Thursday, March 19, 2009

Spring chores and plans

A bit of milder temperature is just budding out in NYC, a day here and there, although nights are still cold and the wind, as usual, never subsides in this city.

Having taken care of all the annual accounting and tax chores, I'm now undergoing routine medical checkups, and this week will start planning my next trip to Albania, where, I am told, winter is finally over.

Meantime, I see that Albania's entry into Eurovision Song Context that will take place in Moscow next May is taking shape. The chosen song ("Carry me in my dreams")that will represent the country is now also in an official English version, clearly delivered by the 16 year old Kejsi Tola. Video and comments are available here online.

Sunday, March 01, 2009

Washington trip

As usual, this time of the year I find myself busy gathering and organizing all sorts of documents and figures needed to file the required annual tax returns; thus, the month of February silently slipped away from me. However, I also spent the last part of this month in Washington, DC, where I went to attend a couple of meetings, and where I was a guest of long term, local friends, whom I had not visited in quite a while.

The excuse to make this trip came when I received an invitation to attend a celebration of the 1st anniversary of the independence of the Republic of Kosovo and in honor of the visit in that city of its President, Fatmir Sejdiu. I decided to ride in comfort, via the Amtrak train, which takes about 3 hours to cover the 210 miles from New York.

There is no exiting scenery along this stretch of flat land and waterways, but it’s a relaxing experience to just have lunch on board, enjoy the tranquility of a “quiet” car, and just let the smooth train motion lull you to snooze a bit.


Washington is always a beautiful, orderly, and spotless city, a real contrast to the chaotic New York City. My friends live in a lovely, quiet, and centrally located, cooperative apartment, just off one of the main large thoroughfares in this city, and my stay there was, as usual, very comfy. We had a lot to catch up with, and I also enjoyed seeing one of their son and his family at dinner one night. In another evening we attended the projection of a very interesting film by Giulio Amelio in one of the halls of the Italian Embassy, which I had never visited previously. It’s an extremely modern building, with a huge entrance hall, almost completely surrounded by glass, which is used for large receptions, and is full of large paintings and sculptures.



The Kosovo reception took place one evening in one of the large Washington hotels (Embassy Suite) and, to the surprise of many, it was mobbed! Nobody guessed there would be such a huge attendance of Albanians that flocked into Washington for this occasion in great number. It was quite difficult to move around and with all the lights, the cameras, and the people the hall became a real steam bath! Some of the pictures that I thought were taken didn’t turn out at all, but I was able to briefly talk with President Sejdiu, Prime Minister Thaci, Albania’s Amb. Sallabanda, Albania’s representative at the U.N., Amb. Neritani, and to say hello to a large number of other Albanians I know that came from New York, Boston, Detroit, Philadelphia, and Chicago.


Overall, this trip provided me with a needed break, away from home. The Washington weather was mild, but I returned to NY just in time for some rain and a winter storm that is expected to leave us tonight with 10 inches of fresh snow!!

Tuesday, February 03, 2009

Albania's old treasures

Two interesting articles on Albania's old treasures, considering also that these come from two opposite continents:

- by Prof. Skurdenis of NY, written for ITN about archeological sites on Albanian soil, and
- by China Daily, through the English version of Xinhuanet news agency, about ancient times shipwrecks along the Albanian Ionian coast.

While the latter is too fresh as news to contain more details (this research refers to last August project), the article on ITN, is one of the best brief, but quite comprehensive descriptions I've come across on this subject so far, with Butrint taking the lion's share of publicity since it's on UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Documentary

The other day I received a last minute invitation to attend the projection of a film that covered a U.N. trial in Kosova, which documents the differences between the modern European and old judicial ways of settling criminal cases in the Balkans.

Curious and willing to learn a bit more, I attended this 1 1/2 hr presentation offered by the Austrian Cultural Forum in N.Y. I was among few participants, mostly Albanians, except for 2 Germans, and I was one of only 2 women present at this showing.

The Court proceedings dealt with young Albanians accused of having participated in a heavy assault incident. During this trial, Chief Judge, Claudia Fenz, encounters and discovers the existing traditional jurisdiction that is in contrast to the rule of law pursued by the UN juridical process. The differences were striking and surprising also to the 2 German participants in the audience with me, and whom, at the end of this film presentation, I and 2 Albanian lawyers, also present, had a chat with.

