Sunday, May 28, 2006
Baffling processes
Spoiled by the American system that I’ve dealt with for over half a century, I always experience frustrating processes in dealing, for one reason or another, with state or governmental offices in Europe.
In Italy, just in the past 3 years, I had to do summersaults and run around a lot from office to office to obtain documents or clarifications about procedures relating to the settling of an estate, payment of taxes, dealing with utility companies, etc. ….and I didn’t have a problem expressing myself since I speak the language fluently! Albania, not officially part of Europe yet, is no exception. In both countries it’s not possible to get precise information by telephone, ahead of time, so that what’s needed can be prepared and then presented for action where appropriate. One has to find out in person and being “ping ponged” from one place to another in the process. The procedures are convoluted (work simplification is unheard of!), the paperwork unnecessarily complex (forms design at times illogical!), and the staff interaction mostly unsatisfactory (inadequate training and laissez-faire in general!). Feeling powerless, the public yields to these situations and instead of fighting them, when and where it can, looks for more devious ways to offset these inadequacies in order to obtain the needed results; thus sustaining a corrupted way of life that tends to perpetuate and expand itself.
This week, in Tirana, I witnessed what a local has to endure in order to obtain the renewal of a passport. While in the first police district office I was impressed to find a modern numbering system to serve the large crowd, and the form filling was rather expeditious, the situation was quite different at Police headquarters (across town), where one has to go a couple of weeks later to pick up the new document. Six various teller windows, opened only for 1 ½ hour every afternoon, were completely mobbed by the waiting public, six lines deep, screaming and trying to juggle their way to be able to talk to the staff that, undeterred, kept on yelling out names of the fortunate ones whose passport was ready. The interchange was incredibly noisy and chaotic. Many were disappointedly turned away and required to come back with additional documentation the next morning to talk to a ”chief” about how to speed the process. A couple of people I talked to while watching all this happening sadly informed me that they had already spent four days going through this repetitive mode of operation.
The following morning the chief, supposedly available for one hour, appeared at the window 40 minutes late. Realizing that the large crowd couldn’t be accommodated within the time limit, asked a police woman to just jot down the names of those who came and retrieve the additional required documentation. The afternoon process of checking whether the passport was finally available was an exact duplicate experience of the day before. And so life goes on…..
In Italy, just in the past 3 years, I had to do summersaults and run around a lot from office to office to obtain documents or clarifications about procedures relating to the settling of an estate, payment of taxes, dealing with utility companies, etc. ….and I didn’t have a problem expressing myself since I speak the language fluently! Albania, not officially part of Europe yet, is no exception. In both countries it’s not possible to get precise information by telephone, ahead of time, so that what’s needed can be prepared and then presented for action where appropriate. One has to find out in person and being “ping ponged” from one place to another in the process. The procedures are convoluted (work simplification is unheard of!), the paperwork unnecessarily complex (forms design at times illogical!), and the staff interaction mostly unsatisfactory (inadequate training and laissez-faire in general!). Feeling powerless, the public yields to these situations and instead of fighting them, when and where it can, looks for more devious ways to offset these inadequacies in order to obtain the needed results; thus sustaining a corrupted way of life that tends to perpetuate and expand itself.
This week, in Tirana, I witnessed what a local has to endure in order to obtain the renewal of a passport. While in the first police district office I was impressed to find a modern numbering system to serve the large crowd, and the form filling was rather expeditious, the situation was quite different at Police headquarters (across town), where one has to go a couple of weeks later to pick up the new document. Six various teller windows, opened only for 1 ½ hour every afternoon, were completely mobbed by the waiting public, six lines deep, screaming and trying to juggle their way to be able to talk to the staff that, undeterred, kept on yelling out names of the fortunate ones whose passport was ready. The interchange was incredibly noisy and chaotic. Many were disappointedly turned away and required to come back with additional documentation the next morning to talk to a ”chief” about how to speed the process. A couple of people I talked to while watching all this happening sadly informed me that they had already spent four days going through this repetitive mode of operation.
The following morning the chief, supposedly available for one hour, appeared at the window 40 minutes late. Realizing that the large crowd couldn’t be accommodated within the time limit, asked a police woman to just jot down the names of those who came and retrieve the additional required documentation. The afternoon process of checking whether the passport was finally available was an exact duplicate experience of the day before. And so life goes on…..
Monday, May 22, 2006
Scenes of Albanian life in Tirana
In this capital the new modern structural (steel and glass) high raisers of this millennium are mixed in with a variety of old brick buildings, dating back to almost one hundred years ago. Some are originally Albanian (low 1-2 story) single family homes, while others (with 3-4 stories) were built by the Italians before and during their occupation during WWII (late 1930’s - mid 1940’s), followed by the ones during the Russians (1950-60’s), and Chinese (1965-70’s) influences that conditioned the country at the end of the war. This is the situation in many parts of the city, and also in the very center of it. The once private backyards (with grape vines and mandarin trees) are disappearing and living conditions are now crowded everywhere. Few are the remaining 2 story villas of the old fashioned wealthy families, which are now being renovated and can maintain a private garden area around.
Notwithstanding the clusters of assorted constructions and the incredible congestion of vehicular traffic that permeates the city, one can find astonishing quiet in their own quarters. Away from the main boulevards (4-6 lane wide), the movement of cars in the narrow passage ways in between the buildings has to proceed at a snail pace, parking spots are continually negotiated and inventively created, with the humble pedestrians carefully trying not only to avoid the traffic, but to find a few inches where to squeezing their way through. At night, even with open windows, there is complete silence in my apartment, with not a sound to be heard.
Due to closeness of the buildings, however, during the day, when the shutters are rolled up, I cannot help but observe how life in this city is lived. From the glass enclosed balcony of mine, just sitting down at my desk, I can see women appear and disappear often on their open balconies to hang and reposition their laundry, as it dries. They even talk to each other across the way, and some of them lovingly attend to their planted pots that display a variety of flowers.
As I got up this morning and opened my bedroom window I could see a city sanitation truck quietly picking up the garbage that accumulates fast in the open bins that are strategically positioned in the midst of the buildings. The system is the same as the one in Italy, where the metal bins are called “cassonetti”, but the trucks I see here are not specifically built for such a task. They are regular open vans and the men have no choice but to use bare hands and shovels to collect the stuff and throw it on top of the truck. They work in pairs and one of them, from time to time, walks on top of the collected pile to ‘compact it’ with his feet….
Here I never hear the noise produced when the trucks come rolling by for similar collections such as in NY or in Italy, but I do know that these rounds are faithfully made every 2 days. I also see quite often men and women wearing blue or orange uniforms carrying a sack and a picker and broom; they roam around and sweep away and collect paper or trash discarded in the streets. Such are some facets of Albanian life in Tirana these days.
Notwithstanding the clusters of assorted constructions and the incredible congestion of vehicular traffic that permeates the city, one can find astonishing quiet in their own quarters. Away from the main boulevards (4-6 lane wide), the movement of cars in the narrow passage ways in between the buildings has to proceed at a snail pace, parking spots are continually negotiated and inventively created, with the humble pedestrians carefully trying not only to avoid the traffic, but to find a few inches where to squeezing their way through. At night, even with open windows, there is complete silence in my apartment, with not a sound to be heard.
Due to closeness of the buildings, however, during the day, when the shutters are rolled up, I cannot help but observe how life in this city is lived. From the glass enclosed balcony of mine, just sitting down at my desk, I can see women appear and disappear often on their open balconies to hang and reposition their laundry, as it dries. They even talk to each other across the way, and some of them lovingly attend to their planted pots that display a variety of flowers.
As I got up this morning and opened my bedroom window I could see a city sanitation truck quietly picking up the garbage that accumulates fast in the open bins that are strategically positioned in the midst of the buildings. The system is the same as the one in Italy, where the metal bins are called “cassonetti”, but the trucks I see here are not specifically built for such a task. They are regular open vans and the men have no choice but to use bare hands and shovels to collect the stuff and throw it on top of the truck. They work in pairs and one of them, from time to time, walks on top of the collected pile to ‘compact it’ with his feet….
Here I never hear the noise produced when the trucks come rolling by for similar collections such as in NY or in Italy, but I do know that these rounds are faithfully made every 2 days. I also see quite often men and women wearing blue or orange uniforms carrying a sack and a picker and broom; they roam around and sweep away and collect paper or trash discarded in the streets. Such are some facets of Albanian life in Tirana these days.
Agonizing efforts
Can you imagine having to work with a 45 Kbps dial up connection? This is unfortunately what I have to deal, and put up with while in Tirana. The service that I use while here is one of several available, but I can vouch that it’s a real pain to have this type of connection with Internet (how did we ever live with 28K modems only a few years ago?).
