 2 continents (New York, Italy, Montenegro, Albania, and Turkey).
Solicited by some relatives, about a year ago I took care of the transfer of my family plot in Montenegro from the original place, which has since been abandoned by the local church that it belonged to, to another small graveyard, up in the mountains closer to the place where my paternal grandfather lived. The original stone with the engraved names of one of my uncles and two aunts was in perfect condition, and it was mounted on top of a more modern marble structure, pictured below.
Today's visit to the cemetery in Tirana happened in full sunshine, with gorgeous blue skies, and hot weather for this time of the year (80 degrees F), while, heavy rains and floods are plaguing Italy where the the 90th anniversary of WWI is being celebrated.
Monday, November 03, 2008
Daily life in Tirana
My stay in Tirana is, as usual, quite comfortable. The local friends come visiting as soon as they know of my arrival, while I get rid of the jet lag, stock up on local staples, cook up a storm, and smooth out my daily routine in Albania.
As my close friends know, I'm here to continue the voluntary work I've set out to do during my retirement, and this trip is no different. Meetings need to be set up and attended to, related documentation has to be taken care of, and follow ups on ongoing affairs must be kept up. Taking advantage of the time at my disposal here is of the utmost importance. I think I'm doing a pretty good job keeping at bay and balancing out everything I have to do, but regret the slow pace, and inefficient handling of matters that goes on here.
After decades of very specific, and detailed system work in the U.S., modesty aside, I'm a good planner, and I try to maintain the same working habits here, but that's not easy. Europeans way of life and work customs are very different. In order to accomplish something in the old continent, one must switch to the more easy going ways and yield to their systems. Albania is very similar to Italy in many ways, and I've become a bit of an expert at this after working in both countries for several years.
Yesterday, Sunday, is a typical example. In the morning I had planned to visit the local cemetery since it was the annual remembrance day of the Dead, and in the afternoon I had 2 working appointments. At 9am, instead, one of the people that I was going to see in the afternoon asked to switch the appointment to 10am, and I agreed. During that meeting I received an unexpected phone call from another party that wanted to see me around noon, and, again, I agreed. So my original plans went out the window, but, eventually, I was able to accomplish a few things.
Daily life here is much better that it used to be just a few years ago, and now in Tirana proper electricity and water are available at all times, with a few exceptions. So far, in my 10 days here, I never lost electricity, and my computer happily keeps humming along from morning 'till night, but water supply disappears by noon time almost every day, for a couple of hours. I do believe that this is due to the poorly planned capacity for the entire building that probably did not take into consideration modern needs, such as washing machines, present in most apartments, and used daily by Albanian housewives. One has just to look outside the windows to see everywhere freshly washed clothes hanging to dry in the sun every day of the week.
The weather so far has been unusually warm during the day, sometimes even hot (like today's 80 degrees), with no rain, while the evenings are cool and refreshing; thus, I find myself having to change clothes almost 3 times daily.
Haven't taken many pictures so far, but intend to do so soon, so keep tuned in!
As my close friends know, I'm here to continue the voluntary work I've set out to do during my retirement, and this trip is no different. Meetings need to be set up and attended to, related documentation has to be taken care of, and follow ups on ongoing affairs must be kept up. Taking advantage of the time at my disposal here is of the utmost importance. I think I'm doing a pretty good job keeping at bay and balancing out everything I have to do, but regret the slow pace, and inefficient handling of matters that goes on here.
After decades of very specific, and detailed system work in the U.S., modesty aside, I'm a good planner, and I try to maintain the same working habits here, but that's not easy. Europeans way of life and work customs are very different. In order to accomplish something in the old continent, one must switch to the more easy going ways and yield to their systems. Albania is very similar to Italy in many ways, and I've become a bit of an expert at this after working in both countries for several years.
Yesterday, Sunday, is a typical example. In the morning I had planned to visit the local cemetery since it was the annual remembrance day of the Dead, and in the afternoon I had 2 working appointments. At 9am, instead, one of the people that I was going to see in the afternoon asked to switch the appointment to 10am, and I agreed. During that meeting I received an unexpected phone call from another party that wanted to see me around noon, and, again, I agreed. So my original plans went out the window, but, eventually, I was able to accomplish a few things.
Daily life here is much better that it used to be just a few years ago, and now in Tirana proper electricity and water are available at all times, with a few exceptions. So far, in my 10 days here, I never lost electricity, and my computer happily keeps humming along from morning 'till night, but water supply disappears by noon time almost every day, for a couple of hours. I do believe that this is due to the poorly planned capacity for the entire building that probably did not take into consideration modern needs, such as washing machines, present in most apartments, and used daily by Albanian housewives. One has just to look outside the windows to see everywhere freshly washed clothes hanging to dry in the sun every day of the week.
The weather so far has been unusually warm during the day, sometimes even hot (like today's 80 degrees), with no rain, while the evenings are cool and refreshing; thus, I find myself having to change clothes almost 3 times daily.
