Sunday, April 20, 2008

Folklore

Last evening I had a quiet dinner in a neighborhood restaurant with another of my Albanian friends and we were heading back home, when I got a call from the friends I traveled to Montenegro, who wanted me to have a new experience.

It was 10pm and they came to pick me up and drove to a restaurant bar where music and dancing was going on, full swing. The place was packed with whole families and everyone was enjoying a variety of music that ranged from Slavic and Turkish, to European and, of course, Albanian. They explained to me the difference of the songs, their origin (from north, south, and central areas), their moods, and the type of instruments that were used in the past to play them. I was impressed by their knowledge on this subject that was not limited, BTW, to their own Albanian world.



The customers were happily drinking, smoking, eating, clapping, singing, and dancing, sometimes even without getting up, raising their arms to accompany the music, which never stopped! The male and female singers had wonderful, strong voices, and seemed tireless. The woman also played the violin expertly.



A gentleman from another table, who apparently knew my hosts, approached us at a certain point to bring a small bottle of home made raki that had aged for 2 years in oak wood containers. It was as enjoyable as any good cognac!

It was almost 2am when I got back to my apt, where I had no trouble falling asleep!

Friday, April 18, 2008

Visit to Montenegro - part 3

By midmorning on Sunday, we resumed our travel, and, first, drove north to the internationally recognized resort of Sveti Stefan, which I had seen from a distance during a trip I took in ex Yugoslavia in 1976. The view of this small, rugged looking island, which is full of modern hotels and beautiful homes, was magnificent under the brilliant morning sun. Here some Hollywood people have invested in real estate.






Later, we turned to the south and visited briefly the port city of BAR, ending up by midday at the bay of Kotor.



It was quite a sight to approach this picturesque area from the mountains, overlooking the bay below, full of yachts, and populated areas on all sides. The winding road led us down to the town, where we parked and walked throughout the old city, with its very quaint, narrow, stone paved alleys.


Here almost every historic building was marked with the names of the families that owned them, and the centuries (ie: XIII, XIV, etc.) in which they lived in them.




Inside the old walled city there were café’ in some “piazzas”, and many European tourists, visiting several churches of more than one denomination. Every turn we took brought us to interesting nooks and crannies, small shops, and food stores that emanated inviting smells of freshly baked “byrek”!


From this town, at the foot of high mountains, one can observe an enormous castle, actually an old fortress – named St. John - which can be visited by climbing very steeply however, and its fortifications span over several peaks.






Instead, we relaxed a while at a large outdoor café’ in a sunny square, drinking an aperitif under the shade of colorful umbrellas, watching the locals and the typical tourists, munching on food while trooping around, dressed in comfortable clothing and shoes, armed with backpacks and water bottles. It was twelve noon on the main clock tower, and the church bells reminded us of midday with their pleasing sound.




From beautiful and quaint Kotor we continued to travel southward along the coast and headed for Ulqin. This is another very interesting, bustling city, located in a long valley that opens up toward the sea, and built also on both mountain sides that enclose it. Instead of stopping here, we proceeded traveling south, in order to have a late lunch, closer to the border of Albania, where my hosts wanted to treat me to another fish meal along the Buna river that flows also within Albania.

When we got to the restaurant of their choice, it was chilly to dine outdoors, so we used the inside dining room, which was cozy, and built right along the water. A couple of small boats actually stopped right at the back door, to make deliveries while we were there. The Buna river was slowly and quietly running toward the sea as we were enjoying another very good meal (terrific, tasty fish soup, grilled ‘levrek’ with potatoes and spinach, very colorful mixed salad, and excellent baklava). On the opposite side of the river several wooden homes with fishing nets and boats docked nearby could be observed.







At dusk we reached the Albanian border. This crossing (Muriqan/Sokobine)was opened only a couple of years ago, and it’s small, with only a few cars going through. It was funny to watch my hosts telling the controller not to stamp our entry on the passports because theirs were already too full of markings all over. Guess what…the guard readily complied!

It was night by the time we got into Tirana, As we approached the city and the traffic was thickening, for a moment I had the feeling of getting back to NYC , when one has invariably to slow down and find alternative routes to re-enter the city. And that was exactly what my hosts did! Although a bit tired, but very happy to have taken this trip and had such pleasant experiences, I nevertheless tackled the waiting email before going to bed!

Renovations in Tirana

While I am trying to sort out the pictures taken during the trip to Montenegro, this morning I come across the confirmation that Tirana's main 'Skanderbeg' square is scheduled to undergo soon restructuring and renovations.