Although, like most Albanians, and due to my family history, I am acquainted with the old traditional code that has governed for centuries all aspects of life in Albania, a couple of issues surprised me while watching this film. First, and above all, that the UN appointed a woman judge to rule in proceedings taking place in a very male dominant society, with knowingly traditional systems - both of these issues, I believe, should have been known to, anticipated, and dealt by the top international organization before hand.

Secondly, it was impossible for me not to be emotionally involved in the hardship encountered by both the judge, and the chief prosecutor, also a young woman, who, however, performed splendidly. They not only spent lots of time trying to understand the local customs by visiting and meeting with local mediators, who shared their experiences in similar cases, but they also excellently kept at bay their frustration, continuously challenged by the impertinent behavior of the local male defense attorneys.

Other very important parameters that had great effect in this whole situation were language translation for the judging body and poor conduct on the part of witnesses. The latter, after sentencing, ended up threatening of killing each other, while the judges, during the process, had a very difficult time understanding the details of the case. This was due non necessarily to the translation process, but because the answers to specific questions very always very superficial, and lots of time irreconcilable with the questions posed.

This is a very interesting, but difficult situation to be involved in! In the past few years, I have experienced (not as a lawyer, but as a simple party involved in a dispute) similarly frustrating moments, especially due to legal language context. It's no fun, asking for a specific answer, and getting replies that may, at times, be totally, but probably intentionally, unrelated to the requested details at hand!

I'm glad to have seen this documentary in any case. Didn't learn very much from it, except getting confirmation of having been involved in similar predicaments, which lead only to waste of precious time, expenses, and many disappointments. 'C'est la vie' in our global society!

Friday, January 23, 2009

Contrasts

Shortages or excess??
It still all depends from nature's generosity or stinginess.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

New Year, new projects


After a quiet, and restful pause during the holidays, I was determined to tackle much needed tasks within my residence, and thus, I started the new year with a long list of items to be fixed or replaced in my apartment.

I didn't even realize how fast the days were going by, but, I'm finally noticing the list is getting shorter and I feel satisfied about what I've accomplished so far with relative ease, except for having to dip deeper into my wallet.

Some old equipment needed complete replacement, which I was able to order online, after some research and analysis of alternatives. While I was waiting for the orders to arrive, I rearranged wiring and cables, extended hookups, and cleaned some areas that are not easily accessible to normal dusting. In doing so I even reshuffled the electrical plugs and surgemaster units so that now it's even easier to save more electricity due to the repositioning of these units, which can be easily turned off when not in use.

The new laser printer was a breeze to install, the new desk chair, although quite heavy, was not difficult to assemble, the new high definition TV is up and running, coupled with a new combo VCR/DVD that will allow me to convert the many VHS tapes I have.....time permitting! The only problem I encountered was with the cable company that services my building. The HD cable modem I needed from them had to be replaced 4 times because they were defective. Some unit functioned only if I rebooted it every time I turned the tv on. It's obvious that these are recycled units, but the service was furnished with smiles and apologies, which now are culminating also in a credit for interrupted service during the past month.

While this was going on, the amaryllis I received for Christmas (below) has gone through 2 cycles of blooming, but a 2nd plant, which I also received for New Year has now bursted out into 7 new flowers, all at once! In a dreary day like today, when it's snowing in New York and the temperature is a frigid 19F ( -7C) degrees, I'm warmed up by quite a sight on my desk (top picture)!

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Happy Holidays!


SEASON'S GREETINGS TO ONE AND ALL!!


BUON NATALE E FELICE NUOVO ANNO!!


GEZUAR FESTAT DHE URIMET ME TE MIRA PER VITIN E RI!!

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Holiday rush made easy

Everyone seems to be rushing around more these days, and the pressure to meet holiday deadlines is on. The weather is not helping much since the days are so short and gloomy from the lack of sunshine, at least here in New York.

But, thanks to online facilities the chores of making contributions, exchanging news with, and greeting friends and family at this extremely busy time of the year is a breeze. Bless Internet!

The writing of holidays cards, especially when one had to address a long lists of names, used to be a time consuming task, but no more. Personally, in the past couple of years, I've reduced the handwriting to a dozen cards, only to the people that still depends on snail mail. The rest of the exchanges flies in seconds to all sorts of destinations thanks to a paid subscription that keeps track of all the contacts I maintain not only for the holidays, but also for birthdays, anniversaries, and all sorts of special occasions.

