Friday, April 30, 2010

Daily life in Tirana

Some of my American friends write to me privately that they enjoy my blog and some wish they could experience the way of living in Tirana. I agree with them that it’s a nice, overall break to be away from home for a while, and be able to compare customs of other countries.

Based on my own familiarity also with Italy, where I lived for several years, European daily life in general is very, very different from the one in the USA, and in particular from the one in NYC. Once in Europe, I find great similarities in mentality and customs between Albanians and Italians, especially the ones in the Southern part of booth.

Americans are generally pampered when abroad whether they are traveling for pleasure or business. Their time spent in a foreign country, however, must adapt somehow to the customs of the place, and this may add some drawbacks to the pleasure of experiencing new ways of living. There are also big differences if the traveling and visiting is for pleasure or for business, if the stay is short or long, and if the exposure to new places comes in close contact with the real local life of the visited country.

I feel fortunate that, here in Tirana, where I’ve being traveling frequently to for the past 17 years, I have met quite a diversity of local people for a variety of reasons, have coped with many types of individuals, and, in the process, have made many, wonderful friends, and have become very close to their families. I have seen their children grow up, shared their concerns for them, heard of their aspirations for the future, participated in some of their sorrowful and joyful moments, and continue to enjoy their company and loyalty.

In the past couple of years some Italian friends wanted to experience Albania and came to Tirana for the first time while I was here. They all had a good time visiting the city and its surrounding areas, and vowed to return. Next month, two of my Italian cousins will also come with a friend of theirs, and I hope to bring them down south so we can all enjoy together the area known as the Albanian riviera.

Nothing is lacking in Albania today: from pharmaceutical products to agricultural ones, from brand name clothing to furniture, from locally made stuff to imported one, you name it! In addition to the variety of individually owned and mama and papa stores, six huge shopping malls and parking lots are now fully operational 12 hours daily in the capital’s suburbs and are accessed by the general population also via free bus service from the city center. Some chain stores are open 24 hrs a day, also in the city of Durres, and probably elsewhere. Wherever you go shopping you’re greeted with a smile and, even if you don’t speak a word of Albanian, the servers are eager to please in any way shape or form.

For me the biggest difference in way of living here centers in the work hours, as well as the rest and meal times.

Most business is conducted from 7:30/8am to 3pm with no lunch interruption, especially in state offices. Some people may take an espresso in mid morning or have a quick ‘byrek’ on the go. By 4pm the chaotic traffic of Tirana subsides a bit, because most people are back home to consume their big meal of the day, and then they rest for a couple of hours. The late afternoon stroll is quite fashionable, as it used to be when I was a student in Italy; visiting can take place way into the evening, and the lighter, supper meal can go on even around 10pm.

These schedules can create havoc in someone like me, used to a pretty regular, and different eating plan, difficult to modify after a certain age. I’ve learned, however, to be pretty flexible since the discomfort is compensated at times by pleasant surprises and the networking these disruptions create may turn out to be quite enjoyable.

Perfect example is yesterday afternoon. I was planning to work a bit later since I had a few interruptions earlier, when two friends (husband and wife) dropped by the office and literally forced me to quit! They wanted to drive me to Durres, where they are furnishing a new apartment by the seashore, to experience the sunset from their balconies there. Although brief, this was a lovely and relaxing break!

All my plans for the rest of the day went down the drain, but we ended up not only doing the above, but also loaded the car with some purchases during some leisure shopping in one of the big malls, and, eventually, at 9:30pm had a delicious fish dinner in Durres, and returned to Tirana by 11:30pm.

For me this kind of life may seem disorganized and wasteful at times, but for my friends life is better lived this way with all its unpredictable and unplanned situations. They all work very hard at their own businesses, but they intersperse moments of relaxation as the day goes by. They may not look constantly at the clock and may even arrive late at some meetings, but, this is taken for granted here. They will not try to anticipate unforeseen situations, but will cope with any that may arise, and eventually manage to solve them.