Haven't taken many pictures so far, but intend to do so soon, so keep tuned in!
Saturday, November 01, 2008
Tourism and politics......
seem to be an interesting duo, as per today's New York Times article : "Despite Crisis, Wealthy Russians Are Buying Up Coastal Montenegro"
Sunday, October 26, 2008
NATO entry protocol for Albania & Croatia
From left to right the Ambassadors of Croatia (K. Grabar-Kitarovic) and Albania (Dr. Aleksander Sallabanda) at the signing ceremony by Pres. Bush.
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Assorted news selection
After 3 days on Albanian soil I'm still experiencing jet lag, and my meal and sleep hours are not yet straightened out, but I feel fine and comfortable in my apartment, where I've already received several visits from local friends.
Thanks to my ADSL service I've continuous access, through Internet, to all sorts of news, especially when I am awake during ungodly hours. For my American friends, who might be interested, I'm sharing here a variety of current goings-on in his part of the world, ranging from entertainment to business, and even politics.
- from BalkanInsight.com -- a film production is taking place about Byron in Albania;
- from EBDR (European Bank for Reconstruction and Development) -- expansion of Albanian shopping mall centers;
- from the Jerusalem Post -- Albania: a new Israeli destination;
- from Defense News -- US Defense Officials Visit the Balkans;
- from Associated Press -- further steps of Albania & Croatia into NATO;
- from BalkanInsight.com -- Albanian Judges sacked for corruption;
- from Washington Post -- different Albanian views on U.S. election.
Thanks to my ADSL service I've continuous access, through Internet, to all sorts of news, especially when I am awake during ungodly hours. For my American friends, who might be interested, I'm sharing here a variety of current goings-on in his part of the world, ranging from entertainment to business, and even politics.
- from BalkanInsight.com -- a film production is taking place about Byron in Albania;
- from EBDR (European Bank for Reconstruction and Development) -- expansion of Albanian shopping mall centers;
- from the Jerusalem Post -- Albania: a new Israeli destination;
- from Defense News -- US Defense Officials Visit the Balkans;
- from Associated Press -- further steps of Albania & Croatia into NATO;
- from BalkanInsight.com -- Albanian Judges sacked for corruption;
- from Washington Post -- different Albanian views on U.S. election.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Travel to Tirana
Left from JFK airport in NY via Lufthansa, which, with its usual efficient service, left the gate in perfect time, but, unfortunately, had to wait for 1 1/2 hr its turn on the tarmac for take off due to the normally congested traffic of this airport.
I was happy to travel on a huge Airbus (A340-600), which allows a bit more leg room than the usually cramped 767s, and we arrived in Munich way ahead of time. The service on board was excellent, but, during the night, I found the on board temperature rather uncomfortably hot for my taste. This did not allow me to sleep at all, but, thanks to the incredible number and variety of programs available at the individual seat monitors, I was able to pass the time watching 3 beautiful documentaries from Discovery Channel, and a funny movie.
While being whisked from one gate to the next one in the immense Munich airport, a heavy morning fog was setting in, and this delayed arrivals and departures for almost 2 hours all over the place.
While at the gate to connect with the flight to Tirana, I had time to observe much more German work efficiency in a variety of ways. First of all the gate was manned full time, continuously, and the staff patiently answered all queries and even handled special situations.
One of them had to do with a disabled elderly woman, on a wheel chair, who spoke only Turkish, and was traveling alone from Atlanta to Ismir. She was left alone by her handler at the Tirana gate, to wait for her connection to Turkey due to depart only 4 hours later from the same spot. While a couple of travelers unsuccessfully tried to talk to her, assuming she spoke Albanian, I managed to communicate with her with gestures and numbers until the desk staff intervened with a translator. They even offered to take her somewhere else for some refreshments, which she kindly refused.
At a point in time there were more than 30 planes in the area waiting for permission to land, and some had to be rerouted instead to Nuremberg. Finally the small craft scheduled for Tirana was able to land and we were speedily whisked to it. I realized how huge this airport is when it took more than 15 minutes of traveling by bus to reach the far away spot where the plane we needed to board had just landed. Quickly the 100 available seats were all filled and in 1 and 1/2 hour we landed in sunny and hot Rinas airport of Tirana.
Met my driver in no time, and after a brief stop at a huge supermarket (Euro-Max) that is on the way into the city, where he suggested I may want to shop for my immediate necessities, we reached my apartment within 1/2 hour. I shopped there many times previously, but, now I almost did not recognize the place. It's located inside an immense shopping mall and it has now doubled in size!
At the apartment, I was happy to find that all utilities functioned properly, and within a few hours here I am also online!