The same concept applies to my contributions, which can be scheduled and prompt me in due time to take care of them wherever I may be, and also to gifts ordering that cuts down trooping around in bad weather or traffic conditions.

I prefer to be on the giving, rather than the receiving end of these exchanges, since personally I've reached the age when there is no need for special gifts. A simple greeting would do, or a donation to the causes dear to my heart would make me happy. My close friends know what these are, but some still continue to remember me with flowers or plants, such as the one delivered by hand today, which will bloom throughout this season, but eventually will die out. Meantime, it'll keep me company right on my desk - thank you my friend!

Sunday, December 07, 2008

On a lighter side......

some Albanians are also struggling for recognition in artistic fields.

I'm glad to see a young cousin of mine among the chosen participants to the Festival of Songs taking place in Tirana this month, and leading the winner to represent Albania at the next Eurovision Song Contest. He is a gainfully employed, handsome, soft spoken individual, and a thoughtful singer and composer. Good luck to him!!

A predictable and just reaction

on the part of Albanians familiar with their country's political antics and historical background experiences

http://www.albanianeconomy.com/news/2008/12/05/opposition-grows-to-albania-wind-project/

Thursday, December 04, 2008

New travel experiences

Unexpected sunshine in Tirana and also a quick and smooth ride to the airport, notwithstanding the announced visit in the morning of Italy's Prime Minister Berlusconi for a round of official ceremonies and signatures that are sealing some grandiose schemes between the 2 countries. I obviously escaped the traffic snarl later on in the city center. Everything seemed to be running smoothly at Rinas airport, where loads of planes were on the ground, from a huge Austrian airbus to a variety of smaller crafts.

As the time of my departure approached there was, however, no Lufthansa plane in sight. Then the surprise posting at the gate: one hour expected delay. Lufthansa's aircraft mechanical problems on the incoming flight forced us to wait. Everyone seems resigned to have to miss the planned connections in Germany for further transport. But Lufthansa efficiency was evident in the turnaround departure, and during the flight to Munich. The crew got to work on re-routing everyone's itinerary without even being prompted by a single question!

The Munich hub was also a beehive of activities and at the gate we were received by special attendants that divide us in groups and trouped us through the security points, to other connecting flights. I, with about another two dozens (mostly) Albanians, were taken to British Airlines and flown to London, where we were switched to a Virgin Atlantic flight to Newark. Announcements were made all along, and everyone was accommodated. People destined to reach Michigan and Illinois were informed that they would spend the night in a hotel at Newark's airport before reaching their destination in the U.S. the following morning.

Newark airport functions all night, but there is an evident curtailment of services. Only 4 passport control agents on duty, handling both US citizens and foreigners together, rather then separately (with obvious delay for everyone), and not many choices of transport out of the airport during the night, except for a few offered rides by independent limo drivers. I took a chance with one (Egyptian lawyer in the State for 11 years) who whisked me home at a fair price, while telling me his entire life story, probably thinking that he was reassuring me of the seriousness of his service. Finally made it home at 2AM.

The above route changes that made me go through 6 different security points and additional airport, also provided me the opportunity to fly for the first time on Virgin Atlantic's huge new Airbus from London to the U.S.

Very attentive, young, and cheerful cabin crews that went about their chores quickly and always smiling, attended more than 310 passenger,and made sure that the night flight was as comfortable as possible for everyone on board. Even in economy they distributed individual pouches with some niceties such as they are usually offered in business class and they performed tasks never observed by me previously. Before departure, one crew member would always be around one of the 6 exit points in case of emergency, then they stashed away all blankets in pouches (to avoid tripping on cellophane) both at take off and landing, and the announcements were kept at a minimum to give the passengers the chance to relax throughout the night. On this type of craft the seats were a bit tight, but there was more leg room. This time I was lucky to have 4 seats to myself, although I could not completely lie down on them.

This return to the U.S. was a bit tiresome, and a time consuming adventure for me, but as pleasant as it could me under the circumstances. Now I must switch gears and re-adapt to life on the ground at home.

Saturday, November 29, 2008

Rainy days..........and unsightly lots!

Like many other capitals, Tirana is also a city of great contrasts.

When it rains here it's an awful mess, especially when you have to navigate narrow alleys!!