Apparently a Belgian architectural studio has won the competition, and the actual work will start during the fall of this year.

It's currently a nightmare for both pedestrian and vehicular traffic to cross this immense plaza; I can imagine what this planned work will do to the area, which, BTW, is right outside the building where I lodge when in Tirana!!


the National Museum of History, facing the square on one side

(my apartment is slightly to the left of it)


current City Hall, dating back at least 70 years, on another side



the statue of Skanderbeg facing the square

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Visit to Montenegro - part 2

Left Tuz at dusk, heading toward Cettinje, once the capital of the country, and then onward to Budva, a resort town on the Adriatic coast, where my hosts had made a reservation for the night at a 5 star hotel. While driving westward toward the sea, along the winding roads, up and down the mountains, all of a sudden we found ourselves facing a gorgeous sunset. Not to stop, I tried capturing this beautiful scene through the windshield, and this resulted unfortunately in a not too clear and breathtaking view, as it was in reality.



We arrived at destination at 8pm under a light rain. I was assigned a beautiful room on the 6th floor, with a balcony overlooking the beach. My friends were planning to use the wellness center and the inviting indoor heated pool, but we all ended up resting a bit in our respective rooms.



At 9:30pm we took a very short walk along the beach to dine at a cozy and busy restaurant, where we enjoyed a great fish dinner and an excellent red Montenegrin wine.



The owner treated all of us with a dessert of home made apple strudel. At midnight, we took a longer walk to return to the hotel, and we went to take a peak at the casino on the top floor. It was a crowded and smoky place, full of tourists, most of them Italians.

During dinner I contacted a local couple, related to some cousins of mine in Michigan, whom I had met almost 4 years ago in Tuz when I organized a well attended and televised conference for an Albanian audience. They had invited me then to be their guest for a vacation in Budva, which I never took, but this was an occasion to say hello, at least. Excited to find that I was in town, they rushed to the hotel to see me the next morning.

My hotel room was excellently furnished with all amenities, including a well stocked bar, hair dryer, magnifying mirror and bathrobes in the bathroom, and cable TV.



I woke up early, anxious to see the sights from the 6th floor balcony of my room, overlooking the beach and the entire bay, and I watched the sun rise and light up the entire coast, while the hotel staff was uncovering the outdoor café’s furniture on a huge terrace below.











The local friends, whom, I found out, lived not too far away from where I was staying, waited for me at the bar while I was having breakfast with my hosts. Aware of their presence, I did not take much time to enjoy the buffet breakfast with its incredible variety of dishes for every taste, ranging from waffles and eggs, to meats, and fish, from fruits – fresh and cooked - to many choices of sweets, and freshly baked breads and croissants. I wanted to spend a bit of time with this sweet couple that was disappointed about my short visit. They repeated their original invitation giving me clues on how to reach Budva by air through a local nearby airport, whenever I decided to come back.


the hotel we stayed at



reflections in the outdoor hotel's pool


This was early Sunday morning, and my hosts had a full day of sightseeing planned ahead, which I’ll cover in part 3.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Visit to Montenegro - part 1

It has been almost 3 ½ years since my last visit to Tuz, a suburb of Podgoriça, capital of Montenegro, and I made it my business this year, while in Tirana, to revisit the many relatives (on my paternal side) that live there. They have been resident of that region for over a century. My grandparents had 8 children and my father was one of the youngest one. Currently, I have at least 4 generations of cousins in the area. Typical of Albanian hospitality, they always expect me to stay over for a while, but my visits, so far, have always been quite brief because, when I cross the Atlantic, the projects I am involved in require my continuous presence in Albania instead.

The car trip northward is now facilitated by better roads. My first trip in 1993, from Tirana to the northern city of Shkoder, took 3 ½ hours, while that distance now can be covered in just a bit over an hour. From there it takes less than half hour to reach the border of ‘Hane e Hotit’ with the newly independent country of Montenegro.

In 1993 I was the only person in sight at the dilapidated crossing station that employed only one man, behind a meager desk. Now this border post consists of several buildings on both sides, furnished with computers, and many uniformed controllers, and visas are no longer necessary. Lots of construction is ongoing there now to allow for more space for the large vehicular traffic, which delayed us about 20 minutes. The line up of international trucks and cars on both sides was impressive and vehicles had to be channeled into one lane to go through each way.

On my previous trips the hired car (with driver) that brought me to the border was not allowed to cross over due to lack of proper insurance for Montenegro. Now, anyone that needs such an insurance can buy it on the spot at an appropriate office, just before entering the country.