I was happy to travel on a huge Airbus (A340-600), which allows a bit more leg room than the usually cramped 767s, and we arrived in Munich way ahead of time. The service on board was excellent, but, during the night, I found the on board temperature rather uncomfortably hot for my taste. This did not allow me to sleep at all, but, thanks to the incredible number and variety of programs available at the individual seat monitors, I was able to pass the time watching 3 beautiful documentaries from Discovery Channel, and a funny movie.
While being whisked from one gate to the next one in the immense Munich airport, a heavy morning fog was setting in, and this delayed arrivals and departures for almost 2 hours all over the place.
While at the gate to connect with the flight to Tirana, I had time to observe much more German work efficiency in a variety of ways. First of all the gate was manned full time, continuously, and the staff patiently answered all queries and even handled special situations.
One of them had to do with a disabled elderly woman, on a wheel chair, who spoke only Turkish, and was traveling alone from Atlanta to Ismir. She was left alone by her handler at the Tirana gate, to wait for her connection to Turkey due to depart only 4 hours later from the same spot. While a couple of travelers unsuccessfully tried to talk to her, assuming she spoke Albanian, I managed to communicate with her with gestures and numbers until the desk staff intervened with a translator. They even offered to take her somewhere else for some refreshments, which she kindly refused.
At a point in time there were more than 30 planes in the area waiting for permission to land, and some had to be rerouted instead to Nuremberg. Finally the small craft scheduled for Tirana was able to land and we were speedily whisked to it. I realized how huge this airport is when it took more than 15 minutes of traveling by bus to reach the far away spot where the plane we needed to board had just landed. Quickly the 100 available seats were all filled and in 1 and 1/2 hour we landed in sunny and hot Rinas airport of Tirana.
Met my driver in no time, and after a brief stop at a huge supermarket (Euro-Max) that is on the way into the city, where he suggested I may want to shop for my immediate necessities, we reached my apartment within 1/2 hour. I shopped there many times previously, but, now I almost did not recognize the place. It's located inside an immense shopping mall and it has now doubled in size!
At the apartment, I was happy to find that all utilities functioned properly, and within a few hours here I am also online!
Monday, October 20, 2008
Preparations
Great weather everywhere these days.....it's pretty nippy here in New York where the fall is in full swing, and the city is gearing up to celebrate Halloween.
Meanwhile, I'm finishing up packing for my trip to Tirana, where, I know, midday can still be pretty hot, and some light clothing can be useful.
Albania, here I come!
Meanwhile, I'm finishing up packing for my trip to Tirana, where, I know, midday can still be pretty hot, and some light clothing can be useful.
Albania, here I come!
Monday, October 13, 2008
Potpourri
Although we’re in the midst of a global financial crisis, there is no lack of a variety of all sorts of other worldwide news – some somber and some frivolous, as usual.
Today in New York we’re celebrating Columbus Day with the usual festive, long parade along Fifth Avenue, while closely watching how Wall Street and the other world markets are reacting to the bail out plans decided during this past weekend. While some euphoria seems to explode about a positive turn around on one side, on the other, political tensions are weighing in heavily due to the uncertain outcome of the upcoming presidential elections on Nov. 4th.
Some newspapers seems to recycle again some old and trite subjects, such as the story of Albania’s “sworn virgins” that keeps resurfacing from time to time; just recently it reappeared on the Associated Press, and from there it spread to CBS News, the Washington Post, the NY Times, the Baltimore Sun, the Salt Lake Tribune, the Chicago Sun, MSNBC, National Geographic (video), etc.
Other papers are treating more serious matters, such as the still fragile relationship of Kosovo with some of its neighbors (although Macedonia and Montenegro just added themselves to the number of states recognizing its independence), or the corruption that still reigns in Albania. The Economist of this week, in one page, touches upon both subjects:
-- Kosovo: Getting on with big brother
-- Albania: The Final Mistery
A propos of variety of news, some cover a range of very contrasting subjects, to say the least. While some Italian “ ultra` (right extremists)” rioted, this past weekend, outside a soccer stadium in Bulgaria, singing fascist hymn in the name of “Il Duce”, in Tirana the widow and children of the ex communists dictator, Enver Hoxha, were being interviewed on the anniversary of his 100th birthday.
Online, I also read that in Tirana there are new urban plans that will probably disrupt the already chaotic life there, such as the re-development of the huge Skanderbeg square, while other avenues are re-paved. Among the so called ‘hopeful’ news I cannot help noticing that the giant Real Estate conglomerate of Century 21 has also recently established itself officially in Tirana. This is in addition to the several other similar English agencies that have been already advertising, for quite a while, loads of properties all over Albania. However, beware! it’s not all gold what’s being described.
Among all these news there is also the one about my next trip to Tirana, which will take place next week. Amidst the preparations I’m making sure that my ‘absentee ballot’ vote is properly filed here before departure. I shall resurface again by the middle of next week, if all goes well…. So, keep tuned in!