 
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Noticed these (electrical or phone)lines on the ground for several days, but no one seems concerned about them - pedestrians and cars just walk over them!

 


 
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Some seemingly abandoned small lots (but probably waiting for confirmation of someone's ownership), unfortunately become incredibly bad dumping grounds....!

Recycling in Tirana is still a non-practice....and the result in certain areas is horrific!


Meanwhile, the city center was re-built, the main thoroughfares were repaved, the streetlights are finally working, the number of pubs, discos, restaurants, cafes', and travel agencies are growing like mushrooms, and tonight, 96th Independence Day for Albanian is being celebrated with an Italian style "White Night". This means an all night of music around town, in the larges squares and along the grand boulevard where Tirana's 'Twin Towers' are located.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Greetings - Urime


From Tirana I send best wishes for the upcoming holiday weekend to one and all:

HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY to my American friends and family members, and

GEZUAR FESTEN E FLAMURIT / ALBANIA's INDEPENDENCE DAY to my Albanian relatives and friends wherever they are!

Drita

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Article from BalkanInsight.com : 'Italy PM to visit Albania to seal coal plant deal'.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Local products

Today I'm enjoying the 2 local products purchased by my friends along the road yesterday while visiting the National Park of Llogora.

The tangerines are very sweet and completely seedless. Some of them are so small, still fully developed as a fruit, the size of which is equal to a walnut that can be popped into the mouth in one scoop! Although I don't know the costs of this purchase, I do know that it's pennies compared to the famous 'clementines' that we buy in the U.S. at a very high price especially during this season.


This afternoon I tried for the first time the wild tea that grows naturally in these mountains, and my entire apartment was refreshed by the aroma emanated from its very simple preparation of placing the flowers in cold water, and then boiling them for about 5 to 7 minutes. With a bit of sugar, the result was very pleasing!

wild look....but great taste!

Today, on the way home after treating myself to a soothing pedicure, I also did some shopping at a small local supermarket, where I bought other local produce, such a crunchy cucumber (labeled "persian" in NY and costing $2.99/lb there) for which I paid only 25 cents, and my usual quantity of 'zucchini' that here was quoted a mere 70 cents. A full (1/2 kg = a bit more than 1 lb.) bag of extra fine, iodized sea salt was only 20 cents!

Another observation about food that comes to my mind while in Europe is that the quality of some processed goods, by the same well known companies also present in the U.S., is much better than in the States. I do believe that the processing of fresher local base products provides a much better taste, as proven when these staples are eaten fresh here.

Now it's time to prepare dinner....so I bid you "Bon Appetit!", or "te bufe'mire!".

Sunday, November 16, 2008

A long post...but a short weekend!

This weekend started a bit late on Saturday afternoon because both I and my friends, who offered to take me out of the city for some sightseeing, had other commitments in the morning.

Left Tirana around 1:30pm and a bit later we stopped in the suburbs of the town of Kavaja in a wonderful, warm and sunny day, and we had a relaxing, magnificent fish lunch at one of their favorite eateries. After a colorful cold green salad and a delicious variety of grilled hot vegetables with balsamic vinegar and assorted cheeses, the huge platter of spaghetti with seafood ('frutti di mare') disappeared very quickly.


As second course we had a perfectly cooked, and unboned "orata sotto sale". This is a typical Italian way of baking an entire fish completely covered by coarse salt. When the fish is done, the salt is then discarded with the bones and the skin and the fish has an heavenly taste, just the way it is with nothing else on it! Good Albanian chefs have picked up these recipes while undergoing training and getting cooking experiences in Italy, before opening up their own places back home.

We then proceeded toward the southern port of Vlora (3rd largest city in Albania), which we reached at 6:30pm, when is already dark at this time of the year. The just renovated hotel that my friends usually patronize is located right near the water, at the end of a long city boulevard, flanked by palm trees and many newly built high rises with stores, restaurants, cafes, and businesses. The hotel owner greeted us personally, speaking to me in perfect English, and ordered the clerk to give me a room with a front view.

Then we took a night ride along the coast, and finally around 9pm, back at the hotel, the owner treated all of us to dinner for free!! Another huge meal, this time with meat as a second course. Tired, but quite relaxed (after all I didn't do the driving!) I didn't feel like watching tv (notwithstanding the large choice of Albanian, English, German, Italian channels) and let myself go to sleep in the very spacious and comfortable double bed!