During this trip I was hosted by Albanian friends, two couples that own modern, sturdy cars, quite appropriate for mountainous terrain. The one I was riding in was imported from the US and was equipped with all amenities, such as Bose stereo music equipment stacked with cd’s in several languages, temperature controlled seats, sun roof, and mapping directional system. Very comfortable indeed to travel this way, although the price of gasoline in Europe is way above what’s in the States. I calculated it, and it was confirmed, at $7.00 a gallon!


One of the couples I traveled with


As done in the past, again my cousins insisted in meeting me at the border, where I switched cars. While I visited my relatives in Tuz, my friends proceeded to Podgoriça, where they ate and did some shopping. A huge lunch for me was prepared at one my cousin’s home (he’s is phys-ed teacher at the local middle school) and some other relatives came visiting while we were eating. Other people also dropped in, including someone I know from Michigan and a well known local painter that now lives in Germany.


the cousins in whose home I had lunch: parents of 4 children, 3 already married (of which 2 living abroad), and 1 grandchild



the youngest daughter - Nora - recently married with her husband, who owns a bar in town


I interrupted the lively chit chat a few hours later, when I was picked up by another cousin, Edi, a young lawyer who got married last August, so that I could visit his family and meet his young and very pretty wife, Marina. These newly weds live under the same roof of his family, as per tradition. Inside their very comfortable home, the youngest child was busy using with his play friends one of the two computers there.


Edi and his bride are on the left


This branch of relatives own extensive agricultural land sites and a large farm, right where my grandfather once lived, along the river Zeme. On the other side of the river there are enormous extensions of vineyards that, I am told, belong to the state, as seen in the photographs below.



This used to be the border between the older Albanian territory and the Ottoman occupied lands on the far side of the river. Many are the stories that recount some historical incidents along this border.


lots of greenery and trees are now hiding the remnants of the stone house (in the center) that belonged to my paternal grandfather

the state vineyards are in the background, as far as the eye can see


Toward evening I was reunited with my friends, who came to spend some time with my cousins, before we continued our trip throughout Montenegro. This was the first day of a very lovely weekend, the rest of which I’ll cover in part 2 soon.

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Unexpected problem & solution

Sunday I was about to post that I had a wonderful fish luncheon with some friends, but, surprise, surprise.... my desktop computer just decided not to cooperate. I was a bit stunned that it wasn't booting, since I had used it that same morning. After a few attempts on my part to cope with the old Windows version I had, I decided that the only solution was to reload the operating system while trying to save all my data, some of which was very important to a ongoing project. Without getting into details, in NY I might have had an alternative, but, here, I had to resort to local technical help to save my data. And it worked beautifully!

Instead of lugging the system to the well known store where I bought it 4 years ago, since it was now out of warranty, I decided to use a small local store, which is located literally underneath my apartment. The technician I met, very fluent in English, expressed confidence that he could accomplish what I needed, and he did it, believe or not, within one day and at a very reasonable price. At 10pm he was still on the phone to inform me that he had saved the data, and that he would provide me with newer versions of MS software by the morning.

What a pleasure now to have a fresh system, to be able to download quickly all the software I prefer to use, and to be online again (most of you probably never missed me anyway!).

And now, here are a couple pictures of the friends with whom I enjoyed some excellent fresh fish on Sunday. After a delightful mixed salad, an appetizing dish of crisply fried mullets (called 'barbun' here), the main course was excellent European sea bass('levrek'in Albanian) served with a large variety of grilled vegetables. It was baked, as it's usually done also in Italy, under a mountain of salt. The restaurant owner very kindly spared us from digging into it, and prepared every plate himself. The meal was accompanied by a wonderful Bordeaux.





Friday, April 04, 2008

Tirana air transport expanding

After only one year that the new terminal at Tirana's airport has been put into operation, handling more than 1 million passengers and almost 3,500 tons of cargo in 2007, its facilities are being expanded. The second phase of this airport's modernization is already ongoing and is due to be completed by next year. Meantime, another airline is adding its service to Tirana by next month, augmenting this capital's connection to more than the current 30 foreign destinations.

Albania's NATO membership

It's great to be 'in loco' at this great time for Albania!
