The successful businessmen here will not trade their life with the ones of comparable people in the States, and, some of the ones I know who have also visited the U.S. are adamant in affirming that they would not like to work and play the way we do across the Atlantic.

That’s the beauty in this world: variety is the spice of life, and to each one his own!

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Southern Albania

Peter Mandel's article, "A Taste of Albania", that appeared on the StarTribune.com of Minneapolis yesterday whets my appetite too to visit the Southern part of Albania, known as the Albanian riviera.

One of these days I hope to make it down there, but not for a few hours only. It takes at least a couple of days to get a feel for this part of the country that offers, I am told, both beautiful seashore and mountain sites, as well as bountiful agricultural products, in addition to the historical antiquities.

Way back in the early 1930's, my paternal uncle, whose hobbies were archaeology and photography, did a detailed study of the ancient ruins of Butrint, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. This report, rich of pictures taken and developed by him, is saved in Albania's National Archives, and I should go and dig it out before visiting this site.

on this stage modern performances are taking place now during the summer

I had several occasions to make a quick trip there, but decided to go when I'd have a bit more time at my disposal.

Traveling by car from Tirana now, when most of the roads have been fixed and repaired, it takes about six hours, thus, an overnight stay is a must for me. At my age, and used as I am having to meet deadline most of the time, I don't want to look at the clock while touring around; I like to fully enjoy sightseeing at my own pace. Hope that day comes soon.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

New acquaintance and site

The mother of a business partner of mine that I just met today is a jolly and peppy 81 year old lady with beautiful white hair. She greeted me in Italian when I entered her apartment on the 2nd floor of a large establishment that includes more than one business of her family.

She comes herself from a well to do family that includes a laywer and several medical doctors. One of her 3 sons is a pharmacist that also owns a medical tests laboratory, right on the premises. She surprised me when she told me of having been, as a teenager, a student of my paternal uncle, whom she remembers very well.

Another son has built a kindergarten, nursery school on the 2nd, 3rd, and top floor of their property, which is quite large. He gave me a tour of it, and it was a delight to see the various rooms, where children (from 3 to 7 years of age) are taught, fed, and cared for Monday thru Friday, from 7am to 5pm, and on Saturday from 7am to 1pm.


The whole place is set up with great care and taste. It's bright, colorful, and very practical, from the building entrance, all the way up the floors, with pretty large paintings in vivid colors on the walls everywhere.


It's furnished with a complete kitchen that feeds the children 3 times a day, bathrooms fit for babies, and even a couple of rooms for napping.



Drawings and children's work are displayed everywhere.


On the top floor there is a huge, fenced in terrace, and a roomy playroom surrounded by large windows on 3 sides.


This was an interesting and pleasurable afternoon and visit.

Saturday tasks

This is the first Saturday since I am in Tirana that I could dedicate mostly to domestic needs.

My cleaning lady came yesterday, and she left me a spotlesss apartment, as usual, at the end of the four hours it takes her to do all chores, at a price that in NY would cover only one hour! I offered her a bit more for a bathroom rug she took home to wash last week, but she firmly and politely declined and added a big smile!

Speaking of rugs, I might add that a local laundry specialty service also picked up, cleaned, and re-delivered back within a week, a large woolen rug I own, and didn't use for a long time, for a mere $12.00!

Yesterday, I also had 2 small venetian blinds and one large roller shade installed in my new apartment, and the total labor cost amounted to $9.00. After I chose the materials and colors in their beautiful store, the company went out of its way to have one of their workers that spoke Italian come to do the measuring and the installation so that I would feel more comfortable. Since the apartment cleaning was going on at the same time, everything was done quickly, efficiently and no trace of dust was left from the drilling.

It rained during the night, but this morning while a batch of laundry was drying out in the balcony, I went out to shop locally for food. All I have to do is to walk across one of the small pedestrian bridges of the Lana canal and within 1/2 hour I purchased all I needed.