Any click, or command, takes forever to respond; what can one do, but stare at the ceiling meanwhile? When I dared mention my frustration to either other users or even the manager of the providing server I was calmly told that this is what they are supplied with here and they just resign themselves to it! Even all the state offices, which now do try to use email in their daily routines, have the same type of service. Only exception may be some special high-speed lines used only by very large businesses, which can afford the related high costs.
Compared to last year, however, there is some improvement. Now, thanks goodness, there is at least electricity available to keep operating for many hours at a stretch, although it’s interesting to notice that the energy output (totally lacking last year for many - 8 to 10 - hours a day) is quite weak! A simple chore such hair drying takes much longer than we are used to in the States. The same goes for cooking with the stoves being electrically operated since there is no gas city wide distribution yet.
Going back to computing, based on my experience of this week, it’s no wonder that a lot of the software used here is unlicensed. The slow connections may not be the only excuse, but it’s certainly easier to just copy one master package rather than spend days to install software onto several machines.
This week I duly purchased online a noted antivirus package only to discover that I was unable to download it via Internet due to the slowness of the connection and the unforeseen, and frequent dropping of the phone line. It tried 3 times unsuccessfully (even in the middle of the night), and lost more than 4 hours in the process! The ISP provider kindly obliged me when I complained. I had, however, to move myself to their premises, where I finally got hold of my purchase, by using 2 different workstations there: one to download the software, and the second one to burn the CD I provided so that I could carry it at home.
However, my anguish was not over!! It took another 2 hours to install the package and update it, as routinely necessary, online, by downloading the latest additions and the virus definition file. Whew!
What it may take 15 minutes in the US to accomplish, here it took most of one day. Bottom line: how can anyone be efficiently working in such an environment? The locals are used to this slow pace, but for me these and similar undertakings are agonizing and exasperating experiences!
Any click, or command, takes forever to respond; what can one do, but stare at the ceiling meanwhile? When I dared mention my frustration to either other users or even the manager of the providing server I was calmly told that this is what they are supplied with here and they just resign themselves to it! Even all the state offices, which now do try to use email in their daily routines, have the same type of service. Only exception may be some special high-speed lines used only by very large businesses, which can afford the related high costs.
Compared to last year, however, there is some improvement. Now, thanks goodness, there is at least electricity available to keep operating for many hours at a stretch, although it’s interesting to notice that the energy output (totally lacking last year for many - 8 to 10 - hours a day) is quite weak! A simple chore such hair drying takes much longer than we are used to in the States. The same goes for cooking with the stoves being electrically operated since there is no gas city wide distribution yet.
Going back to computing, based on my experience of this week, it’s no wonder that a lot of the software used here is unlicensed. The slow connections may not be the only excuse, but it’s certainly easier to just copy one master package rather than spend days to install software onto several machines.
This week I duly purchased online a noted antivirus package only to discover that I was unable to download it via Internet due to the slowness of the connection and the unforeseen, and frequent dropping of the phone line. It tried 3 times unsuccessfully (even in the middle of the night), and lost more than 4 hours in the process! The ISP provider kindly obliged me when I complained. I had, however, to move myself to their premises, where I finally got hold of my purchase, by using 2 different workstations there: one to download the software, and the second one to burn the CD I provided so that I could carry it at home.
However, my anguish was not over!! It took another 2 hours to install the package and update it, as routinely necessary, online, by downloading the latest additions and the virus definition file. Whew!
What it may take 15 minutes in the US to accomplish, here it took most of one day. Bottom line: how can anyone be efficiently working in such an environment? The locals are used to this slow pace, but for me these and similar undertakings are agonizing and exasperating experiences!
Thursday, May 18, 2006
Visiting and paper shuffling
Yesterday I received two courtesy visits. In the late morning an old friend, whom I consider like a brother, came to spend some time with me and catch up with our mutual news. Our parents, now long deceased, used to be close friends their entire lives, and we, as babies, used to play a lot together way back then. WWII forced our lives to take separate paths and this went on for 54 years. It was a very emotional moment when we rediscovered each other upon my return to Tirana for the first time in 1993. Now, whenever we have the chance to get together, we update ourselves, try to forecast the future for the younger generations, and talk a lot about the past, especially about the history of Albania, much of which I’m learning through him, who has lived every moment of it, throughout his entire life inside the country. Time flies when we chat and we even forget to eat.
The other visit by a friend of recent years was in the late afternoon. This is the time when people who work take the time to get off from the daily routines. They usually have late lunches (especially state employees, whose work day ends at 3pm); consequently, they dine late. As in many European countries, the in between hours are dedicated to “la dolce vita”, enjoying a stroll, stopping at a café’ for a chat, or visiting family and/or friends.
Today all my activities were mostly sedentary. At the computer before a brief lunch at home, and then off to the National Library where I planned researching some old historical documents that I’m interested in. Spent 3 tiring hours sifting through dusty bounded volumes of the “State Official Gazette”(1940’s). These collections are invaluable for their content and are perused on a daily basis by loads of people, trying to collect documentation, history, and references about their families, their properties, and the laws that affected them in the past.
It's an exhausting, but fascinating trip into the past, where one can visualize the trials and tribulations of the entire population under the communist regime. The records are incredibly detailed in many cases: from the list of actual confiscation of real estate properties, to the home contents of the persecuted people (sold at public auction); from the verdicts of condemnation of political dissidents, to the military decorations of the soldiers and officers that distinguished themselves to defend the country from the abhorred foreigners.....the list goes on and on, the aging pages are heavily marked in pencil or pen, a lot of them are torn, and falling apart. I guess, however, that these documents are preserved also in microfiche format, as I know are the confiscated personal documents of the people that were arrested, tried, and imprisoned for years. A large part of the Albanian population went through these processes, and entire families ended up spending their lives in concentration camps. There their children were born, their parents and grandparents died, and many never knew what it means to live in a free world!
Enough of reminiscences for one day....Was glad to leave the stuffy library, which was filled to capacity by all sorts of people, young and old, all intent into their various diggings...and to get back into the nice afternoon breeze. The sun was starting to set and the large central square, named after the national hero “Skanderbeg”, was in full swing, and I could not resist taking pictures of the well known structures (see above) that surround this wide open area.
The other visit by a friend of recent years was in the late afternoon. This is the time when people who work take the time to get off from the daily routines. They usually have late lunches (especially state employees, whose work day ends at 3pm); consequently, they dine late. As in many European countries, the in between hours are dedicated to “la dolce vita”, enjoying a stroll, stopping at a café’ for a chat, or visiting family and/or friends.
Today all my activities were mostly sedentary. At the computer before a brief lunch at home, and then off to the National Library where I planned researching some old historical documents that I’m interested in. Spent 3 tiring hours sifting through dusty bounded volumes of the “State Official Gazette”(1940’s). These collections are invaluable for their content and are perused on a daily basis by loads of people, trying to collect documentation, history, and references about their families, their properties, and the laws that affected them in the past.
It's an exhausting, but fascinating trip into the past, where one can visualize the trials and tribulations of the entire population under the communist regime. The records are incredibly detailed in many cases: from the list of actual confiscation of real estate properties, to the home contents of the persecuted people (sold at public auction); from the verdicts of condemnation of political dissidents, to the military decorations of the soldiers and officers that distinguished themselves to defend the country from the abhorred foreigners.....the list goes on and on, the aging pages are heavily marked in pencil or pen, a lot of them are torn, and falling apart. I guess, however, that these documents are preserved also in microfiche format, as I know are the confiscated personal documents of the people that were arrested, tried, and imprisoned for years. A large part of the Albanian population went through these processes, and entire families ended up spending their lives in concentration camps. There their children were born, their parents and grandparents died, and many never knew what it means to live in a free world!
Enough of reminiscences for one day....Was glad to leave the stuffy library, which was filled to capacity by all sorts of people, young and old, all intent into their various diggings...and to get back into the nice afternoon breeze. The sun was starting to set and the large central square, named after the national hero “Skanderbeg”, was in full swing, and I could not resist taking pictures of the well known structures (see above) that surround this wide open area.
Tuesday, May 16, 2006
Hot day
A real hot day in every sense of the word.
Awaken early by a business phone call, I Immediately felt that the temperature outside must have been higher today because I began to sweat just moving around my apartment. By the time I went out on errands, there was real (after a week of rain) heat going on, as only in Albania can be, because the sun here seems to be closer than elsewhere. The countless outdoor cafés were displaying their myriad of colorful umbrellas and, as usual, many are people that fill these spots at all hours of the day and night. The ones that couldn’t find a place to sit, were carrying on their conversations under the shade of the trees that line every boulevard of Tirana.