From the many news around the world, here is the press release from:

National Albanian American Council
1133 20th Street, NW, Suite 210, Washington, DC 20036
Tel: (202) 466-6900 | Fax: (202) 466-5593 | www.naac.org
Washington, D.C., April 3, 2008

NAAC Hails Albania’s NATO Membership

The National Albanian American Council hails Albania’s formal invitation to join NATO, and we send our utmost congratulations to the people and all the institutions of Albania on this truly historic day! We thank the NATO members for their vote of confidence, and for recognizing the determination and hard work by the people of Albania. This is also a tremendous leap towards Albania’s eventual membership into the European Union.

Albania’s NATO membership will bring about better security, more freedom of movement, and greater access to financial institutions. It is also a critically important step towards integrating Balkan countries into Euro-Atlantic institutions. Additionally, NAAC congratulates Croatia on its formal invitation and we regret that Macedonia was not offered an invitation at this time. Albania’s ascension into NATO will also strengthen Kosova’s development and bring it closer to eventual NATO and the European Union membership through cross border collaboration and trade.

After almost 50 years of isolation, Albania has joined numerous international financial, military and political institutions within the past few years. Membership to multinational organization offers greater opportunities to build a modern country and it also brings greater responsibilities to continue strengthening democratic institutions and to build a strong judiciary system.

These are historic times when Albanians in Southeast Europe are integrating into Euro-Atlantic institutions, indeed becoming a part of the globalization process. We share in the celebration of Albania’s formal invitation to join NATO, and once more extend our congratulations to Albanians throughout the world!

The National Albanian American Council is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to advocating for Albanians and promoting peace and economic development in the Balkans by fostering democratic policy, promoting respect for human rights, and conducting educational and developmental programs. For more information on the National Albanian American Council visit us on the web at www.naac.org.

Thursday, April 03, 2008

pictures uploading problem

For some unknown reason, uploading pictures into my blog has not been possible in the past 3 days. Need to figure out: why?

Meantime, the last few, beautiful spring days are disappearing again, and the weather is cooler and overcast.

A LATER UPDATE: finally successful in loading pictures again.....without any explanation, except timing (and lots of patience!).

BTW : click on each photo (to enlarge in full screen) if you want to see details -

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

No fool's day

It's for real: finally steady sunshine that has lasted so far a few days. The snow on mount Dajti has disappeared, and the flowers are blooming in town........



The city gardeners are performing their chores.......


while the children's favorite past time of slyding down from in 'pyramid' is in full swing!


Note for my non Albanian friends - this structure was originally built during Albania's dark days and named after the ex dictator. Today it's used for expos and ceremonies of all sorts. It's a cultural center, renamed after the Albanian statesman and patriot: Pjeter Arbnori, who spent 26 years of his life as a political prisoner. He was dubbed "the Mandela of the Balkans" for the length of his internment. He passed away a couple years ago and I feel privileged to have known him.

Friday, March 28, 2008

Tax time everywhere

Before I travel to Albania every spring I make sure to file early my tax return in the U.S. It’s quite a headache to take care of this task every year, which I have faithfully and painstakingly attended to, also on behalf of my organization.

In the U.S. it’s a recognized fact that we could use more streamlined forms, in addition to a complete reorganization of the I.R.S. laws that have become more convoluted over the years, but at least all sorts of information is readily available in print and online, in minute details. From my experience with tax returns and filing also in countries such as Italy and Albania, this chore can become a nightmare for diverse and different reasons. Basically this is due not only to the unnecessary complexity of the rules, but to the lack of documentation, and available information to the general public, but this, of course, provides excellent business for accountants and the (Italian) “commercialisti”.

In Albania there are additional and different type of problems in this field. Some progress has been made and continues to take place, with most laws (some of which poorly worded, not very specific, and quickly approved to make progress) available also online, but not very organized, and thus, difficult and time consuming to research.

Today, conscious of the approaching deadline, I made it my business to go and take care of the city and state taxes here in Tirana, and was happy that it was a beautiful sunny day, and I tell you why.

The city hall tax offices have been recently built outside, and behind the main large building. This annex of various individual, one floor, pre-fabricated small offices form a cluster under the shadow of the old clock tower in the center of the city. Most of them, however, are just big enough to hold the working staff, their desks and files, with open windows to the outside where the public can conduct their business. There is not even a ledger where one can either lay down papers or append a signature. You can imagine the situation during bad weather, where one must additionally hold an umbrella.

I have been in such a situation years ago, for another matter and at a different place, when I also had to wait for the clerk to complete the task at hand while I was standing by the window, with my feet in mud and a puddle of water that had formed underneath it, due to a pothole. In the early 1990’s, when needing some documentation, I also experienced being inside old and decrepit office buildings with no lights in narrow corridors jammed with people – mostly men, and all smoking. Beside suffocation, I also felt like a smoked herring!