Today in New York we’re celebrating Columbus Day with the usual festive, long parade along Fifth Avenue, while closely watching how Wall Street and the other world markets are reacting to the bail out plans decided during this past weekend. While some euphoria seems to explode about a positive turn around on one side, on the other, political tensions are weighing in heavily due to the uncertain outcome of the upcoming presidential elections on Nov. 4th.
Some newspapers seems to recycle again some old and trite subjects, such as the story of Albania’s “sworn virgins” that keeps resurfacing from time to time; just recently it reappeared on the Associated Press, and from there it spread to CBS News, the Washington Post, the NY Times, the Baltimore Sun, the Salt Lake Tribune, the Chicago Sun, MSNBC, National Geographic (video), etc.
Other papers are treating more serious matters, such as the still fragile relationship of Kosovo with some of its neighbors (although Macedonia and Montenegro just added themselves to the number of states recognizing its independence), or the corruption that still reigns in Albania. The Economist of this week, in one page, touches upon both subjects:
-- Kosovo: Getting on with big brother
-- Albania: The Final Mistery
A propos of variety of news, some cover a range of very contrasting subjects, to say the least. While some Italian “ ultra` (right extremists)” rioted, this past weekend, outside a soccer stadium in Bulgaria, singing fascist hymn in the name of “Il Duce”, in Tirana the widow and children of the ex communists dictator, Enver Hoxha, were being interviewed on the anniversary of his 100th birthday.
Online, I also read that in Tirana there are new urban plans that will probably disrupt the already chaotic life there, such as the re-development of the huge Skanderbeg square, while other avenues are re-paved. Among the so called ‘hopeful’ news I cannot help noticing that the giant Real Estate conglomerate of Century 21 has also recently established itself officially in Tirana. This is in addition to the several other similar English agencies that have been already advertising, for quite a while, loads of properties all over Albania. However, beware! it’s not all gold what’s being described.
Among all these news there is also the one about my next trip to Tirana, which will take place next week. Amidst the preparations I’m making sure that my ‘absentee ballot’ vote is properly filed here before departure. I shall resurface again by the middle of next week, if all goes well…. So, keep tuned in!
Friday, October 03, 2008
Wake Albanian style
This week I attended, for the second time in my life, a wake in the Bronx, where Albanians are one of the largest ethnic groups residing in this borough of New York City.
I thought I knew what to expect since I had participated in a similar occurrence in 1996, in the same area. In both instances the departed were distant relatives of mine on the paternal side, whom I met less than a dozen years ago, when I began to collect a large amount of data for my family tree.
Since then, I learned a lot about traditional customs of Albanian life, because I was not exposed to it since I was five years old. Due to WWII I grew up in totally different environments, and I did not discover existing paternal relationships until recent years. Thus, whenever I get involved in large gatherings of Albanians here in the U.S., I never cease to be surprised by new, and very interesting experiences, when I become exposed to, and more familiar with, historical details, especially about my ancestors. Albanians are endowed with extraordinary memory, and are masters in oral history, which they faithfully transmit from one generation to another within their family units!
This week, therefore, when I went to the funeral parlor, I knew I had to express my condolences to the relatives that line up at the entrance, in single file, men first, followed by women (with black head scarves), all positioned according to the level of relationship with the deceased. They sit on chairs, also lined up behind them, and stand up as visitors approach, and are quietly announced by a couple of young family members that stand guard at the door.
I also knew that there would be relatives not from this area. It is customary that for any important family happening, relatives of all sorts travel even long distances to attend whatever function has been planned, whether it's a wedding, a birth, or a funeral. That's why, also in this case, I was able to see again relatives I met overseas, and others that reside in other U.S. cities.
A new experience this time, however, was seeing two people that, in separate sessions,lasting about 15 minutes each, chanted, in rhyme format, and all from memory, dozens of names of living and dead relatives. The woman, who was hired, was prepped for this service by some family members just minutes before the performance, while the man was a relative knowledgeable about the past deaths in the family.
Contrary to what I have seen at other funeral parlors recently, where people usually roam around, chat and visit in a pretty loud voice, this wake was quite structured, and extremely low key, except for the momentarily loud sobbing that the women could not refrain from, during the chanting. Throughout the entire time, the younger women made the rounds, offering glasses of water and paper handkerchiefs.
This is what happened at this wake, in an American funeral parlor. The wake I participated in 1996 instead, took place in a hired hall, 2 months after the actual funeral in Montenegro, obviously to accommodate the very large number of relatives living in the U.S. There I let a family member lead me through the line up of relatives, and I discovered later on that I was the subject of special treatment when it came to sitting down. Men and women were clustered at separate tables, and I, out of deference, was offered a seat between the 2 groups! Then, I was totally surrounded by the younger generations, who, while taking turns to serve everyone with food, raki, and cigarettes, were eager to get to know me, and I.... learned from them how to connect the lines in the enlarged family tree!! It was an extraordinary and unforgettable experience.