In the morning when I opened the curtains, I realized that the hotel was facing the most famous historical house in Albania. I recognized it since I had taken a picture of it a couple of years earlier. Here on November 28th, 1912, the Albanian flag was raised for the first time in honor of the creation of the Albanian state.

From the balcony of my room, I enjoyed the view of the Karaburum peninsula, where during WWII lots of secret operations were conducted in its many underground caves, and I watched two early ferry boats unload their cargo that included dozens of trucks and trailers that then rolled into a large yard for customs inspection.


Albania is lucky to face 2 different seas along its entire length. In the north the Adriatic and from Vlora downward the Ionian.

After a buffet breakfast on the terraced, top floor of the hotel, we left Vlora and continued our trip southward toward the mountains and the area named Llogara, which is a national park.


As we rode upward, we stopped for cappuccino at an Italian business, perched, on the side of the mountain, right over the water. It's a small, modern hotel, restaurant, and cafe' that overlooks its own tiny beach.

The weather was threatening rain, but we luckily only experienced a sprinkle or two, when we reached the top that afforded a beautiful view of the pristine, well known beaches of Dhermi way below...





In the middle of this park, we made another stop at an attractive tourist village used during the summer for its coolness, and even during the winter for its pretty scenery in the snow. Here we were surprised to find a large group of deers grazing on the ground of this resort that consists of a modern hotel and a number of separate cabins, with all sorts of facilities, including indoor swimming pool and fitness center.

The deers here, obviously exposed to people for quite a while, are fed by guests and approach visitors with boldness, seeking food.


Inside the main building a fire was roaring in the middle of a large dining area, which, however, was empty since this is an off season time. We only took a drink here and then started our descend to return home.


After saying goodbye to the deers, we proceeded down the mountains, and shopped along the road for wonderful, sweet tangerines (called 'mandarins'), and the special tea with a very strong aroma that grows naturally around this area, also known for its production of honey.

Midway back to Tirana, the weather changed for the better and the sun started to shine again over the bay of Vlora, where we stopped for lunch at a new, and very elegant restaurant.

Here we were joined by another couple of friends, who drove in from Tirana, and are also partial to fish. They ordered an array of dishes that included 'bruschetta', fish 'carpaccio' with pomegranate seeds, assorted cheeses and vegetables, fish soup and a huge 'sarago' with roasted potatoes, plus dessert and freshly cut fruits.

As the day was coming to an end, we rode back to Tirana, tired, but wishing that the time off our daily chores could have lasted a bit longer.....

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Old surprise?

How can a surprise be old? The surprise I received today is about old stuff, actually about old family pictures just recently discovered!

I have been a user of Albania's National Archives since 1993 and I've had the pleasure of viewing more than once the huge amount of files and documents about my family, which were secretly preserved, with many others, throughout several decades, by the ex communist regime.

Everything that was confiscated during those dark years, when personal properties were expropriated and people were imprisoned or sent to concentration camps, was never destroyed, but actually cataloged. Archival materials were accumulated and still exist in several locations reporting to different branches of government, however. Currently lots of work is undergoing, for a variety of reasons, to re-organize these voluminous collections that not only provide an historical background of Albania, but become an important tool for current day needs by both the state and its citizens, especially involving the still thorny and debated property issues.

Anyway, the surprise that was presented to me today relates to the recent unearthing of hundreds of negatives and related prints about my early days in Tirana and about my immediate family then. This morning I was overwhelmed by the number of them, although I know that my uncle had the hobby of photography and in those days he was well equipped to perform the related development at home.


The majority of the negatives, of the old fashion type on glass, are well preserved, and so are most prints in black and white.

My mother and I

[prints on top - glass negatives below]


Today I was offered the possibility of having the pictures of my choice scanned and mounted on a CD, which should be ready in a couple of days. The surprise made my day, and provided me with quite a few ideas of how I'm going to use this newly discovered treasure of mine!

Friday, November 07, 2008

Local shopping & yummy goods!

While in Tirana I do my groceries shopping in several places; some at the large supermarkets that have nothing to envy from the American ones, when I have the opportunity of riding in a car, and other locally, within a short walking distance from my apartment building.