By comparison today, the progress looks great. Most government offices have been completely renovated, and they now enjoy beautiful lighting, air conditioning, and heating, with shining marble floors and large hallways. Some exception, such as the above described one, are new recent additions needed to meet today’s demands for additional services unheard of under the dictatorial regime that lasted until 15 years ago.

It was interesting today watching people, with folders under their arms, scrambling for answers, or clarifications, waving papers, while questioning employees, and getting used to the modern democratic system of being tax payers. Even at the banks, nowadays, customers have learned to wait their turn patiently on line, and conduct all sorts of transactions, as individuals or business people that did not exist for over half a century under the old totalitarian government that developed after WWII. Much is still to be done, and it necessary to push forward!

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Crazy March

After days, and days of continuous rain, which hampered the long holiday weekend in Albania, the sun finally decided to show itself for an entire day today. However, this was after a snow shower yesterday morning, that put a new layer of white on Mount Dajti. There were warnings about the difficulty and danger of using the tortuous road to the city of Elbasan. I remember traveling on it a few years ago: it goes through the mountains, with ups and downs, and many curves without any outside railing. I can imagine what it would be also with snow.


Tirana is a bit of a mess when it rains. While the city repaves the streets, the sidewalks are left to be fixed. Many are very uneven, and some even dangerous. Some businesses choose a variety of tiles in front of their stores, but, when wet, they can be very slippery. A taxi driver, the other day, was pointing out to me that even the materials chosen last year to repave the main boulevard is not of the type for safe walking, especially by the elderly, who in Tirana are forever taking strolls every day, in all sort of weather.


Today some were sitting, as usual, on the park benches, enjoying the warmth of the sun, which is also helping the spring flowers to bud out.......


while the "twin towers" of Tirana were proudly displaying their modern shapes against the clear blue sky!

Monday, March 24, 2008

Where is spring?

The bad weather continues to strike all of Europe, and the long holiday weekend has hampered traveling everywhere. Snow has reappeared, even at lower levels, to the delight of skiers, and rains and winds are clobbering trees, while the sea waves are smashing the coasts. The European TV channels are showing a variety of all these conditions, which also caused some deaths, and the weather forecast does not offer great hope for changes soon.

It’s interesting to see San Marco’s square in Venice at night, reflecting gorgeous colors from the beautifully lit buildings, which are under more than one meter of water. Very few people (and probably no tourists) are trashing about in tall boots, and the gondolas are undulating, empty in the wind. Mount Rosa in the northwestern corner of the Alps (at the bottom of which I used to live as a child) is experiencing – 22 degrees Celsius with snow falls (of about 1 ½ feet) also in areas as low as 700m above sea level. The large ferries that connect the Italian ports to the various islands are greatly affected by the bad condition of the seas. One of them, with a full cargo of passengers and 600 vehicles, had to take refuge near a cove of the French island of Corsica, and to remain there for 25 hours before being able to safely complete its journey.

Here, in Tirana, we had a bit of a break on Easter Sunday, with some sunshine, but during the night the rains started again and steadily continued throughout today. I feel fortunate not to have been affected by lack of electricity, which allows me to be warm inside my apartment, where I can enjoy the visits of my friends. Tomorrow, Tuesday, is again a religious holiday, but, by Wednesday, business life is going to jump again…..meantime, I am taking advantage of this seeming lull to handle house chores and the never ending paperwork.

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Quiet Holiday weekend

The long religious holiday weekend has started here in Tirana, and I look forward to it, since it’ll provide for me a respite from official appointments, while allowing me to handle all sorts of paperwork that requires my continuous attention.

Contrary to the U.S., the Easter Sunday festivities in Europe traditionally spill over into Monday and it’s the perfect excuse for people to travel and take a spring break with the whole family. In Italy this Monday is called “Pasquetta” (or small Easter), while, in Albania, this coming Tuesday, I am told, is also a holiday (Novuz ??) in the Bektashi faith. Every religious conviction here is respected, and celebrated in peace with family and friends, with no great fanfare or interference from anyone else.

Unfortunately, this year the weather is not cooperating for great outings in Europe. Almost every country is inundated by continuous rainstorms and low pressure atmospheric conditions, and in many places the snow has reappeared even at lower altitudes. I feel quite comfortable in my apartment thanks to the available electricity, which allows me not only to be online, but to turn on and off my heating units as I need them.