At the intersection of a couple of small streets (visible from my balcony) there is small park where every morning many elderly people congregate to relax. The men usually occupy two round tables to play cards, while the women exchange news on the benches.

Many are the shops in this area, and a full size produce 'bazaar' is just nearby.

Let me tell you what I bought today. All veggies just out of the ground for a few hours and meats freshly cut and put together (in a gorgeous butcher shop!). Six zucchini, 6 large scallions, 6 carrots, 1 large head of green salad, 1 cauliflower, 1 huge loaf of dark bread, 1 bottle of red wine (from the town of Permet), 2 chicken breasts and 6 round, freshly made, veal burgers (called 'qofte'). My total food bill this morning was $16.15.

It's afternoon now, and under the shade of the trees that now display their baby green foliage, someone is resting.

As I zero in with my camera I notice the luggage used as a headrest. It must be one of the many backpack young tourists that I have noticed around Tirana, where they use quite a few hostels.

The rest of my afternoon will be spent visiting the mother and aunt of one of the people I deal with in business. They wanted to meet me and I've been invited to their home across town.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Dog days....

While Tirana is changing for the better in many ways, one sore sight is the presence of stray dogs everywhere. Some roam around the garbage disposal bins, or sleep in sunny spots along some quiet old streets, just like a few homeless people that are also present in this city. Others boldly travel in large groups, criss crossing the boulevards, and dodging their way through the heavy vehicular traffic that barely misses them.

The other day a strange sound of a cry reached me through the open windows while I was doing some computer work. I was appalled by the scene in a nearby empty lot of one dog being viciously attacked by the rest of its gang.


Dog owners in this city seem to prefer small pooches; at least, this is what I have noticed being walked so far, while the roaming ones are usually larger in size.

Today I received, instead, a pleasant surprise when I entered my property. The people that take care of it, having learned that I love dogs and haven't had one since I was a child, presented me with some lovely puppies, recently born in the household of some friends of theirs.

Two of them were destined to me, while the 3rd went to a young neighbor. They assured me that they had been checked by a vet and found healthy, and wanted me to name them.

My pair is both brown and white. Unaware and unconcerned about their breed I was thrilled to see them cheerfully playing with my shoelaces, and thanks to the gentle suggestion of a friend, I choose their names.

And here they are: 'Pepe' the male (on the right), and 'Ina' the female (on the left)!

its' hard to keep them still for a pix...

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Spring chores

A strange noise and a strong smell of grass reached me this morning all the way up to the 12th floor! A quick look from my balcony and I realized that city workers were manicuring the slope grounds bordering the Lana Canal.

Again, the week started with 2 full days of heavy rains, and the canal was dicharging dirty water at a fast pace until last night. This morning beautiful sunshine added a extra layer of green to the blooming trees, and the grass needs attending to.

Some of the men were manning the machines, while some took a break on the sidewalk benches......


while the all women crew followed them to collect the cut grass by rake or hand.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Sunday escape

After a few days of rain, today started in bright and warm sunshine and it was perfect for getting out of town.

My friends, who work very hard all week, on Saturday, or Sunday usually take time off and get away from Tirana, even if just for a few hours. They took me along to the beach area of the port city of Durres, where they have summer lodgings.

Here distances are short and in 1/2 hour we reached the city of Durres, where they do have an apartment overlooking the beach, but, to my surprise, they didn't stop there. They drove further south, to the coastal area known as Golem, where they own another apartment, hidden in the midst of a maritime pine forest.

This area, once completely uninhabited, has been built up during the past 15 years, and is now well known for a variety of restaurants, hotels, and all sorts of accomodations. One building after another line up the highway toward the south, which has been doubled in size to accomodate Tirana outgoing traffic during weekends. Entire villages have sprung up here and there in the midst of pine forests that follows the coast line.