Since my last trip here in the spring I found both places have improved in a variety of ways, from expansion of the area covered, to a more appealing display of items, to the quality of foods being sold. The only ones that remain the same are the street sellers that line up along some roads the vegetables and fruits produced daily by the local farmers. The men, usually middle aged, stand and prop up a variety of produce on temporary stands, while the women, usually older and dressed in long black clothing with white kerchiefs on their head, squat at the edge of the sidewalk, and display their fewer offerings by spreading them out on plastic sheets and/or newspapers directly on the pavement.

While the large markets that now are popping out all over the city within huge shopping malls offer an assortment of products from all over the world, the local store carry mostly local goods, but they certainly don't lack anything one may need on a daily basis, and, are obviously much cheaper.

One of the local vegetables that I love when I come to Tirana are the giant string beans that I've never seen in New York. They come in 2 varieties: yellow or green, about 20cm (or more) long (~ 3/4 foot), and almost one inch wide, thick and tender, and they can be cooked in less than 15 minutes. With a bit of tomato sauce they are really very tasty!


Today I decided to patronize a small, local, pretty store that sells only sweets and that I'd noticed before. It offers an array of candies, cookies, pastries, and cakes, and I was impressed by the use of plastic gloves on the part of the sales person, when she served me. What a variety... and only the problem of choice! I bought a small supply of a few items, and I wasn't disappointed in any! The Albanian almond cookies 'amareti" (in Italian "amaretti") are a delight. They are soft, light, and a bit chewy: but real yummy! This store has definitely gained a new customer in town.


BTW, did I ever mention that any seller here, whether a small shop owner, or a large market server, is always extremely courteous and goes out of his/her way to take care of a prospective customer, whomever he or she might be? No need for great advertising in these small enclaves: their greetings are also very enticing and a smart way to attract clientĆØle. Too bad that the typical European custom that pays individual attention to a shopper is a practice that can no longer be afforded in large cosmopolitan American cities.

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

November Days

The first 2 days of this month are traditional holidays in most Catholic countries worldwide. November 1, is the official All Saints Day, which honors all saints who attained Beatific Vision, followed by All Soul's Day on November 2, honoring the "Day of the Dead", dedicated to the departed.

Although the celebrations may vary from country to country depending on their customs, generally speaking. at this time, Catholics go all the way out to clean, and give a face-lift to the burial grounds belonging to their families, and all living family members make a special visit to their local cemeteries, even if they have to travel long distances.

While in Albania at this time, I was able to visit Tirana's cemetery, where two of my family members are buried. This visit occurred, however, only today due to other commitments that I had on Sunday, and, being a week day, it turned out to be a much more intimate and quiet experience. This graveyard is the property of the State since it was created in the early 1960's when the communist government decided to transfer here the remains from older grounds that were used instead to build state housing for the expanding population of this capital.

Upon my return to Albania in 1993 I learned that, while the communist dictatorship made the decision, the actual transfer of the remains was left to be accomplished by the family member or relatives, who dug up the bones of their dear ones and transported them on their bicycles to the new site. These were the days when no religious practices or private cars were allowed, and everyone was expected to volunteer work for the state. The remains were collected by hand and reburied directly into the ground or in plastic bags, if available.

When I paid my first visit in 1993 there were only very small markers to identify the lots, and no marble was available to setup tombstones. Since then the new cemetery has quadrupled in size, most of tombs have been setup with all sorts of sculptures, stones of different colors, and even railings and fences. The road that leads into the cemetery is now lined up with businesses that provide all sorts of services to the visitors, including enormous assortments of fake or fresh flowers, and even bottles of water.






During my visit today, I was thinking that I would need a whole week to visit all my family burial grounds, on both paternal and maternal sides, since they are located in 5 different countries, on 2 continents (New York, Italy, Montenegro, Albania, and Turkey).

Solicited by some relatives, about a year ago I took care of the transfer of my family plot in Montenegro from the original place, which has since been abandoned by the local church that it belonged to, to another small graveyard, up in the mountains closer to the place where my paternal grandfather lived. The original stone with the engraved names of one of my uncles and two aunts was in perfect condition, and it was mounted on top of a more modern marble structure, pictured below.


Today's visit to the cemetery in Tirana happened in full sunshine, with gorgeous blue skies, and hot weather for this time of the year (80 degrees F), while, heavy rains and floods are plaguing Italy where the the 90th anniversary of WWI is being celebrated.