The terrible accident of last Saturday near Tirana (widely covered by international media) that has claimed many lives (~ 20 so far confirmed dead) and produced enormous destruction of properties (> 380 buildings pulverized & 4000 displaced people) has caused a flurry of activities also in government, but it has not damped spirits. Albanian economy is moving along on a positive path, as confirmed also by the foreign press, and yesterday’s article from Sofia is a good compendium of this view.

Once my loyal Albanian friends know that I am here, they come visiting and, as usual, I am enjoying catching up on their news and feelings. Since I am now expecting company, I close this with greetings for everyone, everywhere!

Friday, March 21, 2008

Plusses & Minusses (2)

As I mentioned yesterday, one disadvantage, while traveling, could be troublesome communication, notwithstanding today’s high technology, and larger availability of areas that provide access to online connections. This is especially true in airports, but in the private sector, and lodgings, the situation can be quite a different story.

This is not the case only when traveling abroad, but even within one’s own country. I can attest to that with friends, living in the wealthy and prosperous country side of upstate New York that, unhappily, cannot rely on a good phone system, and even less on a broadband connection for their online computing.

Here in Tirana, last year I entered into a contract for ADSL service with a local company, and, although this was a step up from the intolerable dial-up service used previously, is nothing to rave about. The procedure to establish connection after every shut off is very awkward, and it requires quite often that I fuss around a bit to successfully get online. Additionally, the service staff, especially the non technical one, continues to lack good training in customer handling. When, the other day, I expressed my concerns, also about the seemingly not to speedy connection, to a supervisor (whom I’ve known for years), his reaction left me astounded. Lowering his eyes, he mumbled : “we are used to this way”!!

This exchange was happening while both of us where in the business section of the bank we use, and, coincidentally, its President was passing by and stopped to greet me. BTW, contrary to the above, I always, for years, observed the excellent training of this bank’s personnel, who wears complete uniforms when on duty, and is fluent in more than one language.

Having overhead part of the exchange I was having (although quietly handled), the bank’s President pulled me aside, and literally dragged me into the executive offices of the bank. While informing me that he was concerned since they use the same vendor, he actually wanted me to meet his newest VP for Information Technology. He made me smile when he introduced me to him as: “one of our best auditor: our own client”! Solicited to do so, he gave me the perfect opportunity to also discuss their online service and one of my recent experiences in handling a transaction that was ‘accepted by the bank’, but never went through completion due to an error, but I, as a client, was not automatically informed.

Conclusion: there is always a silver lining behind every dark cloud! Speaking of which, the rain stopped temporarily today and we welcomed some sun in Tirana, but the forecast for the next 10 days is for more rain and cold weather. The Dajti mountains encircling part of the capital display their snow capped peeks amidst the fast moving dark and white clouds. The spring looks like a long way off …but, again, the positive outcome of the current meteorological situation implies a good supply of water and, thus, electricity, that would otherwise be scarce in this ever growing city.

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Plusses & Minusses (1)

Some of the disadvantages of traveling across the oceans are the discomforts of jet lag, and poorer communications, but, in return, many are the advantages of new experiences, and, among these, I always find the one relating to food most intriguing.

Every time I get back to Europe, and I am exposed to local foods, my taste buds are revived by the great flavors especially of fruits and vegetables that don’t have to travel long distances to reach the consumer. Yesterday, here in Tirana, I shopped, as usual, at the open door green market that is a short block from where I lodge. Some of the many stalls are manned by little old ladies in their black robes and white head scarves, who are always enticing the customers with welcoming smiles. Their products look fresh and tempting, and they are so easy to cook. It’s true that they require some old fashioned cleaning before consumption, but, once on your plate, they surely reward you with a smell and taste that is not easily described and is no longer known in most modern societies.

Among the vegetables that I like here there is a type of string bean that I have never seen back in NY. They are about 8/10 inches long, very flat, about one inch wide, and have tiny little beans inside. They cook in no time and don’t need to be steamed first. Carrots are sweet, and deliciously crunchy, and the thin skin, light green, elongated peppers are part of a daily diet among Albanians, along with leeks and eggplants. A special type of the latter is an eggplant the size of a long finger, who is treated with great care and lots of labor to produce a very interesting and delectable dessert!

Citrus fruits are forever present in Albania, and most households grow them in their own backyards. The tiny, little mandarins, have a thin peel and they are very sweet. Lemons are always served at every meal, and their juice is ‘a must’ even in some Albanian soups. Yesterday, my dessert was a cup of strawberries, so red, sweet, and juicy! They brought back memories of when I was a child in Albania.