I thought I knew what to expect since I had participated in a similar occurrence in 1996, in the same area. In both instances the departed were distant relatives of mine on the paternal side, whom I met less than a dozen years ago, when I began to collect a large amount of data for my family tree.
Since then, I learned a lot about traditional customs of Albanian life, because I was not exposed to it since I was five years old. Due to WWII I grew up in totally different environments, and I did not discover existing paternal relationships until recent years. Thus, whenever I get involved in large gatherings of Albanians here in the U.S., I never cease to be surprised by new, and very interesting experiences, when I become exposed to, and more familiar with, historical details, especially about my ancestors. Albanians are endowed with extraordinary memory, and are masters in oral history, which they faithfully transmit from one generation to another within their family units!
This week, therefore, when I went to the funeral parlor, I knew I had to express my condolences to the relatives that line up at the entrance, in single file, men first, followed by women (with black head scarves), all positioned according to the level of relationship with the deceased. They sit on chairs, also lined up behind them, and stand up as visitors approach, and are quietly announced by a couple of young family members that stand guard at the door.
I also knew that there would be relatives not from this area. It is customary that for any important family happening, relatives of all sorts travel even long distances to attend whatever function has been planned, whether it's a wedding, a birth, or a funeral. That's why, also in this case, I was able to see again relatives I met overseas, and others that reside in other U.S. cities.
A new experience this time, however, was seeing two people that, in separate sessions,lasting about 15 minutes each, chanted, in rhyme format, and all from memory, dozens of names of living and dead relatives. The woman, who was hired, was prepped for this service by some family members just minutes before the performance, while the man was a relative knowledgeable about the past deaths in the family.
Contrary to what I have seen at other funeral parlors recently, where people usually roam around, chat and visit in a pretty loud voice, this wake was quite structured, and extremely low key, except for the momentarily loud sobbing that the women could not refrain from, during the chanting. Throughout the entire time, the younger women made the rounds, offering glasses of water and paper handkerchiefs.
This is what happened at this wake, in an American funeral parlor. The wake I participated in 1996 instead, took place in a hired hall, 2 months after the actual funeral in Montenegro, obviously to accommodate the very large number of relatives living in the U.S. There I let a family member lead me through the line up of relatives, and I discovered later on that I was the subject of special treatment when it came to sitting down. Men and women were clustered at separate tables, and I, out of deference, was offered a seat between the 2 groups! Then, I was totally surrounded by the younger generations, who, while taking turns to serve everyone with food, raki, and cigarettes, were eager to get to know me, and I.... learned from them how to connect the lines in the enlarged family tree!! It was an extraordinary and unforgettable experience.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Shala Valley
An excellent article about this remote area of Albania in the Los Angeles Times of yesterday.
Details about the project bearing this title can be found at the site of Millsaps College, of Jackson, Mississippi. It includes beautiful photography.
Details about the project bearing this title can be found at the site of Millsaps College, of Jackson, Mississippi. It includes beautiful photography.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Social gatherings
On Friday I attended the 12th dinner of NAAC (National Albanian American Council) that takes place annually in New York City and honors personalities who support the Albanian cause in Washington, DC.
This year honorees were Congressman E. Engel, Ranking Member on the House International Relations Subcommittee on the Western Hemisphere, and Ambassador F. Wisner, a career diplomat that has served the U.S. Government in a number of positions around the world. The former has represented in Washington, for years, the large Albanian community of the Bronx area of N.Y., while the latter was instrumental in bringing about, to a successful conclusion, the negotiations that lead to this year's declared independence by Kosova. The theme of this year's dinner was two fold: to extend best wishes to the people of Kosova for achieving independence, and to congratulate the people of Albania for receiving and accepting the official invitation to become part of NATO.
Special guest again, like last year, was Albania's Minister of Foreign Affairs, L. Basha, in town to attend the opening of the 63rd General Assembly at the United Nations.
Another, less official and more private, social gathering was happening in Italy today, but, regretfully, I could not attend it. It's also an annual affair, but organized by people in the same village that are born within the same year, who, regardless of background, education, or position, get together for a big dinner and festivities that last all day, just to celebrate their age.
This custom started a long time ago as an observance of becoming adults, when the boys were called into service, and ended up including also women in later years. This type of gathering became a tradition, when, as mature individuals, they decided to enjoy a day together reminiscing about childhood in the same school, and sharing joyful memories of that time.
I was happy to attend a couple of years ago, when I was visiting the little village where I grew up during WWII, and included also some pictures of the event in my blog of December 2006 (Italian time). I was invited again this year, but, due to other commitments, I could not participate. However, this morning, to my great surprise, I received an unexpected, but joyous, long phone call from this year's attendees, who took turns in wishing me well while regretting that I could not be with them. I joined them in spirit while their raised their wine glasses!!