As I was traveling by car later on in the day, going from appointment to appointment. I observed the recent positive changes along the roads repaved since last year, the additional constructions of office and apartment buildings, the extra planting of new trees along the long inland waterway (called “Lana”) that crosses the entire city. Only a few years ago this canal was a terribly smelly site with stagnating water, full of discarded garbage, with illegally erected one story buildings all along its path. Now all the constructions are gone (destroyed), its bed has been cleaned up of the debris, its deep margins are fully covered by beautiful green lawns, and its very long sidewalks are lined up with lovely young plantings and old European type street lamps (candelabra style). A nice sight day or night.
After a meeting at midday during which I heated the atmosphere with strong, but ethical, remarks that I felt needed about the conducted business, I went shopping at the great supermarket at the outskirts of the capital. Two of the smaller supermarkets that were available last year in town, and not too far from my apartment, are currently closed for unknown reason, although someone hinted that this was due to non payment of bills, and their consequent bankruptcy. The large, and spacious, American style supermarket was not as busy as during the weekend, thus, I was able to shop quickly and be served with extra attention. The meat was cut European style and to order (as it was in my youth), the vegetable were fresh, the fruits ripe and tasty, and the goodies available all the way around. I really went to town and after cooking up a storm at home, I had a great dinner.
It’s still hot into the late evening, as I am writing this. When I closed the window shades tonight a very bright satellite was shining high up in the sky right outside of my balcony, and I wondered......could it be the same one I see from my kitchen window every evening in NY around 11pm in the south-eastern skies?
Awaken early by a business phone call, I Immediately felt that the temperature outside must have been higher today because I began to sweat just moving around my apartment. By the time I went out on errands, there was real (after a week of rain) heat going on, as only in Albania can be, because the sun here seems to be closer than elsewhere. The countless outdoor cafés were displaying their myriad of colorful umbrellas and, as usual, many are people that fill these spots at all hours of the day and night. The ones that couldn’t find a place to sit, were carrying on their conversations under the shade of the trees that line every boulevard of Tirana.
As I was traveling by car later on in the day, going from appointment to appointment. I observed the recent positive changes along the roads repaved since last year, the additional constructions of office and apartment buildings, the extra planting of new trees along the long inland waterway (called “Lana”) that crosses the entire city. Only a few years ago this canal was a terribly smelly site with stagnating water, full of discarded garbage, with illegally erected one story buildings all along its path. Now all the constructions are gone (destroyed), its bed has been cleaned up of the debris, its deep margins are fully covered by beautiful green lawns, and its very long sidewalks are lined up with lovely young plantings and old European type street lamps (candelabra style). A nice sight day or night.
After a meeting at midday during which I heated the atmosphere with strong, but ethical, remarks that I felt needed about the conducted business, I went shopping at the great supermarket at the outskirts of the capital. Two of the smaller supermarkets that were available last year in town, and not too far from my apartment, are currently closed for unknown reason, although someone hinted that this was due to non payment of bills, and their consequent bankruptcy. The large, and spacious, American style supermarket was not as busy as during the weekend, thus, I was able to shop quickly and be served with extra attention. The meat was cut European style and to order (as it was in my youth), the vegetable were fresh, the fruits ripe and tasty, and the goodies available all the way around. I really went to town and after cooking up a storm at home, I had a great dinner.
It’s still hot into the late evening, as I am writing this. When I closed the window shades tonight a very bright satellite was shining high up in the sky right outside of my balcony, and I wondered......could it be the same one I see from my kitchen window every evening in NY around 11pm in the south-eastern skies?
Saturday, May 13, 2006
It happened on the way.......
Funny day, today!
After not feeling well all week, and finally enjoying some sunshine in a calm Saturday in Tirana, I decided to take it easy and relaxed myself with a soothing pedicure at a new lovely beauty salon recommended by a friend. I was prompt for my 11 o’clock appointment and so was the young lady owner, who had just finished blow drying another lady. At the entrance, as she was greeting me, I also hear my name called by another customer, who was very surprised to see me there. I’ve known the other lady and have followed, for quite a few years now, her career in the banking system here that led her to become a VP of marketing for one of the largest financial institution in this capital. This was the first surprise of the day, but another interesting experience followed soon thereafter.
A few days ago my attention was attracted to an eloquent blog of a Canadian woman that claimed to be living in Tirana and enjoying very much, with her husband and dog, her stay here. From the little hints in her comments and some of the beautiful pictures she included in her blog, I got a strong feeling that she might be living in the same building where I also reside while here. Sure enough, today, my impression was confirmed as correct. As I was entering the elevator to come home, after a leisure lunch out, she was exiting it to walk her dog and I recognized them both from the pictures in her blog. Surely it’s a small, small world out there, made even smaller by the Internet connections!!
Today I had a hot lunch at a nearby restaurant that I patronize from time to time when in Tirana because of its convenient (for me) location, and, every time with a big smile, I am greeted by name by one of the young waiters that is always eager to serve me. As an aside, I wish to mention an interesting (for Americans) fact that, in a country such as this, unfortunately still plagued by corruption at many levels, no tip is expected when eating out. Most people just round off to the nearest dollar the total as presented, but the service, regardless, is always very pleasantly performed.
Today my waiter encouraged me to eat outdoors, and proceeded to show me the great inside courtyard recently renovated by the owner. This restful and peaceful area, recessed from the street, includes bar and restaurant facilities, a huge outdoor pizza oven, a functioning well, and swinging lounges. To complete the serenity of this scene there are several hanging cages with colorful birds, green trestles and potted exotic plants, a display of ancient artifacts and tools, as you can see from the pictures below. The air is filled only by the low key chit chat of the few customers, the chirping of the birds, and the cooing of a pair of large and fat pigeons that feel very comfortable roaming around, undisturbed, in search of more food. Europeans in general, even if poor, really know how to carve out some enjoying moments in their daily lives. In surroundings like these the troubles of the world seem so far away!
After not feeling well all week, and finally enjoying some sunshine in a calm Saturday in Tirana, I decided to take it easy and relaxed myself with a soothing pedicure at a new lovely beauty salon recommended by a friend. I was prompt for my 11 o’clock appointment and so was the young lady owner, who had just finished blow drying another lady. At the entrance, as she was greeting me, I also hear my name called by another customer, who was very surprised to see me there. I’ve known the other lady and have followed, for quite a few years now, her career in the banking system here that led her to become a VP of marketing for one of the largest financial institution in this capital. This was the first surprise of the day, but another interesting experience followed soon thereafter.
A few days ago my attention was attracted to an eloquent blog of a Canadian woman that claimed to be living in Tirana and enjoying very much, with her husband and dog, her stay here. From the little hints in her comments and some of the beautiful pictures she included in her blog, I got a strong feeling that she might be living in the same building where I also reside while here. Sure enough, today, my impression was confirmed as correct. As I was entering the elevator to come home, after a leisure lunch out, she was exiting it to walk her dog and I recognized them both from the pictures in her blog. Surely it’s a small, small world out there, made even smaller by the Internet connections!!
Today I had a hot lunch at a nearby restaurant that I patronize from time to time when in Tirana because of its convenient (for me) location, and, every time with a big smile, I am greeted by name by one of the young waiters that is always eager to serve me. As an aside, I wish to mention an interesting (for Americans) fact that, in a country such as this, unfortunately still plagued by corruption at many levels, no tip is expected when eating out. Most people just round off to the nearest dollar the total as presented, but the service, regardless, is always very pleasantly performed.
Today my waiter encouraged me to eat outdoors, and proceeded to show me the great inside courtyard recently renovated by the owner. This restful and peaceful area, recessed from the street, includes bar and restaurant facilities, a huge outdoor pizza oven, a functioning well, and swinging lounges. To complete the serenity of this scene there are several hanging cages with colorful birds, green trestles and potted exotic plants, a display of ancient artifacts and tools, as you can see from the pictures below. The air is filled only by the low key chit chat of the few customers, the chirping of the birds, and the cooing of a pair of large and fat pigeons that feel very comfortable roaming around, undisturbed, in search of more food. Europeans in general, even if poor, really know how to carve out some enjoying moments in their daily lives. In surroundings like these the troubles of the world seem so far away!
Thursday, May 11, 2006
Dismal weather
So far this week the weather has been incredibly uncooperative. Torrential rain in cold and clammy mornings, followed by a few hours of real hot sunshine by midday, and again dark clouds hanging overhead in breezy late afternoons and evenings. It does not take very much for meteorological changes to speed across this tiny country of Albania, covered by three tiers of mountains spanning from north to south for ¾ of its size, with the balance forming the narrow stretch of plains along the coast facing the Adriatic, Ionian and Mediterranean seas.
My body is in real pain between sweats and chills, and the result is a beauty of a chest cold, which is making me miserable and sluggish. Must recuperate fast due to the expected busy time ahead!
My body is in real pain between sweats and chills, and the result is a beauty of a chest cold, which is making me miserable and sluggish. Must recuperate fast due to the expected busy time ahead!
Sunday, May 07, 2006
Sunday, a quiet, visiting day
Planned only a couple of things for today, but more popped up along the way.