Our new residence then, a 2 story villa with 14 rooms, was built in the newest part of town, and the planting of our garden and available land was planned by an Italian firm (still in business today) that specialized in horticulture. My mother could not believe the size of the fruits and vegetables that we harvested from this, then ‘virgin’ soil. I can remember large bowls of huge strawberries that mother would prepare almost every day with just some lemon juice (or, instead, a bit of good red wine vinegar – try it it’s delicious!).

After such pleasantries, I should write about some ‘minusses’, but it’s time for some house chores and lunch, and, hopefully, I should get back online with part 2 a little later.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

On the way to Tirana

Traveling these days is a real chore, and one has to put up with many unexpected situations. Besides, unless one is business class (the cost of which is 4 times the one in economy!), there is not much room for a comfortable flight anymore since the planes are usually fully booked and everyone is packed in like sardines.

I left my residence in NY in cloudy and rainy weather, lucky that the forecasted snow showers did not materialize. The Super Shuttle was more than 20 minutes late for my pickup, and it was evident that the driver was a bit disorganized, to say the least. Unusually so, he was also not terribly familiar with JFK airport, did not recognize airlines’ names (that had to be repeated a few times by the passengers in his van), and, to top it off, let me off in the wrong spot (at the arrival instead of departure gates).

Austrian Airline was, as usual, very efficient in checking in and boarding, but it was delayed in departure by over 2 hours due a variety of other problems and the necessity to abide by today’s safety rules. This is not the first time that the luggage of a passenger that did not board the scheduled flight, had to be removed from the plane’s belly (cargo area) before leaving; meantime everyone else just sits and waits on board! This delay was extended on my flight when a passenger on board also fell sick at the last moment and a doctor had to be summoned for help.

I have never liked the 767 jets used by most airlines for transatlantic flights, which have extremely tight seats and leg room. Although, as usual, I got an aisle seat, as I wanted it, I was very uncomfortable during this entire trip for additional reasons that I shall recount below.

One my left, in the window seat, sat a very nice and chatty 24 years old young man, who was returning to his home in Macedonia, after 2 years of study and work in the U.S. One of his back backs was loaded with all sorts of the very latest electronic equipment, and he wanted to keep it right between his legs throughout the entire flight. My veiled attempt to dissuade him from doing so failed because he took into consideration only his own discomfort that he was willing to put up with, never realizing that he was infringing into my leg space, already tight. Not wanting to dampen his spirit, I put up with the situation, He was a bundle of nerves and, as if it was not already evident, he kept verbalizing his feelings of excitement about going home, while fussing around with his ultra sleek digital camera, his ipod, and the tv plane channels. He took numerous photos, watched movies, and listened to music – all this without missing a beat with his legs! Both of us, having wide shoulders, also overlapped our arms. I leave to your imagination how we spent, completely glued to each other, 10 hours (from NY to Vienna)! He never slept a wink, and neither could I since his every move, at every moment, kept me wide eyed and growing more tired by the hour. The flight was fully booked and it was not easy to spend even a few minutes standing, between the carts going back and forth, for dinner and breakfast, and the serving of water and juices that the Austrian stewardesses offer almost on an hourly basis throughout the night.

Arrived late in Vienna, everyone scattered around in transit to many other destinations. Only the passengers going to the northern countries really had to run to their gates to make their connections. It was interesting to see the hordes of people going through the Vienna security system. Everyone seemed well trained, though, in what to do: the passengers stripping themselves quickly, piling their wear, and hand luggage into the appropriate baskets, and the heavily staffed, security personnel on the ball at all times! We went through in no time notwithstanding the enormous crowd, and I proceeded to the gate for the flight to Albania that was due to leave within 45 minutes.

I found another huge crowd at this gate, mostly Albanians, and very little space to maneuver around. Some people were openly upset and on the verge of screaming when they found out that the flight was overbooked. The service staff handled everyone with courtesy, and efficiency, while trying to appease some and to influence others to leave at a later hour, by offering a fairly large sum in euro. Their thoughtfulness and approach in solving the problem they were facing was remarkable; in choosing the people that should make the flight, they even considered who, like me, were already taxed by the long haul having just arrived from overseas.

I found it amusing that many Albanians were not enticed at all by the offer, and found out later on why. Some were in a hurry to reach their families back home, following the horrible explosion that happened on Saturday in the ammunition depot 15 km from Tirana airport, where so far 25 deaths and over 200 people hurt have been counted. This awful accident, seemingly caused by human error in dismantling the many ammo gathered from the war years, has also caused the resignation yesterday of the current Minister of Defense (the buck must stop somewhere!).