As I got out of their car, I was hit by the fresh smell of the trees and a whiff of sea breeze.

Unloaded from the car all sorts of goodies, we quickly set up a home precooked lunch, which we enjoyed in the open veranda in the tranquillity of this setting.


Toward evening the rain returned and we headed back to Tirana. Taking advantage of my friends' car, I purchased household necessities at the huge new CityPark shopping mall, in the outskirts of the capital. Notwithstanding the late hour, business was in full swing there.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Cappuccino anyone?

Albanians are great consumers of coffee. They enjoy either a cup of espresso, or turkish coffee at any hour of day or night. Anywhere you go you're offered one or if you meet someone for whatever reason, it's also always in a cafe`. These establishments are everywhere in town and, needless to say, they thrive.

Yesterday, my friends showed up with an Italian coffee machine that they'd like me to try. They already use one that only makes espresso in their own offices, but this one also makes cappuccino, all prepacked, and measured by cup. Once the machine was setup we all tried a cup of both alternatives.

Thus, this morning I treated myself to a home made cappuccino for breakfast with a piece of "colomba".....Ummm!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Supper surprise

It's a quiet, sunny, but cool Sunday afternoon and I am alternating some computer work with a batch of laundry. While having a snack of Easter "colomba" I get a phone call from my hosting friends.

....the tail is gone....

The husband was announcing that his wife was on the way up to my apartment to bring me a little surprise.
Knowing that I love eggplants, she added and extra dish for me, while baking for the company they had this afternoon.

....still warm, it smells delicious!

As I was remarking about the size of the dish, she assured me that the complete vegetarian dish was assembled with "no fat"..... I know I'm going to enjoy its content for supper!

Friday, April 09, 2010

Springtime.....

After a full week of gorgeous sunshine, the snow caps of Dajti mountain are disappearing.......

...the air is cleared by a couple of showers........


.....and Tirana is now in full bloom mode.....!

Wednesday, April 07, 2010

72 years ago.....

on this day, April 7th, it was Good Friday, and the life of my family was totally destroyed by the events of WWII.

As a baby I don't remember much of that day, although I've vague memories of rumbling of cannons and looking at the sky where a military air fleet was flying above Tirana, dropping leaflets asking the population to surrender.

The days that followed were very chaotic, and Tirana became a ghost town for a while. My father chose the road to exile, as most people did then. My mother, I, my nanny, and our dog remained in our house, which, soon after, was confiscated to be used as the general headquarter of the Italian Army that occupied the country.

Much history has gone by since then, lots of which is being documented for the future generations not to forget.

Monday, April 05, 2010

An Italian gathering

On Friday eve, March 26th, I attended a pizza party that was planned by the Italian community in Tirana for the visit of Beppe Severgnini, noted author and journalist of ‘Corriere della Sera’ of Milan, and ‘The Economist’.

He runs some TV programs in Italy and, for the past 10 years, answers daily a dozen emails addressed to the Corriere, in a column entitled “Italians”. He has traveled the world to launch his books, now also translated in other languages, and has also lived for a while in Washington, DC. Since 1999 the tradition is that a pizza party is organized by his fans in every city that he goes to, but it’s never repeated in the same city should he returns to it.

Although he has traveled from one end to the other of the globe, he has never been to Albania, where he finally came this year. I originally met him at the 2nd pizza held in NYC in 1999, and now saw him again at 103rd pizza in Tirana. He made a presentation first at the University in the northern city of Shkoder (Scutari in Italian), and then, rode to Tirana in the evening, accompanied by the Italian Consul of that city.

A young lady that has lived and worked in Tirana in the past year for an Italian consulting firm was the organizer of this pizza, which took place at a well known local Restaurant.

Asia, the organizer, with Beppe

Some of the expected participants did not show up at the last moment, but of the 30 people or so that came, a gamut of Italian businesses were represented, in addition to quite a few members of the Italian Embassy.