After exchanging some money into the local Albanian currency (leks), I paid a visit to the enormous cemetery in the outskirts of Tirana, where my father and uncle are buried. Although there are no privately owned plots (all land is still property of the state and there are no individual concessions), local people have now gone out of their way to build mausoleums and marbled tombs, none of which were permitted during the half a century of communist dictatorship, when just small markers were installed by the families to remember their plot’s location. This cemetery alone consists of about 5 sections, as large as any similar ones in the US, and the long road leading to it now is flanked on both sides by loads of monuments builders and flower shops!
When, in 1995, I was lucky to find where my uncle was buried (in 1953, after 7 years of political imprisonment) there was no available marble for headstones. I was unaware of this fact, but, unbeknown to me, the funeral parlor I dealt with then, traveled long distances to find one piece to be inscribed with what I wanted.
At that time I had arranged for my father’s remains to be brought back to Albania from Turkey, where he had died in exile 55 years earlier. I wanted the two brothers to be together in death, just as they were always in life, thus the current inscription (under their names and dates of birth and death), translated from Albanian, says: “For their country, united in death as in life”.
The next visit today was to a very modern, huge shopping mall, where one can find anything that’s desired, from clothing boutiques, to wine stores, and supermarkets stocked with all sorts of goodies, including foreign imports of all kind. I just wanted to buy some staples, but by the time I finished, the dark clouds that had formed within one hour, let loose not only torrential rain, but hale galore, with some pieces the size of an egg! Back home with all my stuff I had to change since I was completely drenched and turned the heat on not to shiver! By 5pm the sun reappeared in full!
Earlier in the day, I fortuitously met an acquaintance in the street, and he wasted no time in inviting me to go to a nearby office where a lawyer friend of his would be interested in meeting me. Apparently he is initiating an additional activity, such as publishing a new type of newspaper dealing with some of the 'unjust' situations that the country is still facing and that remain 'unsolved' to today notwithstanding the past dozen years of democratization. I obliged, although pressed for time, and we agreed to meet again to discuss further a possible collaboration.
In the late afternoon I received the visit of another young friend, who brought me lovely mandarins and beautiful roses from her garden. We talked into the evening about a lot of things and agreed that there is still so much to do here, if everyone would collaborate and would think more globally rather than individually. Now, however, I’d better prepare for tomorrow when I’ll be fully immersed in my work and pre planned meetings related to the projects I’m involved with.
After exchanging some money into the local Albanian currency (leks), I paid a visit to the enormous cemetery in the outskirts of Tirana, where my father and uncle are buried. Although there are no privately owned plots (all land is still property of the state and there are no individual concessions), local people have now gone out of their way to build mausoleums and marbled tombs, none of which were permitted during the half a century of communist dictatorship, when just small markers were installed by the families to remember their plot’s location. This cemetery alone consists of about 5 sections, as large as any similar ones in the US, and the long road leading to it now is flanked on both sides by loads of monuments builders and flower shops!
When, in 1995, I was lucky to find where my uncle was buried (in 1953, after 7 years of political imprisonment) there was no available marble for headstones. I was unaware of this fact, but, unbeknown to me, the funeral parlor I dealt with then, traveled long distances to find one piece to be inscribed with what I wanted.
At that time I had arranged for my father’s remains to be brought back to Albania from Turkey, where he had died in exile 55 years earlier. I wanted the two brothers to be together in death, just as they were always in life, thus the current inscription (under their names and dates of birth and death), translated from Albanian, says: “For their country, united in death as in life”.
The next visit today was to a very modern, huge shopping mall, where one can find anything that’s desired, from clothing boutiques, to wine stores, and supermarkets stocked with all sorts of goodies, including foreign imports of all kind. I just wanted to buy some staples, but by the time I finished, the dark clouds that had formed within one hour, let loose not only torrential rain, but hale galore, with some pieces the size of an egg! Back home with all my stuff I had to change since I was completely drenched and turned the heat on not to shiver! By 5pm the sun reappeared in full!
Earlier in the day, I fortuitously met an acquaintance in the street, and he wasted no time in inviting me to go to a nearby office where a lawyer friend of his would be interested in meeting me. Apparently he is initiating an additional activity, such as publishing a new type of newspaper dealing with some of the 'unjust' situations that the country is still facing and that remain 'unsolved' to today notwithstanding the past dozen years of democratization. I obliged, although pressed for time, and we agreed to meet again to discuss further a possible collaboration.
In the late afternoon I received the visit of another young friend, who brought me lovely mandarins and beautiful roses from her garden. We talked into the evening about a lot of things and agreed that there is still so much to do here, if everyone would collaborate and would think more globally rather than individually. Now, however, I’d better prepare for tomorrow when I’ll be fully immersed in my work and pre planned meetings related to the projects I’m involved with.
Saturday, May 06, 2006
On the move again
Traveling to Albania, using Austrian & Tyrolean Airlines for the first time, was an excellent experience, although, generally speaking, traveling today is no longer a pleasure, but a real chore. The flights are totally booked, the taxes on the tickets consist of almost 50% of the total fare, and the seats are smaller and very restricting on the transatlantic routes, where 767 aircrafts are used.
Somehow I expected Austrian airline to be well organized and I was not disappointed. There is usually some delay leaving from JFK airport due to the congested New York traffic, and all airlines seems to be equally affected upon departure. This was also the case for the Austrian, late evening, flight I boarded for Vienna, where I was supposed to have an hour to connect with the Tyrolean flight for Tirana. To be frank I was a bit nervous when the departure from NY was delayed by 45 minutes, but the captain forecasted correctly the arrival in Vienna, almost to the minute. Many are the connections made here and when I stepped out of the plane (1/2 later than the regularly scheduled time) I was surprised to find not one, but 8 Austrian airport personnel waiting to quickly direct all passengers to the various gates.
Austrian airline web site that I had read carefully before leaving NY, promised connections within 30 minutes for all flights, and they were certainly right! This, I believe, is due not only to the well programmed schedules, but for the very judicious assignment of this airport’s gates. Normally, as I have traveled thru Italy, France, and England, arriving from the States is usually at the opposite end of the airport for the European connecting flights, because they separate the transatlantic from the Schengen traffic areas, thus forcing the passengers to cross the entire airport to check in at the next flight. But this apparently is not the case in Vienna! The gate for Albania, and other neighboring countries was 3 minutes away; thus, the remaining ½ hour for the connection was plentiful!
Another wonderful surprise, and the first of this kind: on the Tyrolean plane to Tirana (of the old propeller type, but looking very clean and almost new!) the announcements were made in 3 languages, which included Albanian! This is what I call ‘knowing how to do business’, and that’s why probably almost 2/3 of the passengers on my flight from NY were Albanian. Several of them were elderly ladies, who needed assistance, which was provided, as I observed, very efficiently at both NY and Vienna gates.
At Tirana’s Rinas airport (now named ‘Mother Theresa’), where German and American companies are handling a large modernization program, I found lots of new construction ongoing for a very large, modern structure and architecturally designed terminal, of the same type as other European ones. The new building’s skeleton is soaring toward the sky, where there was waste land only 4 months ago. It’s a must since several are now the airlines servicing Albania. Among the latest one: British Airways; however, a passenger arriving from the US must change airport in London to catch the local flight to Albania.
Upon arrival at my rented apartment/office in Tirana, I found my friends had already stacked my fridge with some food and drinks; thus I was able to just relax, catch up with some local news, and then go out to dinner with them. A month worth of work is expecting me now, and I am ready for it!
Somehow I expected Austrian airline to be well organized and I was not disappointed. There is usually some delay leaving from JFK airport due to the congested New York traffic, and all airlines seems to be equally affected upon departure. This was also the case for the Austrian, late evening, flight I boarded for Vienna, where I was supposed to have an hour to connect with the Tyrolean flight for Tirana. To be frank I was a bit nervous when the departure from NY was delayed by 45 minutes, but the captain forecasted correctly the arrival in Vienna, almost to the minute. Many are the connections made here and when I stepped out of the plane (1/2 later than the regularly scheduled time) I was surprised to find not one, but 8 Austrian airport personnel waiting to quickly direct all passengers to the various gates.
Austrian airline web site that I had read carefully before leaving NY, promised connections within 30 minutes for all flights, and they were certainly right! This, I believe, is due not only to the well programmed schedules, but for the very judicious assignment of this airport’s gates. Normally, as I have traveled thru Italy, France, and England, arriving from the States is usually at the opposite end of the airport for the European connecting flights, because they separate the transatlantic from the Schengen traffic areas, thus forcing the passengers to cross the entire airport to check in at the next flight. But this apparently is not the case in Vienna! The gate for Albania, and other neighboring countries was 3 minutes away; thus, the remaining ½ hour for the connection was plentiful!