(BTW, the wine produced in that village is well known and even mentioned in Italian literature since the 1300's)
This year honorees were Congressman E. Engel, Ranking Member on the House International Relations Subcommittee on the Western Hemisphere, and Ambassador F. Wisner, a career diplomat that has served the U.S. Government in a number of positions around the world. The former has represented in Washington, for years, the large Albanian community of the Bronx area of N.Y., while the latter was instrumental in bringing about, to a successful conclusion, the negotiations that lead to this year's declared independence by Kosova. The theme of this year's dinner was two fold: to extend best wishes to the people of Kosova for achieving independence, and to congratulate the people of Albania for receiving and accepting the official invitation to become part of NATO.
Special guest again, like last year, was Albania's Minister of Foreign Affairs, L. Basha, in town to attend the opening of the 63rd General Assembly at the United Nations.
Another, less official and more private, social gathering was happening in Italy today, but, regretfully, I could not attend it. It's also an annual affair, but organized by people in the same village that are born within the same year, who, regardless of background, education, or position, get together for a big dinner and festivities that last all day, just to celebrate their age.
This custom started a long time ago as an observance of becoming adults, when the boys were called into service, and ended up including also women in later years. This type of gathering became a tradition, when, as mature individuals, they decided to enjoy a day together reminiscing about childhood in the same school, and sharing joyful memories of that time.
I was happy to attend a couple of years ago, when I was visiting the little village where I grew up during WWII, and included also some pictures of the event in my blog of December 2006 (Italian time). I was invited again this year, but, due to other commitments, I could not participate. However, this morning, to my great surprise, I received an unexpected, but joyous, long phone call from this year's attendees, who took turns in wishing me well while regretting that I could not be with them. I joined them in spirit while their raised their wine glasses!!
(BTW, the wine produced in that village is well known and even mentioned in Italian literature since the 1300's)
Friday, September 05, 2008
News clips about Albania
There is never a lack of daily news about Albania these days, and it ranges in variety: from increased tourism to port development, from amplified commercial facilities to newly established diplomatic training....and including a Guinness world record.
It's anyone's reading choice, but what's important is to note that there is steady, albeit slow, progress and evolution in the country.
It's anyone's reading choice, but what's important is to note that there is steady, albeit slow, progress and evolution in the country.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Seasonal changes
This is the long Labor Day weekend in the U.S., which is usually considered the summer's official end, and many are the changes taking place at this time.
Vacations for most come to an end, and students return to school; the hot temperatures begin to subside a bit, and the hurricane season is in full swing; summer sales are displayed everywhere, and the shops are gearing up to show the fall collections.
While "Gustav" is blowing its way into the Gulf of Mexico at 150 miles per hour, and the south-west coast of the U.S. is being evacuated by millions of people, the New York scene is the calmest ever. The residential streets are not trafficked, the movement of people everywhere is at its slowest pace, and even the large and tall apartment buildings seem empty.
I enjoy peace and quiet in my apartment all year around, but during this time I have the feeling that the world has come to a complete stop: there is total silence everywhere! This helps greatly my work at home that has kept me busy throughout these past few months.
In another week, the outdoor pool that is made available during the summer at the sports facility I belong to, will be closing. The aqua aerobic classes I try to participate in regularly will move indoor again, in the Olympic size complex -- the only one of this size in this city.
Although my work now is strictly on a volunteer basis, even when I was fully employed I always took my vacation after Labor Day. That's why now I feel that I could really use a chunk of time off that must, however, take place somewhere else, to be able to get the benefits of R(est) and R(elaxation).
For now, though, goodbye sunscreen, and sun glasses....it's actually time to plan the usual fall travel to Albania, with more meetings and projects on the agenda!
Vacations for most come to an end, and students return to school; the hot temperatures begin to subside a bit, and the hurricane season is in full swing; summer sales are displayed everywhere, and the shops are gearing up to show the fall collections.
While "Gustav" is blowing its way into the Gulf of Mexico at 150 miles per hour, and the south-west coast of the U.S. is being evacuated by millions of people, the New York scene is the calmest ever. The residential streets are not trafficked, the movement of people everywhere is at its slowest pace, and even the large and tall apartment buildings seem empty.
I enjoy peace and quiet in my apartment all year around, but during this time I have the feeling that the world has come to a complete stop: there is total silence everywhere! This helps greatly my work at home that has kept me busy throughout these past few months.
In another week, the outdoor pool that is made available during the summer at the sports facility I belong to, will be closing. The aqua aerobic classes I try to participate in regularly will move indoor again, in the Olympic size complex -- the only one of this size in this city.
Although my work now is strictly on a volunteer basis, even when I was fully employed I always took my vacation after Labor Day. That's why now I feel that I could really use a chunk of time off that must, however, take place somewhere else, to be able to get the benefits of R(est) and R(elaxation).
For now, though, goodbye sunscreen, and sun glasses....it's actually time to plan the usual fall travel to Albania, with more meetings and projects on the agenda!