Italian Amb. D'Elia (on left), Italian Consul Marguccio (with beard), and Albanian Student of Journalism in Italy, Leonard (on the left foreground)


Members of Italian Embassy

I had the honor of sitting next to Beppe and to chat with the Italian Ambassador that asked me to sit in front of him for ease of conversation. It was a pleasant evening and a nice break for me from my busy move.

Beppe networked with everyone present, and, as usual, then mentioned the variety of people he met in his online column.

The Italian Embassy this year has planned and is carrying out quite a project for the next 3 months to further develop the interaction between Albania and Italy. It’s called “Italia e Albania 2010” with a motto of “due Popoli, un Mare, un’Amicizia” (= two people, one sea, one friendship). It includes concerts of all sorts, a rock festival, dance programs, and even a ‘regatta’ that will be run across the Otranto Canal from the Albanian Coast (Orikum) to the Italian heel of Puglia region.

The Head of the Italian Commercial Office kindly included my email address onto their ad list so that I may be apprised of dates and type of programs as they’re publicized. I look forward to attend some of them, if at all possible, while in town.

New lodgings - Part 2

With this post I continue the description of my new living quarters in Tirana.

An enormous wall to wall unit provides storage of all kind at the new apartment’s entrance. This includes racks for shoes, drawers, shelves, coat closet, and space for storing luggage.

The wide hallway leads to 1 ½ bathrooms on one side, and a master bedroom on the other that has additional closets wall to wall.

At the end of the corridor an additional room that could serve as a 2nd bedroom, has a desk in it so that I could use it as a study. Later on I’ll include in it an ottoman to accommodate eventual guests.

The visitor’s bathroom is closest to the entrance, while the other faces the master bedroom, and, to my delight, it includes a bidet and a washing machine! What luxury! Nothing seems to be lacking here!

The studio has a floor to ceiling, narrow glass wall, kitty corner to another glass door leading to a small balcony. As I sit at my desk, at dawn I can watch the sun rays come up from behind the Dajti mountains. In the evening, 12 floors below, the never ending traffic moves along this boulevard of Tirana, and during the night, when it eases off, I can observe city trucks washing the streets and doing garbage collection pretty much on schedule around 12:30am.











In less than a week, I moved out most of my personal stuff and furniture from the old quarters I used for 9 years, as a residence and office. Thanks to small rearrangements and the available spaciousness these fit and blend in just fine in the new residence, while the balance of office furniture and stuff will be moved out in another week. Thus, the old apartment can be released back to its owner, who is sincerely sorry to see me go. The organization I am running can now be housed separately, free of charge, on my property in another part of the city.

As most of you, my friends, know it took years to re-obtain possession of my ex residence and land, after decades of use by the government. Last year it was finally released to me, as a rightful owner, but in a terrible condition. It will take quite a bit of planning, time, and money to put it to good use, but a wing of it is already in good shape to store what the organization will need to operate from there in the future.

Two days ago 2 young workers came to install the communication wiring inside my new apartment, where a router will provide wireless connection throughout, while my host was assembling a huge antenna that will be mounted on the balcony, with a terrestrial digital, for clearer TV viewing and access to all other foreign channels. Meanwhile I was busy washing, cleaning and organizing my belongings of all sorts and cooking my first home meal. There is still quite a bit to do, but I’m making good progress.

Internet communication in my property will be provided soon by existing coaxial cables in the zone, and the satellite TV setup that I used in the old apartment will also be transferred there for the organization.

This is all a simple beginning for now, but hopefully, when the necessary funds, being researched now, will become available even this project will be implemented and eventually fully developed by employing appropriate staffing. Just the other day a high level officer of a foreign bank here was telling me that he was highly impressed by the seriousness and enthusiasm of the young Albanians they have hired here, most of them trilingual.

Thus, I am pleased that, with some effort, good beginnings are being put into effect all the way around. This, indeed, reinforces my positive attitude toward the future and what I am involved in. Onward we go!