Another wonderful surprise, and the first of this kind: on the Tyrolean plane to Tirana (of the old propeller type, but looking very clean and almost new!) the announcements were made in 3 languages, which included Albanian! This is what I call ‘knowing how to do business’, and that’s why probably almost 2/3 of the passengers on my flight from NY were Albanian. Several of them were elderly ladies, who needed assistance, which was provided, as I observed, very efficiently at both NY and Vienna gates.
At Tirana’s Rinas airport (now named ‘Mother Theresa’), where German and American companies are handling a large modernization program, I found lots of new construction ongoing for a very large, modern structure and architecturally designed terminal, of the same type as other European ones. The new building’s skeleton is soaring toward the sky, where there was waste land only 4 months ago. It’s a must since several are now the airlines servicing Albania. Among the latest one: British Airways; however, a passenger arriving from the US must change airport in London to catch the local flight to Albania.
Upon arrival at my rented apartment/office in Tirana, I found my friends had already stacked my fridge with some food and drinks; thus I was able to just relax, catch up with some local news, and then go out to dinner with them. A month worth of work is expecting me now, and I am ready for it!
Monday, April 24, 2006
School assignments?
Spring activities
As the weather is finally emerging from the winter doldrums, so are my daily activities, which are intensifying at a pretty fast pace. Cold snaps still come and go, but New York is overall enjoying gorgeous sunshine and a few real hot days, which have given way to a splendid burst of new shoots on the trees and full blooming of planted flowers. Some city streets this month can actually compete with Washington cherry blossoms, believe or not!
While accomplishing several desk and computer related tasks, in addition to the usual daily household chores, I try to squeeze in some aqua aerobics sessions at the local (Olympic size) pool at least 3 times a week, and, in alternative days, some physical exercises at home. All tax returns have, finally, been completed and mailed out, and my spring traveling plans are now also in place.
Next month will be spent again in Albania, where, as usual, I try to speed up some of the ongoing personal and work related projects. This trip will see me use for the first time Austrian Airlines, which offer good deals in both price and traveling time. By the way, their online site is one of the best designed, user friendly, practical, and most informative that I have seen so far on the web in this line of business.
While accomplishing several desk and computer related tasks, in addition to the usual daily household chores, I try to squeeze in some aqua aerobics sessions at the local (Olympic size) pool at least 3 times a week, and, in alternative days, some physical exercises at home. All tax returns have, finally, been completed and mailed out, and my spring traveling plans are now also in place.
Next month will be spent again in Albania, where, as usual, I try to speed up some of the ongoing personal and work related projects. This trip will see me use for the first time Austrian Airlines, which offer good deals in both price and traveling time. By the way, their online site is one of the best designed, user friendly, practical, and most informative that I have seen so far on the web in this line of business.
Wednesday, April 05, 2006
Tax woes
It seems incredible not having had the time to keep up this diary on a more frequent basis lately. In reality, one can find the time, if one wants to. So, what’s the problem? In my case a lack of motivation, I guess, due to really nothing much worth documenting. Daily routines repeat themselves, and tax work preparation is quite boring! Some of the latter is actually a maddening experience these days.
For the past couple of years I decided not to use the services of an accountant or tax preparer, and do the job myself. I had to smile when the other evening I heard a reportage on tv about the inefficiency and incompetence of these agents, which should be licensed. They spring up instead everywhere, at tax time every year, and most of them are not certified in this field. What I experienced in the past few years, and what made me drop their services, is the series of mistakes made, the lack of work quality, and the high fees charged.
So far, so good; although the state forms to be used this year are horrific. The modifications applied to the 2005 returns have multiplied the number of pages in the main form and the published instructions contain more and more worksheets, with references and cross references to drive anyone nuts! Whatever happened to work simplification that was in vogue more than 30 years ago, way before the advent of computerization and electronic processing?
Today I finally completed my paperwork and I sent my tax returns on their way. This, however, does not conclude this task for the year…Now,I have to tackle the returns for the business I manage. Alas, a few more days of tedious work! Thank goodness I am alternating it with aqua aerobics at the local pool and enjoying the beautiful sunshine that is blessing New York, which is now again in full bloom!
For the past couple of years I decided not to use the services of an accountant or tax preparer, and do the job myself. I had to smile when the other evening I heard a reportage on tv about the inefficiency and incompetence of these agents, which should be licensed. They spring up instead everywhere, at tax time every year, and most of them are not certified in this field. What I experienced in the past few years, and what made me drop their services, is the series of mistakes made, the lack of work quality, and the high fees charged.
So far, so good; although the state forms to be used this year are horrific. The modifications applied to the 2005 returns have multiplied the number of pages in the main form and the published instructions contain more and more worksheets, with references and cross references to drive anyone nuts! Whatever happened to work simplification that was in vogue more than 30 years ago, way before the advent of computerization and electronic processing?
Today I finally completed my paperwork and I sent my tax returns on their way. This, however, does not conclude this task for the year…Now,I have to tackle the returns for the business I manage. Alas, a few more days of tedious work! Thank goodness I am alternating it with aqua aerobics at the local pool and enjoying the beautiful sunshine that is blessing New York, which is now again in full bloom!
Saturday, March 11, 2006
Uneventful time
A month has gone by since my last entry, but this time was actually uneventful. Nothing worth mentioning happened. Daily routines were ongoing and the weather was not conducive to special or unusual activities. Indoors I've always loads of things to do anyway, and never see the end of tasks!
Yesterday, finally, the sunshine got warmer (a change of more than 25 F. degrees within a few hours!). It's amazing how physical energy is affected by weather. I feel more invigorated although I had continued to exercise all along anyway at the indoor olympic size pool where I keep a membership all year around.
Meantime... tax time is quickly approaching and I must roll up my sleeves and get to work on what needs reporting. Boring, boring tasks, but I've no choice!
Yesterday, finally, the sunshine got warmer (a change of more than 25 F. degrees within a few hours!). It's amazing how physical energy is affected by weather. I feel more invigorated although I had continued to exercise all along anyway at the indoor olympic size pool where I keep a membership all year around.
Meantime... tax time is quickly approaching and I must roll up my sleeves and get to work on what needs reporting. Boring, boring tasks, but I've no choice!
Sunday, February 12, 2006
Moody weather
After a mild beginning of this year, February has finally decided to show what winter is all about in NY: snow blowing all over, propelled by strong winds. Flurries started yesterday afternoon and the snowfall has not yet stopped. They are talking about 23 inches so far.
This brings back memories of my early years (1950’s) in this city, when snow storms occurred quite often between the end of January and mid February, and stopped completely this metropolis from functioning. In those days I remember walking in the middle of the street, blinded by the drifts, but unconcerned about vehicular traffic that was non existent for hours. I was very young then and enjoyed the experience, which was just a replication of my life while growing up in northern Italy, at the foot of the Alps, with Switzerland just a few miles away, on the other side. The winters there lasted several months, usually from October through April; the home heating was restricted to just certain rooms, and we slept in icy cold bedrooms, but our bodies were acclimatized to this environment.
Then, I was marveling at snowfall, while running outdoors wrapped in heavy woolen clothing; now, I prefer enjoying, from the inside of my warm and cozy apartment, the white lace and soft blankets that Mother Nature builds on the trees and fire escapes of the brownstones just outside of one of my windows. This impersonal and chaotic city allows us blessings, even during a bad storm, that are not present mostly everywhere else. We rarely have lack of energy, food, or communications that impacts instead such a large portion of this planet, and we should remind ourselves of this luck when we feel like complaining or are unhappy about something that may have not gone completely right!
This brings back memories of my early years (1950’s) in this city, when snow storms occurred quite often between the end of January and mid February, and stopped completely this metropolis from functioning. In those days I remember walking in the middle of the street, blinded by the drifts, but unconcerned about vehicular traffic that was non existent for hours. I was very young then and enjoyed the experience, which was just a replication of my life while growing up in northern Italy, at the foot of the Alps, with Switzerland just a few miles away, on the other side. The winters there lasted several months, usually from October through April; the home heating was restricted to just certain rooms, and we slept in icy cold bedrooms, but our bodies were acclimatized to this environment.
Then, I was marveling at snowfall, while running outdoors wrapped in heavy woolen clothing; now, I prefer enjoying, from the inside of my warm and cozy apartment, the white lace and soft blankets that Mother Nature builds on the trees and fire escapes of the brownstones just outside of one of my windows. This impersonal and chaotic city allows us blessings, even during a bad storm, that are not present mostly everywhere else. We rarely have lack of energy, food, or communications that impacts instead such a large portion of this planet, and we should remind ourselves of this luck when we feel like complaining or are unhappy about something that may have not gone completely right!
Sunday, January 22, 2006
Blues
January is, as usual, a very dull month. The excitement of the holidays over, it's time for serious thinking, not only about the conscious, or unconscious, propositions made in view of a new year, but also the perfect occasion to reorganize thoughts and things……..
