the Cavenago castle has an old (125 meter deep) water well, which is no longer used
Posted by Picasa

the Cavenago's inside courtyard, where drinks are served before dining
Posted by Picasa

The medieval castle "Cavenago", dating back to the 1300's, now an "agriturismo"
Posted by Picasa

Relaxing breaks

It was a humid and hot summer evening on Saturday, July 16th, when I rode with a cousin to the club of Castelconturbia, where she and her family are members. (see pictures below)

This has been a private golf club since the early 1900's and it counts no less than 500 members that include many foreigners. It is located in the midst of the rolling countryside at about 30 km from Malpensa (Milan) airport. The dinners can be consumed either indoors or on a large terrace overlooking the greens, with self-service for appetizers and desserts. The food I have enjoyed here many times is consistently excellent and quite varied; the conversation always lively, although frivolous, which makes the atmosphere very relaxing.

The following Sunday, July 24th, I was the host to some other cousins that live in another northern area of the Piedmont region, but came to visit and gave me a hand in my chores. They choose to dine in an old castle on top of the hills of the village, so that their daughter could listen to my recounting some of the stories of this place.

This medieval castle is named 'Cavenago" from the family that owned it (see pictures above). Its last member was a Count that was put to an horrible death by his army in 1307. Naked and covered with honey he was left to die in a cage, consumed by insects and other animals.

As a child I used to visit this place quite frequently, not only because I lived in the village then (it was during WWII), but also because part of it, owned by relatives, was used it for the wine harvest for which the village is known. All the villages in this area are flanked by hills, which sit at the feet of the Italian Alps (on their northern part is Switzerland) and produce some of the best wines of Italy. The one I lived in as a child is named: 'Ghemme' , and it's the birthplace of a famous architect, Antonelli, who, among other structures, designed the cupola of the Duomo of Turin that bears his name.

Today part of the Cavenago castle is privately owned by a local family and has become an "agriturismo" (place where you can eat local specialties, the ingredients of which are suppoed to be all locally grown). The meals are served family style, and there is only one common menu -- one only has to choose the type of wine to go with it. Reservations are a must, and everyone is expected to be seated at the same time, after a cocktail is served in the outdoor garden area. The food is interesting and very satisfying, and, after dining, everyone usually lingers to visit the surroundings areas.

These were the only 2 relaxing breaks I allowed myself during this trip.

Part of the golf course as seen from the club's balcony
Posted by Picasa

The golf club

Castaleconturbia Golf Club
Posted by Picasa

Accident

Two days after my arrival in Italy, on an early Saturday morning, I was awaken by a tremedous noise, right underneath my first floor bedroom window, which was kept open due to the hot weather. The view that appeared below when I peeked out looked dreadful (see pictures below).

Two black cars (an Alfa and a Mini), a few feet apart, were completely smashed against my house: a young man. unhurt and standing with a cell phone in hand, was asking the other driver (a woman, still sitting in her small car and moaning) whether he should call an ambulance! In a couple of minutes I was dressed and with camera in hand I descended onto the street to see what I could do. The scene that followed was beyond my belief! The woman was pretty badly hurt. She was a local nurse, going to work at 6am. Her mother witnessed the accident while walking her dog, and came to her assistance immediately. The man, in his 30's, looked sober although he confessed loudly that he did not see the intersection (my house is on a corner of a 4 way crossing). A few neighbors also attracted by the big bang, came running and tried to call the local police, which, I was informed however, being a weekend, was not available. The response came from another larger town, 3/4 of an hour away, and, only after the ambulance arrived, a police car appeared with 2 'carabinieri' in it. One of them never got out of the car, while his colleague was gathering information and making notes. The latter even asked the father of the victim (who meakly obliged!) to help him take measurements, while his partner was sitting and watching the entire scene..... I took some pictures and took notes that I offered to the victim's family. The man who caused the accident called his father, who also arrived on the scene. After about 1 1/2 hour a pickup truck also arrived and expeditiously loaded the 2 cars and even cleaned up part of the debris, which littered 2 streets for many feet. In addition to the shattered glass there was a lot of spilled oil and gasoline, which made walking quite treacherous. Some of the local people even hinted that I should clean the street because the town would not do this except on a designated day during the week. This was certainly an eye-opening experience for me about the Italian state services, and a heck of a way to start my work visit in Italy!!

The car that caused the accident
Posted by Picasa

The mini smashed against my house
Posted by Picasa

Travel woe

Now that I am home and still recuperating my strength, I cannot believe what I lived through during my recent trip to Italy.

My presence was required due to negotiations for the sale of a house I co-owned in northern Italy. The prospected buyer was in a hurry to close on the deal because he wanted to re-adapt the street floor during the summer months so that his business (a restaurant) could get into full swing in the fall. So I was forced to make quick plans and leave New York right after July 4th.

The weather has been consistently hot and humid also in Italy, but I survived it somehow. The house is a 4 story building with thick walls and no elevator. My task was to completely empty its content before the closing and I made it, but I cannot remember perspiring so much, while drinking more than 4 liters of water a day, and trying to get a few hours of sleep, here and there, only with the help of a table top fan.

The work, both mental and physical, was totally exhausting and lasted one full month! I had to deal with furniture and furnishings, linens, apparel, books, papers, documents, and photographs that belonged to 3 generations. The house has been in the maternal side of my family since 1894. I had spent time in it during my youth and I relived many memories while clearing it up. It was hard to give it up, emotionally, but a necessity.

During this stay in Italy I declined several of the invitations I usually receive from friends and relatives alike, so that I could meet the planned deadlines, but I had the chance to enjoy a couple of dinners in good company that I'll describe later on.

The 4 story house I worked in has an open terrace on the top, with a beautiful view
Posted by Picasa

Updates

It seems ages since I've been able to get back to this blog, but during my stay in Italy I was busy working in an environment that didn't have connection facilities. Only a couple of times I was able to use a terminal in the Public Library of the small village where I was and for a brief period of time. This access was available only for a couple of hours a day, and I had to compete with some kids, waiting on line, to get to one of the two terminals at this place. I was, thus, only able to reply to urgent email and make electronic payments of my bills.

Now, I am home after an horrific trip back, which rerouted me from Amsterdam to Paris, and switched me from one airline to another 3 times before returning to NY!! I am all in one piece, but totally exhausted. The 20 hours that took me to get home was just the 'frosting' on the month long, non stop, work stay in northern Italy. More details will follow, soon.