The weather upon arrival in Tirana was not great either. It has been raining every day, and it’s still quite cool, especially in the evening. I finally reached my apartment thanks to my old, faithful driver who was waiting for me, as usual, and even helped me turn on the electrical and water systems once inside. After a quick stop at the local store to buy bottled water and milk, some unpacking and a quick shower, I conked out in bed for a couple of hours.

While the local phone service is ok, getting connected to the Internet, using either the dialup or my prepaid high speed service was another chore that I had to postpone until this morning, and will comment upon at another time. Now, onward to some more settling down here for a while!

Saturday, March 08, 2008

On the move again

I cannot explain how February went by me so quickly until I look at my calendar, which is crammed with all sorts of activities and appointments, even discounting the enormous time spent troubleshooting a variety of other problems.

One of these was, unfortunately, the loss of Internet access provided to me by the local cable company. This happened just before a long holiday weekend, thus I did not get serviced until almost a week later. Some TV cable channels were also suffering from intermittent freezing spells, which drove me nuts when I tried to watch some of my favorite programs. My apartment thus fell under a “non-communicative” state for a while, until new wiring was rerun and completely tested.

The Internet connection was reestablished by the replacement of modem and power supply that failed, but, interestingly, some freezing still occurs with certain cable channels. These are the ones that use satellite transmission, which during this time of the year is affected by interferences from solar rays, I am told. It was strange to miss both types of connections so much, especially my high speed connection on which I rely so much daily for all sorts of transactions and research.

Meantime, I also had to run several errands for a sick friend, while undergoing all my annual medical checkups and physical therapy for my right knee, affected by osteo-arthritis and tears in my meniscus. Following an MRI test the orthopedic doctor suggested an arthroscopic intervention, which I have decided to postpone because it should be followed by several weeks of rehab, while, instead I need to travel again. Thanks to the great help of my therapist, I feel that I can face traveling, and so, this week, I have booked my next trip to Albania, with a possible extension into Montenegro.

It’s raining very hard in NY as I am writing and there is also a very dense, and unusual fog today. Lately the weather has been generally sunny, but we have experienced very strong wind and cool temperatures. I expect to find a bit more warmer conditions in Albania. Tonight I just have to turn the clock forward one hour since we are switching to DST much earlier this year.

So, friends, keep tuned for further news from Tirana, as soon as I can re-establish high speed connection after arriving there in another week (and, hopefully, not have to do more troubleshooting!). For now: bye bye, arrivederci, te fala!

Monday, January 28, 2008

BESA & Memory Day

In several countries these days, quite a few events are taking place on the anniversary of the Holocaust (Ha-Shoa).

Albania has been recognized over the years to have played an important role in saving Jews from extermination in Europe during World War II. As documented also at the Jewish museums in Washington and New York, several Albanian individuals and families have been honored for putting their own life at stake to accomplish this deed, which came natural to them because of their own ethical, and ancient code of honor, the “Besa”.

Having met a couple of these people myself, it’s nice to see some of their stories also resurface online.

Tense times

The New Year’s festivities are already forgotten, and Carnival celebrations are already ongoing in many parts of the world, still this is a period of great tensions in a lot of places, even discounting the areas where wars, famine, genocides and ethnic clashes are a daily affair.

Italy, the country of “la dolce vita”, is struggling to create a new administration since it just lost again its last shaky (60th since WWII)) government after two weeks of outlandish behavior worthy of Goldoni’s “Commedia dell’Arte”.

Not too far away some of its neighbors, Spain and Serbia are dealing with new elections; France is investigating a large scale scandal in its financial market, and Kosovo, yearning to reach its independence after so many years of struggles, is making everyone else nervous since this outcome will have a great impact also on other countries under the hegemony of the great powers.

In the U.S., across the Atlantic, the presidential campaign is heating up, while the weaker dollar and the yo-yoing of the securities market and recession fears produce their own share of stressfulness daily.

It behooves all of us, therefore, to seek some of the good things that are happening, and can take place in life, but that are not as evident as what is touted daily in the media for the sake of sensationalism and financial rewards. Each one of us has the power to find a happy medium, and to contribute his/her little share of good into today’s great, immense, global society for the benefit of tomorrow. Thus, with some retrospection, among the usual good intentions for the new year let’s include some positive efforts, not only for ourselves, but also for everyone else’s betterment.