This feeling has always been present in me every year, however, for some unexplainable reason, this year I am lacking the urge to put it into effect. I have resumed my physical exercises and am busy with all sorts of things on a daily basis; nonetheless, I feel unsatisfied with progress at the end of each day. I am swamped under loads of paperwork accumulated during and after my travels abroad, as well as by the backlog of projects that continues to increase. I must stop and take time to evaluate. Could it be the ….‘aging’ cause? I hope not! Or, may be, the need of a vacation, and some time off and away from everything? I must admit, the latter is a tempting contemplation, after years of non stop activities at home and abroad….! The dual aspects of my zodiac sign (Gemini) are rearing their heads upward and I must find a way to balance them! Any suggestion?
Sunday, January 01, 2006
New Year!
The weather forecast yesterday morning was promising light snow, followed by rain, and freezing conditions for the last day of 2005 in NY City. Although all this turned out to be true by the middle of the afternoon, the day actually ended up quite differently, with milder than expected temperature, and not even a strong wind typical of this city. Going out, therefore, was not an hassle at all.
The party I attended went well. The company was small (we were all mature guests), but well amalgamated, intimate, and cheerful, with a variety of food, drinks, and plentiful goodies that made the evening fly by very quickly. The midnight famous "dropping of the ball" at Times Square was watched on TV while sipping a perfectly chilled Italian "Asti spumante".
Getting back home was also quite easy and expeditious. At 2 am the traffic was flowing nicely along the avenues, and many revelers were pleasantly walking enjoying the clement weather, while working out the effect of the evening glut.
Good bye 2005....and welcome 2006, with all of our propositions, hopes and dreams!
The party I attended went well. The company was small (we were all mature guests), but well amalgamated, intimate, and cheerful, with a variety of food, drinks, and plentiful goodies that made the evening fly by very quickly. The midnight famous "dropping of the ball" at Times Square was watched on TV while sipping a perfectly chilled Italian "Asti spumante".
Getting back home was also quite easy and expeditious. At 2 am the traffic was flowing nicely along the avenues, and many revelers were pleasantly walking enjoying the clement weather, while working out the effect of the evening glut.
Good bye 2005....and welcome 2006, with all of our propositions, hopes and dreams!
Thursday, December 29, 2005
First round.....
The Christmas holiday went by quickly, and was enjoyable overall, although, it didn't start well for me. On the eve of the 24th, unexpectedly, I had to cope with a small incident.
At 6 pm, as I was exiting my apartment with hands full of stuff, the door closed behind me accidentally, while I didn't have my keys in hand. No matter, I thought.....the master key available in the building could be used to solve this small inconvenience, but I was sorely mistaken!
There was only a 'relief' doorman on duty, who did not have access to the needed key, and, the solution turned out to be a lengthy and costly one. Even a friend of mine that has access to my apartment happened to be out of town. The only alternative I was offered was to wait for the super's backup man that had all keys with him, to come in from his home, 1 1/2 hour away, which he offered to do when called. Needless to say, in addition to the annoyance, I was late for my dinner appointment and frustrated! As I discovered post facto, there was a better and quicker solution, if the doorman had followed the instructions left by the superintendent, but didn't!
Let's hope that the second round of New Year festivities go a bit smoother.
At 6 pm, as I was exiting my apartment with hands full of stuff, the door closed behind me accidentally, while I didn't have my keys in hand. No matter, I thought.....the master key available in the building could be used to solve this small inconvenience, but I was sorely mistaken!
There was only a 'relief' doorman on duty, who did not have access to the needed key, and, the solution turned out to be a lengthy and costly one. Even a friend of mine that has access to my apartment happened to be out of town. The only alternative I was offered was to wait for the super's backup man that had all keys with him, to come in from his home, 1 1/2 hour away, which he offered to do when called. Needless to say, in addition to the annoyance, I was late for my dinner appointment and frustrated! As I discovered post facto, there was a better and quicker solution, if the doorman had followed the instructions left by the superintendent, but didn't!
Let's hope that the second round of New Year festivities go a bit smoother.
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
Friday, December 23, 2005
Season's Greetings!
The rush is ongoing everywhere in NY city, especially since the trasportation strike that has affected us all for a couple of days, just ended. However, I feel pretty comfortable because I'm almost finished with all I need to do before tomorrow night. I've written to everyone on my holiday list, I've answered the ones I didn't expect to receive, but did, purchased and wrapped the gifts to be made, and made the necessary phone calls, expected by tradition by the European relatives and friends.
Now, I've got to straighten out my desk and my apartment, which are both in a bit of a mess, and prepare myself to enjoy the upcoming holidays. I am always a guest at friends' homes for Christmas eve and day, and even Hanukkah. Many a year I have hosted a New Year's Eve party, but this time I am a guest even at such an affair. Thank goodness it takes place in town and I don't have to travel long distance for it (have done enough traveling this year....!).
Soooo.....all there is to do is to wish everyone HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Now, I've got to straighten out my desk and my apartment, which are both in a bit of a mess, and prepare myself to enjoy the upcoming holidays. I am always a guest at friends' homes for Christmas eve and day, and even Hanukkah. Many a year I have hosted a New Year's Eve party, but this time I am a guest even at such an affair. Thank goodness it takes place in town and I don't have to travel long distance for it (have done enough traveling this year....!).
Soooo.....all there is to do is to wish everyone HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Monday, December 19, 2005
Party time
Yesterday I attended a lovely party for a long term friend who just turned 98! Her real name is Angela, but she is known by all as Lina (abbreviation of Angelina).
She originates from Italy, but has been a resident of the U.S. since she was 9 years old. She is the mother of two, the grandmother of four, and the great grandmother of 10! I consider her like a second mother – she married the same year as mine did, and I met her almost half a century ago, just before mine passed away still young.
For a variety of reasons most of her grand and great grandchildren could not be with us at this party, but close relatives and friends were present, and this gathering turned out to be one of mature participants, more or less within the same age group. The large banquet table was filled with foods and goods of all sorts, lovingly prepared and presented by her daughter and son in law, who hosted, as usual, the celebration. The former has wonderful taste in decorating the settings and the house, while her husband (almost ready for retirement) has taken up experimenting with cooking, which he is great at, enjoys very much and is successfully in doing.
The remarkable woman we celebrated yesterday worked hard throughout, and dedicated her entire life to family and friends, who now are willing to travel long distances to join her in celebrating her birthday. She still displays a sense of humor and such a youthful voice that could be the envy of young people. Right on, dear Lina, I am looking forward to your 100th!
She originates from Italy, but has been a resident of the U.S. since she was 9 years old. She is the mother of two, the grandmother of four, and the great grandmother of 10! I consider her like a second mother – she married the same year as mine did, and I met her almost half a century ago, just before mine passed away still young.
For a variety of reasons most of her grand and great grandchildren could not be with us at this party, but close relatives and friends were present, and this gathering turned out to be one of mature participants, more or less within the same age group. The large banquet table was filled with foods and goods of all sorts, lovingly prepared and presented by her daughter and son in law, who hosted, as usual, the celebration. The former has wonderful taste in decorating the settings and the house, while her husband (almost ready for retirement) has taken up experimenting with cooking, which he is great at, enjoys very much and is successfully in doing.
The remarkable woman we celebrated yesterday worked hard throughout, and dedicated her entire life to family and friends, who now are willing to travel long distances to join her in celebrating her birthday. She still displays a sense of humor and such a youthful voice that could be the envy of young people. Right on, dear Lina, I am looking forward to your 100th!
Friday, December 09, 2005
Sunday, December 04, 2005
First snow
It's Sunday and there is not a sound to be heard here. What a blessing to feel cozy in the warmth of one's own home,... but my thoughts go out to the less fortunate around the world, where lack of shelter, or comforts, or natural disaster can make life quite difficult.
Friday, November 25, 2005
Home for the holidays
The last few days in Tirana were very hectic. As usual, the meetings I wish could take place soon after my arrival always get postponed (procrastination is exercised a lot in Europe!), and I invariably find myself scrambling to squeeze in a lot at the end of every trip.
I experienced the same situation in Italy, also last month, during my brief stay there. Contacts do not promptly return calls for appointments, and they are surprised when I inform them that I may not have extra time for our meetings, which I try to book as much as possible way ahead of my departure from the States.
The first flight out of Tirana for Milan, Italy, is at 5:45am. I was able to just rest 2 hours before heading for the airport at 3:45am. I knew it was going to be a long, long day to get home, due to Delta airline changes for the transatlantic crossing. The direct flight from Milan to JFK that usually takes 8 ½ hours was suppressed on the day of my return and I was rerouted through Atlanta, where I had to spend another 5 hours for the flight to New York, also delayed because of the Thanksgiving weekend heavy traffic. Bottom line: with the time difference from Europe, I was on the go for a full 24 hours!