Saturday, August 16, 2008
New Albanian ventures
Another interesting project looks like is being undertaken in Albania, along its southern coast, and more specifically in the 'riviera' area of Saranda and Butrint.
Underwater archaeological findings have brought to light the wreck of a cargo ship dating back to the 3rd century BC. Had heard briefly about this in the news recently, but now, thanks to the blog of an Assistant Professor of Trinity University (Texas), who is actively participating in this activity, we are privileged to have more on site details.
I also always enjoy very much reading about the first impressions of foreigners that are now traveling to, and through Albania for a variety of reasons. Some of their observations, although based on brief visits, are 'right on target', such as the one abstracted from the last posting of the above subject professor:
"It is always a challenge to figure out how to work in a foreign country. The convolutions of recent history in Albania and the resultant diverse, often conflicting, never clearly expressed layers of officialdom and bureaucracy make this a difficult place in which to figure out how to get things done."
Underwater archaeological findings have brought to light the wreck of a cargo ship dating back to the 3rd century BC. Had heard briefly about this in the news recently, but now, thanks to the blog of an Assistant Professor of Trinity University (Texas), who is actively participating in this activity, we are privileged to have more on site details.
I also always enjoy very much reading about the first impressions of foreigners that are now traveling to, and through Albania for a variety of reasons. Some of their observations, although based on brief visits, are 'right on target', such as the one abstracted from the last posting of the above subject professor:
"It is always a challenge to figure out how to work in a foreign country. The convolutions of recent history in Albania and the resultant diverse, often conflicting, never clearly expressed layers of officialdom and bureaucracy make this a difficult place in which to figure out how to get things done."
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Italian documentary about Albania's coast
It was a pleasant surprise today to watch a documentary produced by Italian television “Linea Blu” about Albania’s 474 km long coast, spanning from the Adriatic to the Ionian seas. This successful program by RAI TV has explored on a weekly basis, for the past 15 years, the coastal areas of Italy, above and below the water level. This time, apparently, it decided to step a bit further to the east, and to visit also the country with which Italy has had, and continues to have traditional relationships since centuries ago. Albania is, in fact, the closest nation, not bordering with Italy, but directly across from its heel, with only 60 miles separating the bay of Vlora from the port of Brindisi.
Although this program was originally aired in Italy on June 21st, the timing seems quite appropriate in view also of the very recent European gathering “Paris Summit for the Mediterranean” that took place about a week ago in France. Albania was also represented at this assembly of 43 nations that, on July 13th, issued an interesting “declaration” with ambitious plans ahead (available in PDF format when clicking on the above title).
Obviously the Italian television crew and reporter had access to some areas not normally visited by the occasional tourist thanks to the Italian armed units and Coast Guards still stationed in Albania, such as on the island of Saseno in the bay of Vlora, which is still considered today a military zone. This area has always been a strategic point of control of the Otranto Canal, and here many ships sank over the years, and now are being explored by scuba divers. It is also very close and overlooking the entire Karaburun peninsula, which, with its numerous large caves and underwater passages, has been the stage of many sorties and the base of covert operations during WWII in Albania, so beautifully described by Peter Lucas in his book about the OSS.
Interesting were the interviews with local fishermen, local authorities like the mayor of Saranda, the Italian Ambassador, and even the clip taken from an earlier reportage about Mussolini’s daughter. On March 14, 1941 she was traveling as a ‘volunteer nurse’ and was rescued when the Italian ship that she was traveling on was sunk in the Otranto Canal. The current underwater research about this ship pointed out that this was originally a luxury vessel transformed into a military Red Cross transport, when it was torpedoed by the British. Amazingly, most of its furnishings are clearly identifiable and still well preserved.
This is the first time that “Linea Blu” has been filming along the Albanian coast and underwater, and it covered a lot of ground in the one hour long program, but it did not spend much time talking about the local cuisine, which is what they usually do in Italy toward the end of the program. The display of local dishes was a good, but a brief one, especially when the conversation began to delve into less known delicacies such as “burek”…...
Much is still to be done for tourism in Albania, but see how inviting can be its southern 'riviera', for instance. As I've indicated elsewhere in this blog, foreigners are flocking into the country by air, by car, by boat, and their number continues to increase because there is much, still unknown there, to be explored and enjoyed.
Although this program was originally aired in Italy on June 21st, the timing seems quite appropriate in view also of the very recent European gathering “Paris Summit for the Mediterranean” that took place about a week ago in France. Albania was also represented at this assembly of 43 nations that, on July 13th, issued an interesting “declaration” with ambitious plans ahead (available in PDF format when clicking on the above title).