Due to the above changes, my luggage was also affected. It could not be checked all the way to destination, and I had to recheck it also in Atlanta, which became the entry point in the U.S. and where I had to go through passport control. Thank goodness for the comfort of the business lounges during my lay over in Milan and Atlanta, where I could grab some food and drinks, and make some phone calls, although I felt quite sleepy!
Found New York extremely chilly and windy, but the ride into the city was swift due to the light traffic – it was midnight after all! A few good hours of sleep were finally a blessing, and by 1pm I was able to join some friends, who were expecting me for the traditional holiday dinner on Thanksgiving day.
I experienced the same situation in Italy, also last month, during my brief stay there. Contacts do not promptly return calls for appointments, and they are surprised when I inform them that I may not have extra time for our meetings, which I try to book as much as possible way ahead of my departure from the States.
The first flight out of Tirana for Milan, Italy, is at 5:45am. I was able to just rest 2 hours before heading for the airport at 3:45am. I knew it was going to be a long, long day to get home, due to Delta airline changes for the transatlantic crossing. The direct flight from Milan to JFK that usually takes 8 ½ hours was suppressed on the day of my return and I was rerouted through Atlanta, where I had to spend another 5 hours for the flight to New York, also delayed because of the Thanksgiving weekend heavy traffic. Bottom line: with the time difference from Europe, I was on the go for a full 24 hours!
Due to the above changes, my luggage was also affected. It could not be checked all the way to destination, and I had to recheck it also in Atlanta, which became the entry point in the U.S. and where I had to go through passport control. Thank goodness for the comfort of the business lounges during my lay over in Milan and Atlanta, where I could grab some food and drinks, and make some phone calls, although I felt quite sleepy!
Found New York extremely chilly and windy, but the ride into the city was swift due to the light traffic – it was midnight after all! A few good hours of sleep were finally a blessing, and by 1pm I was able to join some friends, who were expecting me for the traditional holiday dinner on Thanksgiving day.
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Work practices
I needed some electrical work done in the apartment I use and decided to call on the owner of a company that served me well a couple of years ago. He not only remembered me well (Albanians have a phenomenal memory!), but responded promptly to my call, although he is a very busy guy. Notwithstanding the ongoing energy crisis, his men are working all over the city and at all hours.
He gave a quick look at my needs and without taking any measurements or making any notes, he promised to send an electrician as soon as possible. The young guy that was dispatched, also multilingual, is a conscientious worker , ready to please me . All this implies that no real planning was done ahead for the entire job; decisions are made, by consulting the client, on the spot on “how” the job should be done, but, unfortunately, this may lead to some lack of supplies during the course of the job, as I forecasted, and ....indeed it happened!
However, this way of working seems to be a local habit: both boss and workers take what it comes with it in stride. It’s not an efficient use of time, which may create also some chaotic situations affecting the clients, but these service providers feel very busy, and they get around doing what needs to be done, very politely and usually with a smile on their faces.
I had a similar experience a week ago when I arranged for two men to come and install some heavy furniture, which I had shipped from Italy earlier in the month.
They both came, armed with electric drill and other tools, and they asked me for a picture of what the piece should look like when mounted. I tried to point them to the various pieces and the hardware that was part of it, but they were fumbling around and were not paying much attention to what I was saying, trying to figure out where to start.
After all, I was present at the dismantling, and a few minutes of attention would have avoided having to redo some installation steps that they eagerly took when they disregarded my suggestions on the matter. When they finally realized their mistake, they smiled graciously and humbly acknowledged that my input was correct. It not possible to get angry at such behavior!
He gave a quick look at my needs and without taking any measurements or making any notes, he promised to send an electrician as soon as possible. The young guy that was dispatched, also multilingual, is a conscientious worker , ready to please me . All this implies that no real planning was done ahead for the entire job; decisions are made, by consulting the client, on the spot on “how” the job should be done, but, unfortunately, this may lead to some lack of supplies during the course of the job, as I forecasted, and ....indeed it happened!
However, this way of working seems to be a local habit: both boss and workers take what it comes with it in stride. It’s not an efficient use of time, which may create also some chaotic situations affecting the clients, but these service providers feel very busy, and they get around doing what needs to be done, very politely and usually with a smile on their faces.
I had a similar experience a week ago when I arranged for two men to come and install some heavy furniture, which I had shipped from Italy earlier in the month.
They both came, armed with electric drill and other tools, and they asked me for a picture of what the piece should look like when mounted. I tried to point them to the various pieces and the hardware that was part of it, but they were fumbling around and were not paying much attention to what I was saying, trying to figure out where to start.
After all, I was present at the dismantling, and a few minutes of attention would have avoided having to redo some installation steps that they eagerly took when they disregarded my suggestions on the matter. When they finally realized their mistake, they smiled graciously and humbly acknowledged that my input was correct. It not possible to get angry at such behavior!
Wednesday, November 09, 2005
Problem solving
The energy crisis in Albania has gotten worst in the past week. The hours of blackout have increased on a daily basis, and the times when there is lack of service have also changed. More than 6 straights hours without electricity (from early morning to early afternoon) seems now to be the norm, followed by one hour when one could cook something for a late lunch, and then everything is off again for another 2 hours, at least. Sometimes, in the evenings electricity may also go off again, unexpectedly, for shorter periods of time. The newly elected government is scrambling for solutions, but even buying extra power from neighboring countries is not easily accomplished all of a sudden. Planning, planning, planning is the key….!
After about one or two hours at the most that electricity is off, a water shortage comes into play. The pumps pushing the water up to the tanks on the roofs cannot work and everyone turns to the supply that, individually gathered in large bottles and containers, is forever present in every Albanian bathroom and kitchen.
People have to adapt somehow to all of the above, and they do. They are so used to these situations for years now, although they are slightly improving, that they shrug their heads and mumble sadly …”this is Albania”! The visitors that lodge at hotels or the casual guest that stays only briefly here, are not really affected by these predicaments because the business community, as I previously explained, have their own generators that take over and cover the needs.
I, living in a rented apartment, although in a new modern building in the city center, have to cope like everyone else. I switched to showering late at night, and I know housewives are doing the same with their laundry too. By morning one can see, on a lot of balconies, their wash, breezing in the wind that is barely perceptible in this city (see picture below). By noon the sun usually comes out from under the clouds and it shines beautifully, but, as it goes down, the warmth of midday disappears very quickly, and, being almost winter time with short days, it’s dark and quite cool by 4pm.
Yesterday, I had an additional problem that required a quick, but no easy solution here. All l of a sudden in the middle of the afternoon my house phone was unusable. I felt lost without my lifeline to the outside world!! Thanks to my cell unit I was able to contact some friends for help. Although they tried to report the problem by calling, we all agreed that, due to the late hour, nothing would be accomplished until the morning.
And so it was. We met at 9am and personally went to the main office of AlbTelecom. I know, from a previous similar experience a couple of years ago, that it may take a week to get a phone restored here. Sure enough, the ladies at the front desk, were not very helpful. First they vented that the line may have been cut for lack of payment, then, without checking anything or speaking to anyone in service, they told us that I would have to wait (as per procedure!) until Monday.
When they understood that the answer was totally unacceptable to me, they directed us to the payment office in another building. There, finally, we found a lady, who took at heart the case, confirmed that the bills were regularly paid, and personally accompanied us to a third building, at the servicemen’s office. The scene there was no better that the first one we encountered: a lady customer was being yelled at by a supervisor, while she was complaining that her phone line was not working for a week!
Fortunately for me, and the judicious presentation of my case on the part of my friend, I got the attention of an employee, who confirmed that the problem may have been caused by work performed in the area the day before, which I had suspected anyway. He called the serviceman in the field, and asked me to go back home and deal with him directly. He assured me he would be there, and he was. I was pleased that I could talk to him directly since he spoke also Italian. He excused himself for not being able to stay and deal with the problem personally since he had to attend a funeral, but he made sure that another technician came soon after and promptly brought my problem to a satisfactory solution. Lucky me!
After about one or two hours at the most that electricity is off, a water shortage comes into play. The pumps pushing the water up to the tanks on the roofs cannot work and everyone turns to the supply that, individually gathered in large bottles and containers, is forever present in every Albanian bathroom and kitchen.
People have to adapt somehow to all of the above, and they do. They are so used to these situations for years now, although they are slightly improving, that they shrug their heads and mumble sadly …”this is Albania”! The visitors that lodge at hotels or the casual guest that stays only briefly here, are not really affected by these predicaments because the business community, as I previously explained, have their own generators that take over and cover the needs.
I, living in a rented apartment, although in a new modern building in the city center, have to cope like everyone else. I switched to showering late at night, and I know housewives are doing the same with their laundry too. By morning one can see, on a lot of balconies, their wash, breezing in the wind that is barely perceptible in this city (see picture below). By noon the sun usually comes out from under the clouds and it shines beautifully, but, as it goes down, the warmth of midday disappears very quickly, and, being almost winter time with short days, it’s dark and quite cool by 4pm.
Yesterday, I had an additional problem that required a quick, but no easy solution here. All l of a sudden in the middle of the afternoon my house phone was unusable. I felt lost without my lifeline to the outside world!! Thanks to my cell unit I was able to contact some friends for help. Although they tried to report the problem by calling, we all agreed that, due to the late hour, nothing would be accomplished until the morning.
And so it was. We met at 9am and personally went to the main office of AlbTelecom. I know, from a previous similar experience a couple of years ago, that it may take a week to get a phone restored here. Sure enough, the ladies at the front desk, were not very helpful. First they vented that the line may have been cut for lack of payment, then, without checking anything or speaking to anyone in service, they told us that I would have to wait (as per procedure!) until Monday.
When they understood that the answer was totally unacceptable to me, they directed us to the payment office in another building. There, finally, we found a lady, who took at heart the case, confirmed that the bills were regularly paid, and personally accompanied us to a third building, at the servicemen’s office. The scene there was no better that the first one we encountered: a lady customer was being yelled at by a supervisor, while she was complaining that her phone line was not working for a week!
Fortunately for me, and the judicious presentation of my case on the part of my friend, I got the attention of an employee, who confirmed that the problem may have been caused by work performed in the area the day before, which I had suspected anyway. He called the serviceman in the field, and asked me to go back home and deal with him directly. He assured me he would be there, and he was. I was pleased that I could talk to him directly since he spoke also Italian. He excused himself for not being able to stay and deal with the problem personally since he had to attend a funeral, but he made sure that another technician came soon after and promptly brought my problem to a satisfactory solution. Lucky me!
Tuesday, November 08, 2005
Sunday, November 06, 2005
Saturday, November 05, 2005
Book fair
Annually there is a book fair in Tirana and it’s held at the “pyramid” (see picture below). This modern structure in the newest part of the city was built as a museum dedicated to the ex dictator, Henver Hoxha, during his life time. Since then, it’s used for large exhibits, or gatherings due its enormous size, and it also has been abusively used by children, who slide down its outside walls that lend themselves to this kind of fun. After all, it’s located in the middle of one of the many city parks!
I remember being quite impressed by the shape and magnitude of this construction when, in 1996, I was a guest at a huge public Mother’s Day celebration organized in it. A beautiful show was offered by performing children of all ages, followed by some speakers. I also remember the long walk I had to take to go center stage when, unexpectedly, I was asked to be an active participant by giving my comments about the whole affair. Unbeknown to me though was the fact that the show was televised, thus I was surprised to see myself on the tube that evening while having dinner with friends.
Today, after lunching with a well known Albanian historian at an Italian restaurant, we strolled to the park and entered the pyramid to see the book fair. I was impressed by the massive amount of exhibits and stands, displaying, on three floors, an enormity of published material of all sorts and for every taste. This affair lasts a few days and it attracts people also from neighboring countries. Entire school groups were also being ushered in, while I was there, and attended a special presentation of a modern version of a republished dictionary of a famous late author, which now includes additional entries taken from ancient languages. Interesting was the debate over the pro and con of the “orientalization” of the added material.
Many were the publishing houses represented in the fair, and there were loads of people roaming around, but I did not see a lot of sales taking place. The prices are still too high here for the general Albanian public, who is, however, a very keen reader and always ready to search for new and interesting material. That’s probably why dozens of daily newspapers do a booming business instead in this city.
I remember being quite impressed by the shape and magnitude of this construction when, in 1996, I was a guest at a huge public Mother’s Day celebration organized in it. A beautiful show was offered by performing children of all ages, followed by some speakers. I also remember the long walk I had to take to go center stage when, unexpectedly, I was asked to be an active participant by giving my comments about the whole affair. Unbeknown to me though was the fact that the show was televised, thus I was surprised to see myself on the tube that evening while having dinner with friends.
Today, after lunching with a well known Albanian historian at an Italian restaurant, we strolled to the park and entered the pyramid to see the book fair. I was impressed by the massive amount of exhibits and stands, displaying, on three floors, an enormity of published material of all sorts and for every taste. This affair lasts a few days and it attracts people also from neighboring countries. Entire school groups were also being ushered in, while I was there, and attended a special presentation of a modern version of a republished dictionary of a famous late author, which now includes additional entries taken from ancient languages. Interesting was the debate over the pro and con of the “orientalization” of the added material.
Many were the publishing houses represented in the fair, and there were loads of people roaming around, but I did not see a lot of sales taking place. The prices are still too high here for the general Albanian public, who is, however, a very keen reader and always ready to search for new and interesting material. That’s probably why dozens of daily newspapers do a booming business instead in this city.
Friday, November 04, 2005
Thursday, November 03, 2005
A feast and a crisis
Today it’s a public holiday in Albania. It’s the day of Big Bajram that ends the month long period of Ramadan, during which time Muslims abstain from eating during the day time hours. Here, in the capital of Tirana, this feast is announced by the sound of drums that are played by a couple of men parading throughout the city, while the children, off from school, are having fun igniting fireworks here and there. Interestingly, during this stay and contrary to previous experiences of mine while in town, I no longer hear the call to prayer broadcast from the local mosque’s minaret five times daily. I’ll have to investigate why this change has taken place. In the past, the sound of these calls were a point of reference: there was no need to look at the clock to find out the time of day!
All government offices, banks, large stores, and even foreign embassies are closed in observance of today’s holiday. However, small, family type businesses, mama and papa stores are always opened every day of the year until the wee hours of the night. Even the main post office in the center of the city is always functioning until late in the evenings, Sundays included.
In the past few days, the energy crisis in this country has become more acute! The lack of rain has decreased the water supply in the dams, and thus the hydropower. Electricity has been shut off 4 to 5 hours a day, usually from 9am to 2pm. Life and work, therefore, have to be re-arranged accordingly to offset this deficiency. Today, exceptionally, the lights did not go off in the morning, probably to allow cooking for the holiday (in Albania the main meal of the day is usually at lunch, although consumed late), but, it was then cut at 2pm and did not resume until 5pm.
At home, it’s not easy to cope with lack of light when the days are shorter after the change back to standard time, but the myriad of café’s, bars, fast food places, and restaurants continue to do business with the help of large generators, usually placed outside of the premises, nearby on the street. They are automatically switched on when electricity fails, and they produce a humming noise so familiar to all that no one pays any attention to it anymore. What amazes me is how the people sitting at the tables (mostly outdoors) can cope with this nearby clatter and the polluted air that this equipment churns out. They totally ignore the circumstances, which, unfortunately, include their heavy smoking habits!
The news today is that the government is opening negotiations with neighboring countries for the purchase of additional power, which is critical especially in view of the upcoming winter, but there seems to be shortage everywhere else. This capital does not yet have an alternative solution to this shortage, such as gas production and distribution system. Only small, portable tanks can be purchased for home consumption, and a lot of people do use this facility for cooking nowadays, so that a hot meal is always assured. I am sure they had a special one today!
All government offices, banks, large stores, and even foreign embassies are closed in observance of today’s holiday. However, small, family type businesses, mama and papa stores are always opened every day of the year until the wee hours of the night. Even the main post office in the center of the city is always functioning until late in the evenings, Sundays included.
In the past few days, the energy crisis in this country has become more acute! The lack of rain has decreased the water supply in the dams, and thus the hydropower. Electricity has been shut off 4 to 5 hours a day, usually from 9am to 2pm. Life and work, therefore, have to be re-arranged accordingly to offset this deficiency. Today, exceptionally, the lights did not go off in the morning, probably to allow cooking for the holiday (in Albania the main meal of the day is usually at lunch, although consumed late), but, it was then cut at 2pm and did not resume until 5pm.
At home, it’s not easy to cope with lack of light when the days are shorter after the change back to standard time, but the myriad of café’s, bars, fast food places, and restaurants continue to do business with the help of large generators, usually placed outside of the premises, nearby on the street. They are automatically switched on when electricity fails, and they produce a humming noise so familiar to all that no one pays any attention to it anymore. What amazes me is how the people sitting at the tables (mostly outdoors) can cope with this nearby clatter and the polluted air that this equipment churns out. They totally ignore the circumstances, which, unfortunately, include their heavy smoking habits!
The news today is that the government is opening negotiations with neighboring countries for the purchase of additional power, which is critical especially in view of the upcoming winter, but there seems to be shortage everywhere else. This capital does not yet have an alternative solution to this shortage, such as gas production and distribution system. Only small, portable tanks can be purchased for home consumption, and a lot of people do use this facility for cooking nowadays, so that a hot meal is always assured. I am sure they had a special one today!
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