Obviously the Italian television crew and reporter had access to some areas not normally visited by the occasional tourist thanks to the Italian armed units and Coast Guards still stationed in Albania, such as on the island of Saseno in the bay of Vlora, which is still considered today a military zone. This area has always been a strategic point of control of the Otranto Canal, and here many ships sank over the years, and now are being explored by scuba divers. It is also very close and overlooking the entire Karaburun peninsula, which, with its numerous large caves and underwater passages, has been the stage of many sorties and the base of covert operations during WWII in Albania, so beautifully described by Peter Lucas in his book about the OSS.
Interesting were the interviews with local fishermen, local authorities like the mayor of Saranda, the Italian Ambassador, and even the clip taken from an earlier reportage about Mussolini’s daughter. On March 14, 1941 she was traveling as a ‘volunteer nurse’ and was rescued when the Italian ship that she was traveling on was sunk in the Otranto Canal. The current underwater research about this ship pointed out that this was originally a luxury vessel transformed into a military Red Cross transport, when it was torpedoed by the British. Amazingly, most of its furnishings are clearly identifiable and still well preserved.
This is the first time that “Linea Blu” has been filming along the Albanian coast and underwater, and it covered a lot of ground in the one hour long program, but it did not spend much time talking about the local cuisine, which is what they usually do in Italy toward the end of the program. The display of local dishes was a good, but a brief one, especially when the conversation began to delve into less known delicacies such as “burek”…...
Much is still to be done for tourism in Albania, but see how inviting can be its southern 'riviera', for instance. As I've indicated elsewhere in this blog, foreigners are flocking into the country by air, by car, by boat, and their number continues to increase because there is much, still unknown there, to be explored and enjoyed.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Albanian tourism
Although Albania is coming up in the world of tourism, it is a great surprise to find out, thanks to this blog, that it's still lacking an important facility such as marinas for pleasure crafts.
In May 2007, I pointed out here my amazement when I read that large cruise lines were beginning to stop along the southern shore, known as the Albanian riviera. Apparently, small vessels and private yachts,however, cannot be accommodated anywhere along the Albanian coast to date, contrary to Montenegro. When I toured that coast last April I thought for a while in fact of being back in Sardinia's "Costa Smeralda", especially in the beautiful bay of Kotor. An enormous number of beautiful yachts were completely lining the piers, from where the entrance to the old walled city was just a few feet away.
Albania has nice beaches and accommodations all along its coast from north to south, which are now getting crowded. I am told, in fact, that the inland Kosovars are becoming good customers, since they are now shunning Montenegro that has not yet officially recognized their independence.
In May 2007, I pointed out here my amazement when I read that large cruise lines were beginning to stop along the southern shore, known as the Albanian riviera. Apparently, small vessels and private yachts,however, cannot be accommodated anywhere along the Albanian coast to date, contrary to Montenegro. When I toured that coast last April I thought for a while in fact of being back in Sardinia's "Costa Smeralda", especially in the beautiful bay of Kotor. An enormous number of beautiful yachts were completely lining the piers, from where the entrance to the old walled city was just a few feet away.
Albania has nice beaches and accommodations all along its coast from north to south, which are now getting crowded. I am told, in fact, that the inland Kosovars are becoming good customers, since they are now shunning Montenegro that has not yet officially recognized their independence.
Friday, July 04, 2008
Columbia University campus
The other day I went back to Columbia University for a brief visit to renew my id card, and decided to take some pictures of my old stumping grounds. Here, during my tenure of 22 years, I have successfully accomplished a variety of large and challenging projects, and solved a myriad of complex and problematic situations, which provided stimulating and engrossing experiences.
The original main campus, confined between two large city avenues (Amsterdan & Broadway), spans several blocks on its south-north axis.
Amsterdam avenue looking southward
Main campus entrance on Broadway
The Rotunda
Alma Mater
This campus can be an oasis of peace, especially during the summer months. I can remember, however, the hard times of the late 60's during the students demonstrations, as well as the joyful celebrations during every May, when thousand of people converge on campus to participate in the commencement exercises for the students' graduation.
a quiet corner....
....and 'The Penseur'
Notwithstanding the hot day, a few students were around, probably to attend summer courses, and I enjoyed a leisure walk, which brought back quite a few memories.
the Columbia Lion, an emblem also in its sports
a site gate along Broadway
The campus now is a mixture of classical and modern buildings, and scattered here and there are quite a few modern sculptures.
the interdenominational chapel
quiet, cool, and beautiful, but difficult to capture on film!
from Amsterdam avenue, the back view of the Chapel
The original main campus, confined between two large city avenues (Amsterdan & Broadway), spans several blocks on its south-north axis.
This campus can be an oasis of peace, especially during the summer months. I can remember, however, the hard times of the late 60's during the students demonstrations, as well as the joyful celebrations during every May, when thousand of people converge on campus to participate in the commencement exercises for the students' graduation.
Notwithstanding the hot day, a few students were around, probably to attend summer courses, and I enjoyed a leisure walk, which brought back quite a few memories.
The campus now is a mixture of classical and modern buildings, and scattered here and there are quite a few modern sculptures.
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